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Many apps have startup activities you can manage. This includes launching an app when you log in and components of apps launching to run in the background continuously. From a security perspective, you should know what’s launching and occasionally check to see whether anything new has appeared that you’re unaware of.

Login items

Apps can add themselves to a list of items that open when you log in to your account. You can also add items manually. This Login Items list is unique to the current user logged in. It’s located in System Settings > General > Login Items & Extensions.

Your Mac uses a notification to let you know whenever an app adds itself or a component to the Login Items list.

You can take several actions on the items in this list:

  • Control-click/right-click: This reveals the Show in Finder option. Choose it, and the enclosing folder appears with the item selected.
  • Remove: Select one or more apps and click the minus button to remove them. There’s no prompt—it just happens.
  • Add: Click the plus button and then select one or more apps, documents, or network servers to open or mount at launch.

With Siri AI active in Golden Gate, the top item is Ask Siri, as with some other contextual menus, where you can ask or type in something like “What is Pastebot?” to know what a particular login item does or is. Unfortunately, you can’t just ask “What is this?” even though it’s on a contextual menu—Siri just replies with details about Login Items.

If you want to prevent all login items from launching, you can do so temporarily in one of two ways:

  • With a required user login: On the login screen, hold down the Shift key when clicking the login button. Keep holding down Shift until you see the Dock appear.
  • With an automatically logged-in user: Restart your Mac. Hold down the Shift key when the progress bar starts and release after you see the desktop appear.

Background activity

macOS also gives you insight into and control over components of apps that are set to run in the background. First, you’re alerted when an app installs them.

Then, you can find a list of these items in System Settings > General > Login Items & Extensions under the Background App Activity heading (or App Background Activity in Tahoe and earlier). The list provides additional information under each item that can be useful. In Golden Gate, the labels explain the item’s status, noting whether it is currently running in the background. If it ran in the background within the last week, the label notes how long ago that was.

In Tahoe, the label provided one of three pieces of information: how many components the background item represented (typically “1 item”), how many accounts it affected on multi-account Macs with an item breakdown (“5 items: 2 items affect all users” as one example), or whether it was from an unknown developer, typically the case when the app that installed it was no longer installed and the background item was orphaned.

Items that are installed without the full information required by Apple are shown with a magnifying glass button. Click it, and it opens the component in the system or user Library folder where it lives.

While you can’t remove background items via this interface, you can enable and disable them. When you disable background items, you’re prompted to authenticate with Touch ID or your password.

Launch components are divided into daemons, which run at system startup before an account login, and agents, which launch after login. They’re found in folders named LaunchAgents and LaunchDaemons in /System/Library/ and ~/Library/.

If you want more insight into and control over what’s automatically running on any release of macOS, do yourself a favor and get Lingon X. The app shows everything that launches automatically—apps, scripts, daemons, agents, and the like. A free version lets you view all that; paying $23.99 unlocks editing and saving.

Automatic login

When you set up a new Mac, one of the first things you are prompted to do is create a user account for yourself by picking a username and a password. (Your Mac can have many such accounts, but it must have at least one.) By default, macOS logs in that initial user account automatically when you turn on or restart your Mac. That means you can get right to work without entering a password, and it’s the most convenient arrangement for Macs with a single user—especially if the Mac is kept in a secure place.

However, if anyone else (including a thief!) can get to your Mac, that automatic login becomes a problem, because your keychain unlocks automatically (see how the Mac keychain works) and all the files on your Mac are readily available.

If there’s a risk of someone gaining access to your Mac, you should disable this option by selecting Off. It’s found in System Settings > Users & Groups as a pop-up menu next to “Automatically log in as.”

Automatic login is incompatible with the FileVault security model and can’t be enabled when FileVault is turned on, which is by default starting in macOS 26. See how to turn on FileVault.

Which apps are allowed to launch

Apple hides their powerful Gatekeeper technology behind a menu selection. Gatekeeper prevents malicious software from easily taking root on a Mac, even on a naïve user’s computer (not you, to be sure). You can find the setting “Allow applications downloaded from” in System Settings > Privacy & Security. The options are App Store & Known Developers (the default) and App Store, which is “App Store Only” but not labeled that way explicitly.

I recommend leaving App Store & Known Developers selected unless you’re setting up a computer for someone who needs more handholding and protection. For a full explanation of how Gatekeeper works, see how Gatekeeper decides which Mac apps can run.

Limiting your apps to the App Store may also be the right choice at a very high level of risk, where people or organizations may expend substantial resources to subvert someone’s computer. Few people fall into that category.

You can select a different option whenever you like, but it only affects apps launching after that point. Switch from App Store & Known Developers to App Store, and you can still launch any third-party apps you had previously run, but no new non-App Store apps will validate.

If you have the launch option set to App Store and attempt to mount a disk image with a third-party app, or open a downloaded third-party app or one copied from a disk image you’ve approved, a Mac first tells you why it can’t mount or launch it.

However, if you then return to the “Allow applications from” location in your version of macOS, you see a helpful Open Anyway button along with an explanation of why the app didn’t launch in the Finder. That’s a little informal, but it makes sense: you made this choice, so why not?

An administrative macOS user can lock settings to App Store here, and a regular macOS user won’t be able to override it. See how to set up safe user accounts on a shared Mac.

Manage system extensions

Apple lets developers extend the system with, er, the appropriately named system extensions, which run with relatively few privileges, but give developers controlled capabilities. Apple mediates access to system extensions through System Settings > Privacy & Security.

Up until a few years ago, Apple allowed a deeper way to modify core functions, but removed that method seemingly because of security concerns.

If you have no extensions installed and never install software that requires them, you will never see extra information there, and you don’t have to interact with those parts of the pane.

If you have an Apple silicon Mac, you’re blocked from using system extensions without first enabling Reduced Security for your system as described in how macOS protects its own system files. Read that first: the mode changes your Mac’s risk profile.

After you run the installer, a note appears with a button in System Settings > Privacy & Security. Click Details and you see a list of all system extensions.

Note that all the switches are disabled—you can’t take action here. Click OK, and, despite not seeming to have done anything, a system extensions cache rebuilding dialog appears. Finally, you’re typically prompted to restart in a non-modal dialog: you can’t opt out of restarting.

Because Apple requires no standard for removing a system extension, you could wind up with old ones littering your Mac and no sure way of what to do next. Sequoia added a distinct improvement in System Settings > General > Login Items & Extensions. You can view the list using By App or By Category. In both cases, the list mixes simpler macOS extenders (like additions to the contextual menu in the Finder or Quick Look) with system extensions. To disable an extension, click the info button for an app or a category, like Fantastical or Network Extensions, and then disable it.

However, if you want to uninstall a system extension, first choose By Category. Then, for a category with system extensions, like Camera Extensions, a More button appears for each item. Click that to reveal a menu from which you can choose Delete Extension. You’re warned when you disable or delete an extension that the extension may continue to operate until after a restart.

If you can’t find the item you’re looking for in that list, open Terminal and enter systemextensionsctl list and press Return.

The resulting output shows all system extensions and where you need to go to find them in the Extensions list. This list tells you exactly which Extensions category contains each component.

to find extensions’ configuration location.

Start by trying to find an app’s uninstaller or instruction on its website. Failing that, turn to Lingon X to dig out old agents, daemons, and extensions. It may not be able to help with all system extensions.

When you delete a file by putting it in the Trash and then emptying the Trash, you might think it’s somehow gone forever. But file deletion ironically doesn’t erase the file from your drive. It simply makes a change to the disk’s catalog indicating that the space occupied by that file is available and can be overwritten with something else if and when necessary.

As a result, even if you’ve deleted a file, someone using file-recovery software could potentially undelete it later, as long as no other file has been stored in exactly the same spot since then. (That someone may be you if you accidentally deleted the file and don’t have a backup.)

Hard drives may eventually overwrite the deleted file’s freed-up storage with new data, but that isn’t a guarantee that the previous file can’t be recovered. With specialized equipment, it’s sometimes possible to retrieve old versions of files that have been overwritten one or more times with new data. It’s painstaking, technically challenging, and expensive work—which means it would happen only when the stakes are quite high—but it can be done.

With an SSD, it’s even harder to ensure data is gone for good: SSDs use wear leveling, which spreads your data out all over an SSD, as opposed to the specific physical locations that are mapped on an HDD. Each memory cell in an SSD has a maximum number of times in its usable life that it can be erased and rewritten before it fails. Wear leveling ensures that the last previously written-to location is the least likely to be overwritten soon relative to any other location that’s available on the drive. SSDs also employ trim, which tells the controller that a given location is no longer able to be erased. With even more expensive gear than required for HDDs, data can be retrieved to an alarming extent from SSDs.

The good news is that with an Apple silicon Mac, all data on the startup volume is also encrypted by default. You only need to consider external SSDs that you use for storage.

If you’re still using external hard drives, you could conceivably securely delete removed file portions, but Apple dropped a feature for that years ago. However, you can encrypt external HDDs and you can securely erase them before getting rid of them using Disk Utility:

  1. Open Disk Utility, select the drive or volume, and click Erase.
  2. Click Security Options.
  3. Move the slider to the desired level of security and click OK, then click Erase. The slider has four notches:
    • Fastest: Regular erase, which doesn’t overwrite the data.
    • One-pass: Overwrite the data once with zeroes.
    • Three-pass: Overwrite the data three times, twice with random data and once with non-random data.
    • Most Secure: Overwrite the data seven times, meeting a U.S. Department of Defense standard.

The three-pass and Most Secure options can take a long time, and are necessary only in extreme cases, but if you want to make it all but impossible for someone to recover a file, you can.

Have the drive destroyed instead

Removable and external SSDs and HDDs can be sent out for secure destruction to outfits that receive licenses or certifications from various organizations. This includes some electronics recyclers who will use a drive crusher right in front of you. Some will give you a certificate that confirms the drive was destroyed. This is bad for the environment, but may be a valid choice if you have any concern about non-FileVault-encrypted drives’ data.

Apple Pay on a second volume

Apple allows Macs with a Secure Enclave and Touch ID enabled to store Apple Pay card information, so you can make purchases in apps and via Safari directly with your fingerprint. There’s no need to use a separate device. Setting up Apple Pay is straightforward, and handled via System Settings > Wallet & Apple Pay.

The security situation you may encounter, however, is when you set up Apple Pay either with another account on the same Mac or on an external startup drive! In the former case, Apple warns you in a notification. In the latter case, when you restart from your primary startup volume, your Mac also alerts you.

I saw both the above errors after restarting from an external bootable clone, because macOS interpreted both conditions as true.

Whether you set it up with a separate macOS user or an external volume, you can reset Apple Pay to work with your current main account with your current volume. However, it involves several steps:

  1. Open System Settings > Wallet & Apple Pay.
  2. Click the Add Card button.
  3. The Mac prompts you about changing back. When prompted, enter your password or use Touch ID to proceed.
  4. Select the cards you want to use and click Next.
  5. For each card, you will have to confirm details, such as entering your Apple Account password or the security code on the card. You will also have to accept terms and conditions for many cards, and receive two-factor authentication for some.

Even if Apple Pay is disabled, you can still use it in Safari by approving purchases on your iPhone or Apple Watch. Enable this option in Safari > Settings > Advanced, where you can select “Allow websites to check for Apple Pay and Apple Card.”

Advanced Data Protection (ADP) is an option to enable end-to-end encryption (E2EE) for iCloud-stored data from your Mac, iPhone, or iPad. ADP covers nearly all the data for which Apple previously lacked an E2EE option. (See how to share files with end-to-end encryption for a full definition.)

You can see a full list of the items that are encrypted at rest (on servers using keys Apple possesses) and those with E2EE enabled in iCloud on Apple’s website, both with and without ADP enabled. Without ADP, these items remain encrypted at rest only: iCloud backups, Freeform (Apple’s collaborative drawing tool), iCloud Drive, Apple Invites, Messages in iCloud, Notes, Photos, Reminders, Safari bookmarks, Siri Shortcuts, Voice Memos, and Wallet passes. Enabling ADP adds E2EE to all of them. (Apple Invites has exceptions; see note on the page linked just above.)

Email, contacts, and calendar entries can only be encrypted at rest due to interoperability with third-party services and apps.

I recommend enabling ADP if you qualify, as it provides a strong additional layer of protection for private data that you might consider “local” if you never access it via iCloud.com.

What ADP requires

ADP requires two-factor authentication on your Apple Account, which most accounts already have enabled due to Apple’s nearly mandatory policy. You also have to have passcodes on all of your devices—also, nearly universal. One requirement not everyone will have met: iCloud Data Recovery has to be turned on with at least one active contact or an Apple Account Recovery Key.

All your devices must meet minimum system requirements, which nearly every current device exceeds: macOS 13.1 Ventura, iOS 16.2, iPadOS 16.2, tvOS 16.2, watchOS 9.2, and—yes—HomePod 16.2. If you have any associated Windows computers, they must have iCloud for Windows 14.1 or later installed.

Apple says managed Apple Accounts and accounts set up for children cannot enable ADP.

An Apple Account Recovery Key is entirely unrelated to the FileVault Recovery Key. See where to find your FileVault Recovery Key.

Siri AI, Private Cloud Compute and conversations

Apple introduced Siri AI with iOS 27, iPadOS 27 and macOS 27, a more full-featured chatbot version of Siri on devices that support Apple Intelligence. Conversations with Siri are stored in the new Siri app and synced via iCloud. However, these are end-to-end encrypted sync operations, such as what’s used with Messages and iCloud Passwords. You don’t need to enable ADP, as described next.

To provide these enhanced services, Apple may send portions of your queries to what they call Private Cloud Compute. Private Cloud Compute consists of both servers they own and operate and servers in Google Cloud that Apple controls every component of, even though it’s not Apple hardware or in an Apple data center. You can’t prevent these requests from leaving your hardware, but Apple says all queries are encrypted end to end, untraceable back to you, impenetrable to Apple and any partners (even when debugging servers or code), and so forth. This is covered further in what Apple Intelligence, Siri AI and Visual Intelligence actually are.

Turn on ADP

Start by going to the ADP setting section: System Settings (Mac)/Settings (iPhone/iPad) > Account Name > iCloud > Advanced Data Protection. Tap Turn On Advanced Data Protection or click Turn On.

Apple now lets you turn on ADP:

  1. Apple warns you that “you will be responsible for your data recovery.” You have to click or tap the Review Recovery Methods option or Set Up next to an Account Recovery button.
  2. If you have Recovery Contacts, they’re shown. Click or tap Contacts Up to Date if they are or select Update Recovery Contacts if they are not to revise. Then return to step 1.
  3. If you have a Recovery Key, you must enter it and click or tap Next.
  4. With your recovery methods approved, enter your macOS account password or device passcode when prompted.
  5. Finally, you’re told, “Advanced Data Protection is On.” Click Done.

You should also receive an email to your iCloud.com address that tells you ADP was enabled.

If your devices aren’t all running the minimum supported operating system versions, you’ll be told which ones require an update. You can choose to upgrade all devices or remove one or more outdated devices from your account. Go to Settings/System Settings > Account Name, select a device, click or tap Remove from Account, and follow the prompts.

Reach your data on iCloud.com

With ADP enabled, all your data except email, contacts, and calendar entries is encrypted by keys held on your devices. That would appear to count iCloud.com access out. But Apple has a workaround. They allow temporary access using in-browser encryption.

First, you have to let yourself view the data on iCloud.com: go to Settings/System Settings > Account Name > iCloud. On an iPhone or iPad, tap iCloud.com and then Allow Data Access; on a Mac, click Data Access on iCloud.com and enable Allow Data Access. Confirm your choice; in fact, you have to confirm twice.

You can disable non-ADP access via iCloud.com using that setting, too.

With that enabled, here’s how to unlock temporary access:

  1. Visit icloud.com in a browser and log in.
  2. Apple shows a banner that explains that ADP is on and how to proceed.
  3. Select an app, such as Photos.
  4. Apple sends an access request to trusted devices. (If you don’t see the prompt, you can click or tap Request New Access.)
  5. On a trusted device, click or tap Allow Access.
  6. On your trusted devices, a banner appears alerting you that you’ve enabled temporary access.

Data remains accessible for an hour from each request. Each additional data type you want to access may require another permission request and approval unless requested shortly after a previous request.

Data previously unavailable on iCloud, such as Passwords entries and Health data, remains locked on devices.

The Find My exceptions

Until mid-2021, Apple listed Find My (Devices and People) as protected by their keys. When the company started to break out “in transit & on server” and E2EE, it dropped Find My from the iCloud page. Apple then stopped documenting the relationship of Find My with iCloud. That leaves it to me to try to explain.

The Find My Device web app is available at iCloud.com when you log in with two-factor authentication or a passkey. Even if ADP is enabled, you’re not asked to start a secure, device-approved session. Apple uses secure transit and their own keys to pass your location from your devices and those of people in your Family Sharing group who have shared location with you to your iCloud account. There’s no other way for that information to appear.

Apple doesn’t pass information about other people’s location, nor do they provide AirTag and other Find My item positioning, and thus I assume there is device-based E2EE involved in sharing that information among your hardware that Apple doesn’t want to override.

Turn ADP off

Disabling ADP is straightforward. Go to Settings/System Settings > Account Name > iCloud > Advanced Data Protection. Tap Turn Off Advanced Data Protection or click Turn Off. Follow the prompts to confirm you understand you’re removing E2EE protection from many of your synced and stored data.

Apple hides a powerful feature behind a menu in System Settings > Privacy & Security. That menu is the visible part. Behind it, Apple manages a good deal more to protect you against malicious software.

The point of knowing more is twofold: First, to recognize when something’s gone wrong. Second, to bypass protections in the limited cases in which you need to.

Manage app sources

The Gatekeeper feature was introduced years ago, and affects how you install and use software. Gatekeeper examines downloaded apps when they are first launched, including custom installers from a developer. (Apple has a generic installer that most apps rely on.) If you have set your app launch preference to App Store only, macOS tells you that you can’t open a given app. Click Show in Finder to reveal the app.

However, there’s a workaround if you want to be able to open just some of these apps. With Gatekeeper set to App Store only, go to System Settings > Privacy & Security. You will see this message: “‘App Name’ was blocked from use because it is not from an identified developer.” That much we know. But there’s also an Open Anyway button to the right of this message.

Click the button. Once that’s clicked, your Mac launches the app with a dialog that asks you to confirm you really, really want to open it. Click Open to proceed.

This App Store bypass seems clunky, but it’s consistent. If you have locked a Mac account down (for a kid, say, or a client or parent) without administrative permissions to make changes, this workflow for launching a non–App Store app still won’t let them. However, if you’re the captain of your own ship, this is a simpler set of steps than switching your Gatekeeper App Store preference to allow identified developers and then switching it back again.

Gatekeeper can also reject launching an app in these circumstances:

  • The app wasn’t notarized, an extra security check (explained below) that Apple made mandatory years ago.
  • You allow non–App Store apps to launch, but this app is unsigned, which means it hasn’t gone through the extra pass of validation described below, including notarization.
  • The app is or contains known malware or other harmful software, and Apple blocks it from running altogether.
  • Something is wrong with the app, such as it having been tampered with, so it won’t launch, and you will be warned.

Gatekeeper’s point is to prevent apps from running that, more or less, don’t digitally smell right according to multiple characteristics. It is worth understanding app signing and notarization to see what that buys you. If everything’s OK, your Mac launches the software.

Apple software and components always launch unless macOS detects they were tampered with. There’s no step to approve them.

For apps outside the App Store with Gatekeeper set to allow apps from identified developers, you still have one more step: you’re informed the app was downloaded from the internet and told that it was cleared for takeoff, but you must click Open to proceed. This may seem like overkill, but it’s one additional way that Apple ensures you haven’t been tricked into running software you didn’t intend to.

Apple also lets you know when an app is on a disk image instead of copied to your Applications folder, in case the disk image window tries to mislead you about its contents.

But wait! There’s more! If you do not check “Don’t warn me when opening applications on this disk image,” macOS…warns you when you open the application, requiring yet another click of Open.

If the app you try to run contains malware, Apple provides a unique warning, one I’ve never seen, and had to source from an Apple support note. This dialog also lets you report the item to Apple.

App signing and notarization

Each developer who has joined Apple’s $99-per-year Apple Developer Program receives a unique digital certificate that binds their identity with cryptography to prevent tampering and impersonation. When building an app in Apple’s Xcode development environment, the creator can use that certificate to sign the app.

This signature results from feeding the compiled binary version of the app—the actual code package you install and that runs—through a hashing routine, an iterative cryptographic process that produces a modest-length number (the hash) that appears innocuous. However, hashing is designed so that if even a single byte is changed in the entire source material (here, the app)—even if the number 8 becomes the number 9—the resulting hash is dramatically different. With modern hashing algorithms, there’s no way for a malicious party to modify an app, sign it, and get the same signature as the valid app.

Neat, huh? Hashing underpins a shockingly vast part of internet and real-world encryption, including all HTTPS web connections, secure email, and vastly more.

That hash is then countersigned by secret keys tied to certificates only Apple possesses, which lets macOS validate the signature and makes it impossible to forge the hash—otherwise, that would be a gaping loophole.

Notarization is a separate and distinct step that applies both to an app and any third-party components and libraries it makes use of. Notarized apps, non-Apple installers, kernel extensions, and other bits of code have been scanned by Apple for known malware and none was found. But it also includes other security scanning, such as ensuring apps and components are hardened, which means there’s no way for parts of the app to be swapped out by malicious software while they’re running.

The text that appears in the launch dialog for non-App Store apps confirms notarization: “Apple checked it for malicious software and none was detected.”

Apple requires signing and notarization for apps in the App Store and those distributed directly by developers. App Store apps also go through review by human beings for content and purpose, which is separate from these automated scanning and signing operations.

A signed and notarized app doesn’t look any different to us, as users, from an unsigned app (whether notarized in part or whole), but it contains extra data that lets macOS determine:

  • Integrity: Whether the app has been changed since it was built
  • Identity: Which developer created (and signed) an app
  • Access: Which system resources the app may access

Each of these attributes helps to protect your security.

Let’s start with integrity. If an attacker were to modify an app after it was signed—for example, inserting malicious code while it sat on the developer’s web server or even after you started using it—Gatekeeper would notice the change, as the hash wouldn’t match, and it would prevent the app from running.

Gatekeeper always prevents signed apps that have been altered from running, even if they ran fine before.

Next, suppose someone signed up for the Apple Developer Program and started delivering malicious software, signed with their certificate. The identity feature kicks in—once Apple discovers that the developer is distributing dangerous software, Apple can revoke that certificate, telling Gatekeeper not to let any software signed with that certificate launch. Gatekeeper checks Apple’s revocation list every time an app launches to make sure it’s still valid.

A malicious party using a legitimate certificate isn’t a hypothetical situation, though it’s rare in practice. In 2017, a phishing message convinced people to download and open a ZIP file, then launch an app inside it, and further conned them into entering an administrative password. The ne’er-do-wells had signed up for a developer account, and the app was signed. Apple revoked the certificate, defusing its potential.

The third aspect, access, involves system resources such as the keychain. If you grant an app permission to store information in the keychain or access it afterward, you don’t want to have to keep doing so every time you update the app.

But if you install a new version of an app that was signed with the same certificate, Gatekeeper treats it as the “same” app for the purpose of granting access to system resources, and you won’t be prompted for keychain access again.

Conversely, if someone altered the app or gave you an unsigned and therefore unauthorized version, it wouldn’t be able to access your keychain without your permission—in fact, Gatekeeper should prevent it from launching at all, because it won’t pass the signing test.

All of this reduces your risk of inadvertently running malicious software. If an app is not in the App Store and has not been signed and notarized, there is one way to bypass Gatekeeper.

Beware bundled adware

A slimy practice that peaked a few years ago was for download sites to take otherwise safe and trustworthy software from someone else and wrap it in their own custom installer with a type of malware known as adware—which, among other things, displays intrusive ads, even if you block pop-up windows and use ad-blocking browser extensions in your web browser. Here’s how to protect yourself:

  • Avoid free software download sites. If the app isn’t in the Mac App Store, download it directly from the developer. (The sole exception is Setapp, a multi-developer subscription service that has a single app that can install multiple apps for you.)
  • Don’t override Gatekeeper unless you’re sure it’s from an absolutely trustworthy source.
  • If an installer asks if you want to install any extra software (especially if it’s “sponsored”) or browser extensions, or make changes to your browser settings, say no.

While the problem seems to have waned for many years, I still receive scattered emails messages from readers who have installed adware without intending to. Be vigilant about the source of your software.

One of the most unsettling things that can happen to your device and your data is when you are locked out from your computer. It’s rare, and you can prepare against the possibility so that your recovery is quick—or at least feasible, if not fast.

An ounce of prevention saves a kiloton of cure when it comes to accounts and access. If you follow the following advice ahead of time, you can avoid serious downtime and loss of data.

Keep fresh backups

Backups are the strongest protection you can have against theft, destruction, and loss, including “loss of access.”

If you have daily backups of your Mac and attached drives onsite (via Time Machine or third-party software), copies of your startup volume and external drives offsite, active continuous or daily cloud-hosted backups, or use a sync service to ensure multiple copies and a version history of your active documents, losing access to your Mac still has a sting, but you likely will lose very little data, if any.

You could be like me and do all four. But that’s me.

In some cases, you might be locked out of your current Mac, such as with a FileVault failure or the loss of a Recovery Key. In those cases, you can erase the computer and restore from a full backup, putting you right back in business. Or you may be able to use an external drive or synced files to get back to work on another machine—perhaps a borrowed one—while you plot unlocking the Mac you can’t get to.

Macs that support Activation Lock and have it enabled by turning on Find My Mac require that you can log in to your Apple Account to erase the computer. See how to reset a forgotten Mac password.

With an iPhone or iPad, your biggest job is ensuring you have enough storage in your iCloud+ plan to allow iCloud backups. You can also use a Mac for device backups, but that dramatically increases the odds you’ll be out of date and missing data. With automatic iCloud backups enabled and using iCloud Photos, it’s unlikely you would lose any data—at worst, very little.

Where to keep your passwords

You should have a go-to, secure place for all passwords, passkeys, and other login and encryption keys you may need in the event of a disaster, including:

  • Passwords for one or more administrator accounts on your Mac
  • Passcodes for any iPhones or iPads
  • The Recovery Key for macOS’s FileVault; see where to find your FileVault Recovery Key
  • The account name and password or passkey (or hardware security keys) for your Apple Account (or Accounts)
  • The password for your password manager (which may be the sole item you memorize, and you may also provide a copy to a lawyer, sibling, or trusted party to hold securely)

This secure password repository should preferably be available from a device or location that isn’t tied to where you keep your hardware.

Check your trusted devices and numbers

With two-factor authentication (2FA) enabled on your Apple Account, you might be locked out permanently if you lose access to trusted devices, and trusted phone numbers for SMS and automated voice calls, or can’t find hardware security keys that can be used with an Apple Account.

If you’re using hardware security keys with your Apple Account, Apple already requires that you associate two of them with the account. Always keep one in a place you can get to in an emergency in case the other is lost or destroyed.

Any Apple device logged in to an iCloud account with 2FA active is a so-called trusted device. You can tell that this is working when you try to log in via a browser to the Apple Account website, as every trusted device will display a notification for the 2FA code needed to confirm the login.

If one of your trusted devices doesn’t show that message, check in System Settings/Settings > Account Name that you’re correctly logged in and that you see all the associated devices you expect. If you still can’t get your Apple Account to message trusted devices or the list of devices is missing, you may want to log out of your Apple Account on affected devices and then log back in.

This can take a while and prompt you to answer a lot of questions about synced data—the answer for most is “keep data stored on this device.” When you log back in to iCloud on the device, you agree to merge data, which should avoid duplication and deletion.

You should also check that trusted phone numbers are still properly registered:

  1. Log in at the Apple Account website. If you have Touch ID or Face ID active, click “Use a different Apple Account” and then enter your ID and password.
  2. Instead of entering a 2FA code, click or tap “Didn’t get a verification code?”
  3. Click or tap Text Me. (This will be labeled differently if you marked any or all trusted phone numbers as receiving automatic voice calls instead of text messages.)
  4. Select a trusted number if more than one is available; if only one, Apple texts that number.
  5. Enter the code that’s sent or use the AutoFill option in Safari.

If you never receive the code, log in with a trusted device, check the phone number, and remove and add it. I also recommend having multiple trusted phone numbers as backups.

Changing your phone number has a huge impact in the era of 2FA. You should instead try to transfer your old number to another phone temporarily so you can switch the number listed for various accounts’ 2FA and for iCloud trusted phone numbers.

If you have willing friends, colleagues, or families, having their number as a backup in case your phone isn’t available doesn’t really reduce security, as they would need to know your Apple Account username and password to compromise your security.

Put a PIN on your carrier account

Add a PIN (if you don’t already have one) for account access to your wireless carrier or enable the highest security available for an increasingly rare wired home phone line. Someone who could obtain codes from your phone number might be able to reset your Apple Account and then access iCloud information. (Enabling Advanced Data Protection is one way of preventing that.) Because of accessibility, codes can often be sent both by SMS and by an automated voice system that speaks the code.

Crackers often target people and combine social engineering and easily available online information to convince a customer-service representative that they are the legitimate account holder to get a phone number migrated to a new phone. (Are you likely to be targeted? See whether you need more security than Apple’s defaults. Yet someone may target your account at random to launch attacks.)

The PIN sets a higher bar, because a cracker might have your phone number, financial details, and other information, depending on data breaches floating around.

Keeping your security keys safe

You should treat hardware security keys as if they were irreplaceable keys to the castle—like a passphrase for a cryptocurrency wallet or a password for a vault that self-destructs when you’re one number off in a Dan Brown novel. They’re extremely secure, absolutely vital, and also can be used by other people!

Apple requires that you enroll at least two hardware security keys for an Apple Account. Most sites only require a single hardware key, or won’t let you enroll more than one. If you lose the key, most sites offer a workaround that requires more forms of validation to gain access. Apple does not.

If you can’t find your hardware security keys (or they’re irretrievable, stolen, or busted), but do have access to any of your Apple devices, you can go to Settings/System Settings > Account Name > Sign-In & Security > Two-Factor Authentication > Security Keys and remove all hardware security keys. This requires your device passcode or macOS account password if Stolen Device Protection is disabled, or Touch ID or Face ID if that feature is enabled. Then you can use code-based 2FA to log in to your Apple Account. You can choose to add new security keys if you want to re-enable that level of account security.

Apple has a significant flaw in hardware key management: you can remove all the keys from your Apple Account on an iPhone, iPad, or Mac using only the device passcode or the macOS account password. I feel Apple should demand additional information or another hardware key on the account, since the keys are meant to provide an extra-high level of security.

Enabling Stolen Device Protection requires Face ID or Touch ID to remove all keys. So if you’re concerned about someone gaining access to your device and its associated device or account secret, enable that feature. See how to turn on Stolen Device Protection.

Avoiding malware is a result of both preparation and ongoing vigilance and consistent behavior.

Apple’s built-in protections

Early in macOS’s history, Apple took a hands-off approach to malware, working to keep the system as free of exploits as possible, but leaving viral issues to third parties. That changed in Mac OS X 10.6 Snow Leopard, when Apple added the first vestiges of XProtect, its file quarantine and anti-malware checker. It now has several often interlocking measures.

Like Gatekeeper, you won’t find the name XProtect in macOS at all; Apple describes it only on their website.

Apple continues to add invisible and overt protections, too, such as the anti-paste warning and script blocker described in the kinds of Mac malware.

XProtect and XProtect Remediator

XProtect offers just a single aspect of anti-malware software, which is that it protects against known exploits. Using a method that relies on a signature that identifies specific malware, XProtect from macOS 10.15 Catalina onward checks apps when first launched or after they’ve been modified, and whenever the list of signatures updates. Apple collects these signatures into a database; a scheduled process automatically checks every 24 hours for updates to it. Apple will make emergency pushes to your Mac sooner if necessary. If a compromised app is found, you’re alerted to take action.

The moment an exploit is found in the wild, these XProtect updates ensure no Mac user connected to the internet after that point will be subject to the attack, even as Apple releases operating system security software fixes that take longer typically to ship that prevent future variant attacks that rely on the same weakness.

Apple used to also schedule regular passes by the hidden Malware Removal Tool (MRT), which could both find and remove malware, including in documents. Because Apple provides only limited documentation about XProtect and didn’t even mention MRT, it’s hard to know how they interact. Fortunately, Mac users have the previously mentioned Howard Oakley, one of the key independent people who finds and documents hidden system-level features.

Howard discovered Apple had added a new tool called XProtect Remediator that runs frequently and can both discover and remediate (take action on) any malware it finds. Howard reported in 2022 that Apple sunsetted MRT and now relies entirely on Remediator—including in macOS back to Catalina—which scans about once a day generally, although individual modules may run more frequently. In a post in June 2023, Howard explained the replacement and listed current modules that Remediator uses to check for known malware.

Check Howard’s site for updates about XProtect and Remediator if that piques your interest. Or get his free tool, SilentKnight, to get detailed information about scans and fixes installed on your Mac.

Gatekeeper

Gatekeeper is a great way to prevent potentially dangerous software from launching, even when you’ve been fooled into downloading a file you think is legitimate. Likewise, configuring Gatekeeper to App Store only for accounts you manage for other people—kids and others who want you to help them stay out of trouble—limits their potential exposure even more.

System extensions

The macOS system can be modified by extensions, as covered in what launches on your Mac, which includes modifications to and monitoring of network traffic. Even third-party software that’s notarized and signed has to declare to Apple what kind of networking it’s engaged in. Thus, a virus that somehow managed to insert itself into legitimate, signed software would still be unable to tap into your networked data without alerting you or causing errors.

Security responses

Starting in macOS 13 Ventura (and iOS 16/iPadOS 16), Apple added Rapid Security Response, a new method for delivering critical security updates without requiring a full system update. Starting in Golden Gate, macOS seemed to encompass those responses in the “Install system data files and security updates” setting in Automatic Updates; see how to set up automatic security updates. All the items in this category are installed automatically and don’t require a reboot.

Apple’s array of protections, described in how macOS protects its own system files, prevents malware from changing them.

Keep good backups

The easiest way to fight malware of all kinds, and particularly ransomware, is to have a continuously streaming backup of your documents, along with an archive or version history.

Ransomware attacks occur at some specific point in time, and most of them aren’t subtle: they try to encrypt all potential files as fast as possible to avoid detection. While some malware can try to erase backups or you might discover it was installed months ago, ransomware requires a much shallower archive.

If you have any or all of the following, you can use anti-malware software to remove the ransomware; tune up your system to avoid future attacks; and then restore files:

  • Time Machine: Time Machine backups retain file versions as they’re modified, and updates are typically written every hour. Older files are typically deleted only after a few weeks and only when there’s pressure on available storage. You may be able to roll back your corrupted files to a snapshot just before the attack began.
  • Cloud backups: Backblaze and other incremental archiving services typically run continuously or frequently, and retain overwritten and deleted files for a period of time, usually no less than 30 days. Some services let you pay extra to retain files for up to one year or as long as forever—as long as you keep paying. Using the service’s tools, you can find the point before the attack and download an archive of pristine files.
  • Sync services: Services like Dropbox and others sync files as you modify them while retaining previous versions and deleted files, just like cloud backups. It can be a little trickier to grab all files from a point in time, but it’s doable.
  • Occasional offline clones: Obviously, if you clone your drive after a ransomware attack, the cloned version has the same problem as your live system. However, making regular clones that you store offline (not connected or powered up), or even offsite, can give you a revert position if you have a problem with other backups, even if you might lose some more recent file changes or email messages.

Backblaze stopped archiving cloud-based files available through the macOS filesystem, such as Dropbox, Google Drive, and Microsoft OneDrive, in April 2026. Some people were upset about this, because Backblaze provided this detail in an update log for its apps rather than in an announcement. It’s not in a support note, either.

The reason, however, is straightforward: Apple shifted how cloud sync services appear in macOS to the Finder, apps, and parts of the system. The files appear locally stored, while sync service components ensure they load a file on demand if there’s no cached copy.

For backup services, that’s problematic, because it either means every synced file is loaded, which causes delays and huge bandwidth usage, or a stub is stored, which isn’t useful for restoring. Backblaze opted out, since it can’t reliably ensure it’s copying your cloud files.

So what are you to do as a user? The reason to use the cloud is to not store files locally. I don’t want to—and don’t want you to—rely on the potential that just a single copy of your files exists in the cloud. I haven’t figured out the answer yet. Carbon Copy Cloner and other tools have a way you can temporarily download files from the cloud to back them up, but there are complications involved in this, too, as Bombich Software explains in a detailed note for CCC.

Common sense

As with everything in the world of security, all you can do is improve your odds. So, when it comes to malware, here are my recommendations. First, everyone (regardless of risk level) should do the following:

  • Install security updates rapidly: Apple pushes XProtect Remediator updates to your Mac and Rapid Security Responses, but you need to choose to install or set automatic installation for most security updates. Apple will often put out the word if there’s a really severe problem. See how to set up automatic security updates.
  • Trust your gut when it says “no”: If you receive an email that wants you to carry out an action, give it a few looks before proceeding. Don’t click unknown URLs. If you reach a site with a weird or dubious URL, close the tab immediately. Don’t enter your administrator password when you don’t know why it’s being asked.

I’m not waggling my finger at you—I’ve missed my gut talking, too. Recently, a spate of “unpaid toll camera fee” and “unpaid traffic ticket penalty” texts spewed in my and many people’s text messages. Since we have a toll bridge near us, I thought, “Oh, something must have gone wrong with the account.” But I checked the account first instead of clicking the link. That saved me.

Apple and third-party password managers keep you from falling into a phishing abyss. If you saved a password or passkey at americanexpress.com and go to amer1canexpr3ss.com, the manager won’t cough up the credentials. Keep a close eye on this, as sometimes companies have multiple sites for different services or tasks, and you may occasionally have to use your credentials at a different domain.

  • Filter your mail: Email is one of the most common ways for malware to spread, and a good spam filter will zap it before it hits your inbox—or before you’re as naïve as I am sometimes!

Even if your email provider offers effective, configurable server-side filtering, I recommend adding SpamSieve.

  • Avoid software whose origins you don’t know: Malware often spreads through sketchy or pirated software. If you don’t know who made an app or where it came from, or you know it should be paid for, but you’re nevertheless downloading a cracked or otherwise non-legitimate version, you are asking for trouble.

Firewalls and network monitoring

At one point we both avidly recommended using firewall software. Apple’s built-in solution is fairly weak, so we’d suggest one of several third-party options, often bundled with anti-malware software. Up until a few years ago, it seemed like the biggest risk to a Mac user would be from a remote invader.

Turns out, not! Phishing, Trojan horses, stolen or misused developer certificates, and simple “hey, install this by typing in your administrator password” were the big vectors—and not very big at that.

As covered in which Mac sharing services are safe to turn on, the best advice is to not enable network services you don’t need.

You can turn on and set up your new iPhone 18 Pro or iPhone 18 Pro Max with an internet connection. You can also set up iPhone 18 Pro by connecting it to your computer. If you have another iPhone, an iPad, or an Android device, you can transfer your data to your new iPhone 18 Pro.

Prepare for setup

To make setup as smooth as possible, have the following items available:

  • An internet connection through a Wi-Fi network (you may need the name and password of the network) or cellular data service through a carrier (not required for iPhone 18 Pro models)
  • Your Apple Account and password; if you don’t have an Apple Account, you can create one during setup
  • Your credit or debit card account information, if you want to add a card to Apple Pay during setup
  • Your previous iPhone or a backup of your device, if you’re transferring your data to your new iPhone 18 Pro

Tip: If you don’t have sufficient storage space to back up your device, iCloud will provide enough storage to complete a temporary backup, free of charge, for up to three weeks from the purchase of your iPhone. On your previous device, go to the Settings app 541ed016-e1c2-4e06-813b-7a5236b16a3a, tap General, then tapTransfer or Reset [device]. Tap Get Started, then follow the onscreen instructions.

  • Your Android device, if you’re transferring your Android content

Turn on and set up your iPhone 18 Pro

  1. Press and hold the side button until the Apple logo appears.

A green arrow pointing to the button on the right side of iPhone 18 Pro.

If iPhone 18 Pro doesn’t turn on, you might need to charge the battery.

Tip: If you’re blind or have low vision, you can triple-click the side button to turn on VoiceOver, the screen reader. You can also double-tap the screen with three fingers to turn on Zoom.

  1. Do one of the following:

    • Set up with another device: If you have another iPhone or iPad with iOS 11, iPadOS 13, or later, you can use it to automatically set up your new iPhone 18 Pro. Bring the two devices close together, then follow the onscreen instructions to securely copy many of your settings, preferences, and iCloud Keychain. You can then restore the rest of your data and content to your new device from your iCloud backup.

Or, if your other device has iOS 12.4, iPadOS 13, or later, you can transfer all your data wirelessly from your previous device to your new iPhone 18 Pro. Keep your iPhone 18 Pro near the other device and plugged into power until the migration process is complete.

- _Set Up Manually:_ If you don't have another device, tap Set Up Without Another Device, then follow the onscreen setup instructions.

Move from an Android device to iPhone

If you have an Android device, you can transfer your data with the Move to iOS app when you first set up your new iPhone 18 Pro.

Note: If you already completed setup and want to use Move to iOS, you must erase your iPhone and start over, or move your data manually.

  1. On your device with Android version 4.0 or later, download the Move to iOS app.
  2. On your iPhone 18 Pro, do the following:

    • Follow the setup assistant.
    • On the Transfer Your Apps & Data screen, tap From Android.
  3. On the Android device, do the following:

    • Turn on Wi-Fi.
    • Open the Move to iOS app.
    • Follow the onscreen instructions.

See also: How to Use iPhone 18 Pro and iPhone 18 Pro Max: A Beginner’s Guide

Learn how to use iPhone 18 Pro or iPhone 18 Pro Max with high quality screenshots! Our comprehensive guide is a useful resource for users who want to get the most out of their brand-new iPhone 18 Pro or iPhone 18 Pro Max! Images are perfect for visual learners, so this guide uses high quality screenshots to show you how to get started with the iPhone 18 Pro and iPhone 18 Pro Max. We walk you step-by-step through how to use basic features such as locking and unlocking your iPhone, all the way to advanced features such as using Siri AI. Whether you are new to the iPhone or have just upgraded to the 18 Pro or 18 Pro Max, this guide helps you unlock your phone’s full functionality and maximize your use and enjoyment of it.

iPhone 18 Pro is displayed in black, silver, glacier, and burgundy.

Turn iPhone 18 Pro on or off

There are multiple ways to turn your iPhone 18 Pro on and off–you can use the buttons on the side of your iPhone, or you can use the controls in Settings and Control Center.

Turn on iPhone 18 Pro

Press and hold the side button until the Apple logo appears.

A green arrow pointing to the button on the right side of iPhone.

Turn off iPhone 18 Pro

Simultaneously press and hold the side button and either volume button until the sliders appear, then drag the Power Off slider.

Turn off iPhone 18 Pro in Control Center

  1. Open Control Center by swiping down from the top right of the screen.
  2. Touch and hold the Power button in the top-right corner of your screen.
  3. Drag the slider to turn off iPhone.

Turn off iPhone 18 Pro in Settings

  1. Go to the Settings app on your iPhone.
  2. Tap General, scroll down, then tap Shut Down.
  3. Drag the slider to turn off iPhone.

Wake, unlock, and lock iPhone 18 Pro

iPhone turns off the display to save power, locks for security, and goes to sleep when you’re not using it. You can quickly wake and unlock iPhone 18 Pro when you want to use it again.

Wake iPhone 18 Pro

To wake iPhone 18 Pro, do one of the following:

  • Press the side button.

A green arrow pointing to the button on the right side of iPhone.

  • Raise iPhone.

A hand lifting iPhone from a flat surface.

Note: To turn off Raise to Wake, go to the Settings app , then tap Display & Brightness.

  • Tap the screen.

A finger tapping the screen to wake iPhone.

Unlock iPhone 18 Pro with Face ID

If you didn’t set up Face ID when you first set up your iPhone 18 Pro, go to Settings > Face ID & Passcode > Set up Face ID, then follow the onscreen instructions. Then follow these steps:

  1. Tap the screen or raise iPhone to wake it, then glance at your iPhone.

The lock icon animates from closed to open to indicate that iPhone is unlocked.

  1. Swipe up from the bottom of the screen.

Note: To lock iPhone again, press the side button. iPhone locks automatically if you don’t touch the screen for a minute or so. However, if Attention Aware Features is turned on, iPhone won’t dim or lock as long as it detects attention. To turn it on or off, go to the Settings app , then tap Face ID & Passcode.

Unlock iPhone 18 Pro with a passcode

If you didn’t create a passcode when you set up iPhone 18 Pro, go to Settings > Face ID & Passcode, tap Turn Passcode On, then follow the onscreen instructions. Then follow these steps:

  1. Swipe up from the bottom of the Lock Screen.
  2. Enter your passcode.

Lock iPhone 18 Pro

You can lock iPhone 18 Pro using the following methods:

  • Manually: Press the side button.
  • Automatically: iPhone locks on its own if you don’t interact with it for a certain amount of time.

When iPhone locks, the display turns off unless you’ve turned on the Always On Display.

Learn gestures for iPhone 18 Pro

Here’s a handy reference to the gestures you use for interacting with an iPhone 18 Pro or iPhone 18 Pro Max:

Gesture Description
Go to the Home Screen Swipe up from the bottom edge of the screen to return to the Home Screen at any time.
Quickly access controls Swipe down from the top-right corner to open Control Center; touch and hold a control to reveal more options. To add or remove controls, go to the Settings app, then tap Control Center.
Open the App Switcher Swipe up from the bottom edge, pause in the center of the screen, then lift your finger. To browse the open apps, swipe right, then tap the app you want to use.
Switch between open apps Swipe up from the bottom edge, then swipe right or left.
Use Siri Just say “Siri” or “Hey Siri.” Or press and hold the side button while you ask a question or make a request.
Use Apple Pay Double-click the side button to display your default card for Apple Pay, then glance at iPhone to authenticate with Face ID.
Use Accessibility Shortcut Triple-click the side button.
Take a screenshot Simultaneously press and quickly release the side button and volume up button.
Use Emergency SOS (all countries or regions except India) Simultaneously press and hold the side button and either volume button until the sliders appear and the countdown on Emergency SOS ends, then release the buttons.
Use Emergency SOS (in India) Quickly press the side button 3 times until the sliders appear and the countdown on Emergency SOS ends.

If you’ve turned on Accessibility Shortcut, simultaneously press and hold the side button and either volume button until the sliders appear and the countdown on Emergency SOS ends, then release the buttons.

Turn off Simultaneously press and hold the side button and either volume button until the sliders appear, then drag the top slider to power off. Or go to the Settings app, tap General, then tap Shut Down.
Force restart Press and release the volume up button, press and release the volume down button, then press and hold the side button until the Apple logo appears.

Use the Action button, side button, and other controls on your iPhone 18 Pro

Learn about the buttons and other controls on your iPhone 18 Pro and iPhone 18 Pro Max:

  • Side button: Use the side button to turn off your iPhone.
  • Volume buttons: Use the volume up/down buttons to adjust the volume when listening to music, watching videos, or playing games. When you’re not using other apps, the buttons will adjust the ringer volume.
  • Action button: You can choose what you want this button to do, including opening the Camera app or turning on the flashlight. By default, the Action button turns Silent mode on or off.
  • Camera Control: Use the Camera Control to quickly open your iPhone 18 Pro camera, capture photos or videos, and access camera settings.

Use the Lock Screen

The Lock Screen appears when you turn on or wake iPhone 18 Pro. From the Lock Screen, you can see notifications, open Camera and Control Center, get information from your favorite apps at a glance, control media playback, and more.

You can quickly access useful features and information from the Lock Screen, even while iPhone 18 Pro is locked.

Go to the Lock Screen, then do any of the following:

  • Open Camera: Swipe left. You can touch and hold the Camera button, then lift your finger.
  • Open Control Center: Swipe down from the top-right corner of your iPhone 18 Pro.
  • See earlier notifications: Swipe up from the center.
  • View more widgets: Swipe right. You can interact with widgets on the Lock Screen and the Home Screen to perform tasks–for example, tap an item in the Reminders widget to check it off, or tap the Play button in the Podcasts widget to play an episode.
  • Control media playback: Use the playback controls (Now Playing) on the Lock Screen to play, pause, rewind, or fast-forward media playing on your iPhone.

Use the Dynamic Island on iPhone 18 Pro

On iPhone 18 Pro and iPhone 18 Pro Max, you can check alerts and Live Activities–such as a Voice Memo recording in progress, an AirDrop connection, and directions from Maps–in the Dynamic Island on the Home Screen or in an active app whenever your iPhone is unlocked. On iPhone 18 Pro models, the Dynamic Island can show up to three Live Activities at the same time.

An iPhone Home Screen, showing a live Voice Memo recording in the Dynamic Island at the top of the screen.

You can do any of the following in the iPhone 18 Pro Dynamic Island:

  • Expand the activity to see more detail: Touch and hold the activity.
  • Collapse the activity to make the Dynamic Island smaller: Swipe the expanded activity up.
  • Switch between two activities: Tap the activity you want to view.
  • Move between activities: On iPhone 18 Pro models, the Dynamic Island can show up to three Live Activities at the same time. Swipe across it to move between them.

Personalize your iPhone 18 Pro

Customize the look of app icons on Home Screen

A customized Home Screen clear icons tinted blue and arranged to frame the photo, and controls at the bottom of the screen for customizing icons. Options include Automatic, Dark, Light, and Tinted buttons, options for choosing color and saturation, and Small and Large buttons for setting the icons' size.

You can change how app icons look on your iPhone 18 Pro Home Screen–adjust their size, apply a color tint, or switch between light and dark appearances.

  1. Go to the Home Screen.
  2. Touch and hold the Home Screen background until the icons begin to jiggle.
  3. Tap the Edit button, then choose Customize.
  4. Do any of the following:

    • Make the icons larger: Tap the Large App Icon button. In large size, the names of the apps disappear.
    • Choose a dark appearance: Tap Dark. To show icons and widgets with a dark appearance at night and a light appearance during the day, tap Auto.
    • Give the icons a clear look: Tap Clear to make the icons translucent, then choose Light, Dark, or Auto.
    • Add a color tint: Tap Tinted. Use the sliders to choose the color and saturation (or use the eyedropper to select a color in your wallpaper). Then choose Light, Dark, or Auto.

Change the wallpaper on iPhone 18 Pro

On iPhone 18 Pro, you can change the wallpaper on the Lock Screen and the Home Screen. You can set your wallpaper in Settings or through the wallpaper gallery from your Lock Screen.

The Wallpaper Settings screen, with buttons for customizing the current wallpaper on the Home Screen and Lock Screen, and the Add New Wallpaper button for changing the wallpaper.

  1. Go to the Settings app on your iPhone.
  2. Tap Wallpaper, tap Add New Wallpaper, then do any of the following:

    • Tap a button at the top of the wallpaper gallery–for example, Photos, Emoji, or Color–to design your wallpaper.
    • Choose a wallpaper option from one of the featured sets (for example, Nature).

Note: If you don’t see wallpaper options you want to use (for example, Weather or Astronomy), scroll down to see more options, then tap Get below the one you like.

  1. Tap Add, then do one of the following:

    • Choose to use the wallpaper on both the Lock Screen and Home Screen: Tap Set as Wallpaper Pair.
    • Make changes to the Home Screen: Tap Customize Home Screen. Tap a color to change the wallpaper color, tap the Select a Photo button to use a custom photo, or select Blur to blur the wallpaper so the apps stand out.

Add a widget to your iPhone 18 Pro Home Screen

Weather, Reminders, and Home widgets on the iPhone 18 Pro Home Screen. The Reminders and Home widgets display interactive features.

Widgets give you an easy way to view current information from an app at a glance–today’s headlines, weather, reminders, battery levels, and more. You can add widgets to your iPhone 18 Pro Home Screen or Lock Screen to keep this information at your fingertips.

  1. Go to the Home Screen, then find the Home Screen page where you want to add the widget.
  2. Touch and hold the background until the apps begin to jiggle, tap the Edit button, then tap Add Widget.
  3. Scroll or search to find the widget you want, tap it, then swipe through the size and style options.
  4. When you see the size you want, tap Add Widget.
  5. While the apps are still jiggling, move the widget where you want it, then tap the Done button.

Change iPhone 18 Pro sounds and vibrations

You can change the sounds iPhone plays when you get a call, message, and alert.

Haptic feedback is the vibration you feel on your iPhone when you perform some actions, such as when you touch and hold any icon on the Home Screen.

To change ringtone and vibration settings on iPhone 18 Pro:

  1. Go to the Settings app on your iPhone 18 Pro.
  2. Tap Sounds & Haptics, then do any of the following below Ringtone:

    • Change your ringtone: Tap Ringtone, then tap a ringtone to preview it and select it.
    • Adjust ringer volume: Drag the volume slider.
    • Change the haptic pattern: Tap Haptics, then choose a pattern or tap Create New Vibration to record your own.
    • Control ringer volume with buttons: Turn Change with Buttons on or off.

You can also change the sounds iPhone plays for certain people. Go to the Contacts app , tap a person’s name, tap Edit, then choose a ringtone and text tone.

Adjust the screen brightness and color on iPhone 18 Pro

The iPhone Home Screen with Dark Mode on.

On iPhone, you can make your screen dimmer or brighter (dimming the screen extends battery life). You can also adjust the screen brightness and color manually or automatically with Dark Mode.

To make your iPhone 18 Pro screen dimmer or brighter, do one of the following:

  • Open Control Center by swiping down from the top right of your screen, then drag the Brightness button up or down.
  • Go to the Settings app , tap Display & Brightness, then drag the slider.

Dark Mode gives the entire iPhone 18 Pro experience a dark color scheme that’s perfect for low-light environments. With Dark Mode on, you can use your iPhone 18 Pro while, for example, reading in bed, without disturbing the person next to you.

Do any of the following:

  • Open Control Center by swiping down from the top right of the screen, touch and hold the Brightness button, then tap the Appearance button to turn Dark Mode on or off.
  • Go to the Settings app , tap Display & Brightness, then select Dark to turn on Dark Mode, or select Light to turn it off.

Use your Apps

Open apps on iPhone 18 Pro

You can quickly open apps from one of your Home Screen pages (like the one shown below) or your App Library.

A screenshot showing an example of the default Home Screen.

  1. To go to the Home Screen, swipe up from the bottom edge of the screen.
  2. Swipe left to browse apps on other Home Screen pages.
  3. Swipe left past all your Home Screen pages to see App Library, where your apps are organized by category.
  4. To open an app, tap its icon.
  5. To return to App Library, swipe up from the bottom edge of the screen.

Quit and reopen an app on iPhone 18 Pro

If an app isn’t responding, you can quit it and then reopen it to try and resolve the issue.

Note: iPhone automatically manages how apps run in the background, so quitting apps you’re not using doesn’t prolong battery life.

  1. To quit the app on iPhone 18 Pro, open the App Switcher by swiping up from the bottom of the screen, pausing in the center of the screen, then lifting your finger. Swipe right to find the app, then swipe up on the app.
  2. To reopen the app, go to the Home Screen or App Library, then tap the app.

Switch between open apps

You can quickly switch from one open app to another on your iPhone 18 Pro. When you switch back, you can pick up right where you left off.

  1. To see all your open apps, swipe up from the bottom of the screen, pause in the center of the screen, then lift your finger.
  2. To browse the open apps, swipe right, then tap the app you want to use.

To quickly switch between open apps on an iPhone 18 Pro, swipe right along the bottom edge of the screen.

Use Phone, Messages and FaceTime

Make a call on iPhone 18 Pro

Making a phone call on iPhone 18 Pro is easy.

The Calls tab in the Phone app in Unified layout. Favorite contacts appear at the top. Below the Favorites is a list of recent calls and voicemail. Buttons to view the Calls, Contacts, and Keypad tabs appear at the bottom. The Search button is in the bottom-right corner.

Siri: Ask Siri to call or dial a number. Speak each digit separately–for example, “four one five, five five five….” For the 800 area code in the U.S., you can say “eight hundred.”

Or without using Siri:

  1. Go to the Phone app on your iPhone.
  2. Tap Keypad , then do any of the following:

    • Use a different line: On models with Dual SIM, tap the line at the top, then choose a line.
    • Enter the number using the keypad: If you make a mistake, tap the Delete button.
    • Redial the last number: Tap the Call button to see the last number you dialed, then tap the Call button to call that number.
    • Paste a number you’ve copied: Tap the phone number field above the keypad, then tap Paste.
    • Enter a soft (2-second) pause: Touch and hold the star (*) key until a comma appears.
    • Enter a hard pause (to pause dialing until you tap the Dial button): Touch and hold the pound (#) key until a semicolon appears.
    • Enter a “+” for international calls: Touch and hold the “0” key until “+” appears.
  3. Tap the Call button to start the call.

To end the call, tap the End Call button.

Make FaceTime calls on iPhone 18 Pro

With an internet connection, you can make and receive calls in the FaceTime app.

The screen for making a FaceTime call. The New Call button is at the bottom of the screen.

  1. Go to the FaceTime app on your iPhone.
  2. Tap New Call.
  3. Enter the name, number, or email of the person you want to call. Alternatively, you can tap the Add Contact button to open Contacts and add people from there, or tap a suggested contact.
  4. Tap FaceTime to make a video call or the Audio Call button to make an audio call.

Send and reply to messages on iPhone 18 Pro

You can send text messages, images, and much more. You can reply within a conversation or to specific comments in a thread. You can even use Siri to listen and respond to your messages.

Siri: Ask Siri something like, “Read my last message from Antonio.”

The Messages conversation list, with the Compose button at the bottom right. A blue dot to the left of a message indicates it's unread.

Start a conversation

You can send a text message to one or more people to start a new conversation.

A Messages conversation. The name of the person you're sending messages to is at the top of the screen. You can tap their name to see conversation details. The Add button is in the bottom-left corner.

  1. Go to the Messages app on your iPhone.
  2. In the conversation list, tap the Compose button at the bottom of the screen.
  3. Tap the To field, then enter the phone number, contact name, or Apple Account of each recipient.

To choose recipients from your contacts, tap the Add Contact button in the To field.

  1. Do any of the following:

    • Tap the text field above the keyboard, then type your message.
    • Tap the Emoji key or the Next Keyboard key to add emoji.
    • Tap the Dictate key to dictate text in the language of your keyboard.
    • Tap the Add button (to the left of the text field) to send photos, videos, stickers, location, and more.
  2. Tap the Send button to send.

To return to the conversation list from a conversation, tap the Back button.

Reply to a message

Messages are grouped by conversation in the conversation list. A dot indicates you haven’t yet read one or more messages in that conversation.

  1. Go to the Messages app on your iPhone.
  2. Go to the conversation that you want to participate in.
  3. Tap the text field, create your message, then tap the Send button to send your message.

Use Camera on iPhone 18 Pro

Take a photo

  1. Open Camera on your iPhone 18 Pro.
  2. Tap the Shutter button or press either volume button to take a photo.

Camera is open in Photo mode. The Camera Controls button is in the top-right corner. The Photo and Video Viewer button is in the bottom-left corner. The Take Picture button is at the bottom center, and the Camera Chooser Back-Facing button is in the bottom-right corner.

You can also click the Camera Control button to open Camera, then click it again to take a photo.

Take a selfie with your iPhone 18 Pro camera

Use the front-facing camera on your iPhone 18 Pro to take a selfie. You can take selfies in Photo mode or Portrait mode.

  1. Open Camera on your iPhone.
  2. Tap the Camera Chooser Back-Facing button to switch to the front-facing camera.
  3. Before taking the selfie, you can do any of the following:

    • Tap the Selfie Zoom Zoomed In button to increase the field of view; tap the Selfie Zoom Zoomed Out button to return to the original view.
    • Tap the Change Aspect Ratio button to rotate the frame from portrait to landscape on supported models; tap the Change Aspect Ratio button to return to portrait.
  4. Tap the Shutter button, press either volume button, or click the Camera Control to take the selfie.

The Camera screen in Photo mode. Within the camera frame, the subjects are taking a selfie.

Use Siri AI on iPhone 18 Pro

Siri AI (Beta) is your conversational AI assistant with entirely new capabilities, including personal context understanding, onscreen awareness, and broad world knowledge. With Siri AI, you also have Siri mode in Camera, which allows you to search, ask questions, and take action based on what’s around you, and a dedicated Siri app that brings all your conversations in one place. These new capabilities make Siri a more capable assistant by allowing you to find what you need and get more done.

Siri AI

Turn on Siri AI on iPhone 18 Pro

  1. Go to the Settings app on your iPhone 18 Pro.
  2. Tap Siri, then do one of the following:

    • If Siri is off: Tap “Turn on Siri,” then tap “Try Siri AI (Beta).”
    • If Siri is on: Tap “Try Siri AI (Beta).”
  3. Follow the onscreen instructions.

An iPhone showing Siri finding content specified in the request.

Find what you need

Siri AI can search your photos, mail, messages, calendar, and more to find exactly what you’re looking for. Ask Siri to find a photo from years ago, a recommendation from a family member, and details about your friend’s flight itinerary from your email or calendar.

Siri AI: Activate Siri, then say something like, “Find photos from my trip to Lisbon” or “What time should I leave to pick up Antonio?”

An iPhone showing Siri answering a request to plan a menu based on a calendar event.

Get more done

With onscreen awareness and an understanding of your personal context, Siri AI helps you get more done. Ask Siri to plan a menu for an event or add ingredients from a recipe to your shopping list. Siri can also take action in more apps and even make suggestions for what you might want to do next.

Siri AI: Activate Siri, then say something like, “Plan a menu for my watch party on Saturday.” Swipe down on the Siri response to see the full menu and make follow-up requests, like “Send this to the fantasy league group chat.”

An iPhone showing Siri answering a request about how to improve a tennis backhand.

Ask about any topic

Siri AI has broad world knowledge, which is combined with your personal context to give you detailed, up-to-date, and relevant insights to your questions. Ask about virtually any topic–from finding the perfect weekend activity to do with family to details about the world around you.

Siri AI: Activate Siri, then say something like, “Give me some tips on how to improve my tennis backhand” or “When will cherry blossoms reach peak bloom this year?”

An iPhone screen shows a response from Siri identifying what's on the screen.

Learn about what’s on your screen

Ask Siri about content on your iPhone screen–like an image or PDF–to get answers, search, or take action.

Siri AI: Activate Siri, then say something like, “What is this and how do I make it?” Swipe down on the Siri response to see the recipe and make follow-up requests, like “Add the ingredients to my shopping list.”

An iPhone with Siri mode in Camera showing a suggestion to split the bill with Apple Cash.

Discover and take action on the world around you

Siri mode in Camera uses Visual Intelligence to let you quickly identify something, ask questions, search based on what’s in your camera frame, or take quick actions–like splitting a bill with friends when you get the check or quickly importing a card to Apple Wallet.

Siri AI: On your iPhone with Camera open, tap Siri to switch to Siri mode, or click and hold the Camera Control when your iPhone is locked. Point your iPhone camera at something around you, then tap the Ask button to ask a question. You can also tap a suggestion–for example, while pointing the camera at a check, tap “Split Bill with Apple Cash” when it appears, then follow the onscreen instructions.

An iPhone showing Siri proofreading and giving feedback on text.

Write with Siri

Siri AI can generate a draft from scratch, summarize information, and provide feedback on what you’ve written–just describe what you want. For example, ask Siri to proofread a note or to write an itinerary for an upcoming trip.

Siri AI: Activate Siri, then say something like, “How’s this sound?” or “Write a day-by-day itinerary for a 3-day trip to New York.” Swipe down on the Siri response to continue to revise or ask follow-up questions.

The Siri app on an iPhone, iPad, and Mac.

Keep the conversation going

The Siri app brings all your conversations in one place, allowing you to pick up where you left off or start new conversations.

Siri AI: Go to the Siri app on your iPhone, then select a conversation or tap the New Conversation button to start a new one.

View and respond to notifications on iPhone 18 Pro

Notifications help you keep track of what’s new–they let you know if you missed a call, if the date of an event moved, and more.

To see your notifications in Notification Center, do any of the following:

  • On the Lock Screen: Swipe up from the middle of the screen.
  • On other screens: Swipe down from the top-left corner. Then you can scroll up to see older notifications, if there are any.

To close Notification Center, swipe up from the bottom with one finger.

When you have multiple notifications in Notification Center or on the Lock Screen, they’re grouped by app, which makes them easier to view and manage. Notifications from some apps may also be grouped by organizing features within the app, such as by topic or thread. Grouped notifications appear as stacks, with the most recent notification on top.

Do any of the following:

  • To expand a group of notifications to see them individually: Tap the group. To close the group, tap Show Less.
  • To view a notification and perform quick actions if the app offers them (on supported models): Touch and hold the notification.
  • To open a notification’s app: Tap the notification.

Charge the iPhone 18 Pro battery

Battery icon with a lightning bolt indicates that the battery is charging.

The battery icon shows the battery level or charging status. When you’re syncing or using iPhone, it may take longer to charge the battery.

Charge the battery

To charge iPhone 18 Pro, do any of the following:

  • Connect iPhone 18 Pro to a power outlet using the charging cable (included) and an Apple USB power adapter or other compatible power adapter (sold separately).

iPhone connected to the power adapter plugged into a power outlet.

  • Place iPhone 18 Pro face up on MagSafe Charger (connected to Apple 20W USB-C power adapter or other compatible power adapter) or on a Qi-certified charger. (MagSafe Charger, power adapters, and Qi-certified chargers are sold separately.)

Show the iPhone 18 Pro battery percentage

You can view how much charge remains in your iPhone 18 Pro battery in the status bar.

  1. Go to the Settings app on your iPhone.
  2. Tap Battery, then turn on Battery Percentage.

On an iPhone 18 Pro, the battery percentage appears inside the battery symbol on the status bar.

Tip: On iPhone 18 Pro, you can also swipe down from the top-right corner to quickly view the battery percentage in Control Center.

Apple built in privacy protection for an issue adjacent to your IP address. Every Ethernet or Wi-Fi adapter, built in or plugged in, has a unique MAC address—that’s Media Access Control, not Macintosh. A MAC address appears in the form xx:xx:xx:xx:xx:xx, where each x is a value between 0 and 15 expressed in hexadecimal (0 to 9 then A to F). Apple perplexingly calls it a “Wi-Fi address”, which is the incorrect name.

A MAC address is how a device communicates over a local network, used to make sure every interface has a unique address to avoid data being delivered to the wrong location. However, because this MAC address is set in hardware, clever hackers and marketers started to use it to associate people with devices—your MAC address persisted indefinitely, so a Wi-Fi router in a public place could conceivably track you over time whenever you connected to any router that shared information with a central database, like a cell carrier or ad-targeting service. Bad!

Apple got around this by adding a “Private Wi-Fi address” option (still the wrong term) that generates a unique MAC address for each Wi-Fi network you join, changing it from time to time. This deters and potentially fully prevents MAC-based tracking.

Apple made significant changes to this several-year-old feature in iOS 18/iPadOS 18, macOS 15 Sequoia, and watchOS 11.

You can configure “Private Wi-Fi address” in one of three ways:

  • Off: The actual unique MAC address is sent to the router.
  • Fixed: Your device generates a MAC address that’s used consistently for the selected Wi-Fi network. This may be required in some places in which a MAC address is used as part of a hotspot portal’s permission system that grants you access or in corporate environments when you’re a guest. Your home router may even offer an option to set a fixed private IP address using a MAC address, so your MAC address needs to be fixed.
  • Rotating: The private address that’s generated is changed to a new, randomly created one every two weeks, whether you’re connecting in that period or after a gap of two weeks or longer.

Apple defaults to either Fixed or Rotating. It uses Fixed the first time you connect to a network with relatively modern Wi-Fi network security—WPA2 or later, to use the technical term. A network without such security, either using outdated standards or requiring no passwords, such as at an open Wi-Fi network at a café, is set to Rotating by default. You have to choose Off, read a warning, and confirm.

The options to change the type of Private Wi-Fi Address used with a network vary by operating system:

  • iPhone/iPad: Go to Settings > Wi-Fi: tap the info button next to the currently connected network or any other network that appears. You can also tap Edit, and then tap the info button next to any stored network.
  • Mac: Go to System Settings > Wi-Fi > Details for the active network. For other networks, click the More button; for Known Networks, then choose Network Settings.

To see the underlying Wi-Fi adapter’s hardware-set MAC address, go to Settings > General > About and look for Wi-Fi Address on an iPhone or iPad. On a Mac, follow the path of System Settings > Wi-Fi, click the Advanced button, and see Wi-Fi MAC Address near the top.

It is rare to find an app that hasn’t gone through notarization. But you may still encounter software you can download from an open source project’s site—typically free and often developed by a group of volunteers—that isn’t signed and notarized.

While most developers consider Apple’s annual developer program fee and company oversight affordable and reasonable, some folks do not. They may be creating a small piece of utility software that’s maintained, but nobody in the group that produces it wants to either ask for donations or cough up the dough. Or they may find Apple’s oversight irksome and invasive, despite the advantage to users. Or they may have interpreted copyright in a way that doesn’t match Apple’s policies.

If it’s not the above case, there are a few other reasons that you might encounter an app Gatekeeper balks at:

  • You run a preliminary version of a new app that the developer simply hasn’t gotten around to signing yet.
  • You create your own app or standalone script (perhaps using Script Editor) and don’t want to (or don’t know how to) sign it.
  • You’ve downloaded malware. It isn’t signed because the developer doesn’t want to risk exposing their identity—and enabling Apple to revoke the certificate, thus preventing the app from being installed in the future.

Whatever the reason, if you launch an app that isn’t signed or is signed but not notarized, macOS explains the problem. The dialog may say that it’s by an unidentified developer, or by a developer whose identity can’t be verified. Click OK—the only choice—and the app never completes launching.

Apple does let you install Mac software like this, but they don’t make it easy. There used to be an option in the Gatekeeper settings to disable Gatekeeper altogether; now, you have to use a manual bypass for any such app you want to launch on its first use, which Apple made more complicated in Sequoia to deter people even further.

Before you override Gatekeeper, give a lot of thought to what you’re trying to run and where you got it. As battle-scarred and cynical as I am, I always take additional effort and make additional scrutiny before bypassing Gatekeeper for an app I know I need and know its source.

Check it before you run it

The most excellent developers who forswear Apple’s process always offer out-of-band methods you can use to check the integrity of their downloads. So if you trust the project and want to make sure an app hasn’t been fiddled with, the site might post hashes it makes of its disk image files at the time of creation, or use its own signing process that can be validated with publicly available encryption keys. The best of these apps will then also provide pointers on how to perform validation and authentication without you having to take a two-hour cryptography course.

With all that in mind, here’s how to bypass Gatekeeper.

  1. Open the application. You see a dialog saying the app can’t be opened, with no suggestion of what to do next. Click Done.
  2. Go to System Settings > Privacy & Security. As with a signed app when you have Gatekeeper set to App Store, you have identical text and an Open Anyway button.
  3. Click Open Anyway.

I’m not sure Apple made the right call here, equating signed apps from developers and unsigned apps as the same kind of problematic item based on the Gatekeeper setting. But I suppose both are now considered suspect in the context of each setting choice.