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For those at high risk of being directly and individually targeted by spyware—for example, if you’re a journalist, politician, human rights advocate, or political activist—Lockdown Mode should be on your radar.

Governments, criminals, and industrial espionage agents typically deploy spyware against uniquely identified, high-value targets. Spyware, which largely relies on zero-day exploits, can be deployed as easily as texting someone a message, even if the message is never read.

With spyware installed, a remote operator may be able to exfiltrate (remotely copy off your device) all your data, access your microphone or camera without tipping you off, intercept messages sent by secure apps directly on your device, prevent messages from being sent or reaching you, plant evidence, and much more.

Apple considers spyware a significant violation of personal privacy. While in some countries there are legal methods to deploy spyware, it’s often used in contravention of national laws within countries and for national-security purposes or to violate the human rights of citizens or residents. Often, spyware is used by one country against those living in another country, including travelers, emigres, exiles, or refugees from the first country. China is notorious for pursuing current and former Chinese citizens living abroad. Apple funds researchers who try to uncover the use of this kind of software and protect against it, as part of their internal security work.

As a further effort to block intrusion, Apple added Lockdown Mode, a sort of super-firewall to resist known pathways for exploits by those who find themselves targets. Lockdown Mode works on an iPhone, iPad, Mac, or Apple Watch.

With Lockdown Mode engaged, your device will filter rich incoming media, block metadata, and prevent you from receiving invitations to any of Apple’s services. Messages blocks attachments and will receive and display only text and images, while disabling links and link previews. In Safari, Apple disables certain browser-based features that allow sophisticated code to run in web apps. (You can add exceptions and manage them, too.)

Starting with Apple’s version 26 operating systems, Messages always automatically disables links to URLs and phone numbers in messages the app identifies as spam.

Lockdown Mode also blocks incoming communications and invitations from people with whom you haven’t previously initiated contact. That is, if someone called you via FaceTime and you spoke with them, they will be unable to call you with Lockdown Mode on. If you called them in the past, however, they’ll be able to. SharePlay and Live Photos are also disabled.

Apple also blocks the installation of configuration profiles, often used to shunt network traffic for interception and to bypass security rules, and a device can’t be enrolled in mobile device management (MDM), commonly used in organizations to manage devices; MDM allows remote configuration and the overriding of user settings.

You can’t join a Wi-Fi network when Lockdown Mode is enabled unless the network has a password set. Also, the location is removed by default from images or videos shared in Photos, and Shared Albums aren’t available.

On the hardware side, you have to unlock your device before attaching to a computer or any accessory via the USB or Thunderbolt port. On a Mac, all accessories must be approved, independent of your option for accessory attachment described in the Mac settings worth changing.

How to turn it on

If you are one of those targets or just want to try out this technology, it’s simple to use. Here’s how to turn it on:

  1. Go to System Settings > Privacy & Security > Lockdown Mode and click Turn On next to the Lockdown Mode label, or go to Settings > Privacy & Security and tap Turn On Lockdown Mode.
  2. At the warning screen, read through the extensive list of limitations, and then click or tap Turn On Lockdown Mode. (Click Cancel to exit, or tap the close button.).
  3. Apple provides one additional warning that Lockdown Mode should be enabled on all your devices, and prompts you to click Turn On & Restart—or click Cancel to exit.
  4. Enter your administrator password and click OK. (You may be prompted earlier in the process for this password.)
  5. Your device restarts. On all other devices linked to the same iCloud account you receive a notification or popup dialog that prompts you to restart with Lockdown Mode. You can exit the dialog or click Later. You may receive this warning multiple times at intervals.

Living with Lockdown Mode

After your device restarts and you log in or enter the passcode, you will likely notice few differences.

When you’re browsing in Safari, a Lockdown Enabled banner appears at the top of every page: on the toolbar for a Mac and below the Location bar on iPhone/iPad. If you want to add a given site to the list of ones excluded from Lockdown strictures, Control-click/right-click in the address bar on a Mac and choose Settings for site name. Uncheck Enable Lockdown Mode. On iPhone/iPad, tap the Page Menu button in the address bar and tap the More button, then disable Lockdown Mode. You’re prompted to confirm your choice with an explanation of what that means. The banner on that page now reads Lockdown Off in red type.

You can change which websites are excluded from Lockdown Mode in Safari > Settings > Websites > Lockdown Mode on a Mac. This view shows both open websites and those you made a choice about. In this context, On means that the site has Lockdown Mode protections enabled, while Off means you have disabled any such protections for that site.

On an iPhone or iPad, go to Settings > Apps > Safari > Lockdown Mode, where you only see websites listed that you specifically disabled Lockdown Mode protections. Website exclusions don’t sync across platforms, either.

Outside of Safari, you’ll notice the difference when you attempt to perform an action that’s not permitted in Lockdown Mode. For instance, try to install a profile or view a file attachment in Messages, and you see descriptive error messages.

After you restart with Lockdown Mode disabled, you still won’t be able to open anything blocked in Messages on that device. Double-click a file and you see the same error.

To disable Lockdown Mode, follow the steps above and click Turn Off or tap Turn Off Lockdown Mode and then confirm by clicking or tapping Turn Off & Restart. You should be asked to authenticate via Touch ID or using a password. Your Mac restarts as normal and has full functionality re-enabled.

Apple’s withdrawn lawsuit

Apple sued an Israeli company offering spyware software to governments, but abruptly withdrew the suit in September 2024. They said in their filing, “Any disclosure, even under the most stringent controls, puts this information at risk. Due to the developments since this suit was filed, proceeding forward at this time would now present too significant a risk to Apple’s threat-intelligence program.”

You can track down your AirPods, AirPods Pro, AirPods Max, and Beats audio devices nearly as easily as other hardware. Here’s a rundown on what makes audio devices different than an iPhone, iPad, Mac, or Apple Watch.

Each earbud is tracked separately

AirPods (3rd generation), AirPods 4 with Active Noise Cancellation, and AirPods Pro (any generation) can be tracked by their left and right earbud. If your earbuds are separated, after a short while, they appear as Left and Right entries in Find My. While you can use Find My on any device to search for them, I found the Mac’s display almost useless; use an iPhone if you can. After selecting the case or left or right earbud, tap Find.

Apple doesn’t provide Precision Finding, but uses relative signal strength to help you get close. You can play a sound on each individually, too, which lets you act like a bat and try to echolocate while using the proximity finder.

Which AirPods can be found how

Audio hardware is all located in the Devices tab or in a Find Devices app. Here’s what and when you’ll view and be able to select:

  • AirPods (1st and 2nd generation) offer only in-range Bluetooth tracking with a paired device.
  • AirPods (3rd generation), AirPods 4 with Active Noise Cancellation, AirPods Pro (all generations), and AirPods Max offer Bluetooth tracking.
  • Several Beats models track via Bluetooth and the Find My network.

Which Beats devices support Find My network? Beats Studio Buds, Beats Flex, Powerbeats, Powerbeats Pro, and Solo Pro.

You can carry out just two actions for all audio devices:

AirPods (3rd generation), AirPods 4 with Active Noise Cancellation, AirPods Pro, and AirPods Max also offer:

Audio devices that can’t be found except within Bluetooth range show just Play Sound and Directions.

Find your lost AirPods with Find My

  1. Open the Find My app on your iPhone.
  2. Tap Devices, then choose your AirPods. If your AirPods are out of the case, you might have to pick the left bud or right bud. With AirPods 4 (ANC) or AirPods Pro 2 and later, you can also separately mark each of your AirPods and the case as lost, in the event that you lose just one or your AirPods are separated from the case.

If your AirPods are separated, choose which bud that you want to find.
3. Find your AirPods on the map.

When your AirPods are nearby, tap Play Sound and listen for the series of beeps.

  • If they aren’t near you, tap Get Directions to open their location in Maps.
  • If you’re nearby, tap Play Sound and listen for the series of beeps.
  • Depending on your AirPods or iPhone model, you might also see an option to Find Nearby. Tap it, wait for your AirPods to connect to your iPhone, then follow the prompts to find your AirPods.

If you don’t have an iPhone or other Apple device to use Find My, you can also find your AirPods at iCloud.com/find — but the experience might be different and some functionality might not be available.

If your AirPods are “Offline” or show “No location found”

  • If your AirPods are out of range or need to charge, you might see their last known location. You might also see “Offline” or “No location found.”
  • You might be able to get directions to their last known location — but you won’t be able to play a sound or use Find Nearby.
  • If they come back online, you get a notification on your iPhone (or other Apple device that you use them with).

If you can’t find your AirPods

  1. Launch the Find My app, then choose your AirPods and swipe up.
  2. Under Lost [device], tap Lost Mode or Show Contact Info.
  3. Follow the onscreen steps to display your contact information. This allows someone to contact you if they find your AirPods.

Be ready next time with the Find My network and Notify When Left Behind

Want to help make sure that you find your AirPods next time?

  • The Find My network is an encrypted, anonymous network of hundreds of millions of Apple devices that can help you find your AirPods, even if they’re offline. Nearby devices securely send the location of your missing AirPods to iCloud, so that you can find where they are. It’s all anonymous and encrypted to protect everyone’s privacy. To make sure it’s turned on: On iPhone, open the Settings app, then tap Bluetooth. Tap the More Info buttonNo alt supplied for Imagenext to your AirPods, then scroll down to Find My network and make sure that it’s turned on.
  • With Notify When Left Behind, your iPhone or Apple Watch can alert you when you leave your supported AirPods at an unknown location.

Turn on Notify When Left Behind to get notifications if you leave your AirPods behind

If you still can’t find your AirPods, you can buy a replacement.

The Find My network might be unavailable in some countries and regions due to local laws.

Most advice covers how you manage your own equipment. It’s incredibly useful to know how other people interact with your stuff when it’s lost or stolen and they find it. This lets you understand how someone might reply to you—by calling, emailing, or posting a note in a neighborhood forum—and what they would see that led them to it.

What a finder sees on an iPhone or Mac

Once the action is sent to an iPhone, iPad, iPod touch, or Apple Watch:

  • If the device is connected to the internet and asleep, the next time it’s woken, a passcode must be entered to gain access.
  • If the device is online and in use, the operating system drops the user into the Lock screen where the passcode-entry dialog or keypad is shown along with any message or phone number that was entered when setting up Lost Mode.
  • If the device is offline, the next time it accesses any network with an internet connection, the passcode lock is put into place.

After a restart, or when the device is powered up after being shut down, your phone number or email address appears on the screen if you provided it, along with the preset message Apple showed during the lock process.

What a finder sees with an AirTag

Because Find My items lack screens, someone finding one that is not marked as lost can bring up certain information from it as described in how to identify an AirTag you have found. However, if you have marked your item lost, by enabling Share Contact Information, a person finding it can see the phone number or email address you entered when activating that mode.

If you find an item for which the owner hasn’t shared their contact information, or you can’t pull up a webpage associated with the device, you could post a description to find that person. Try any number of places: social networks, college forums, NextDoor, Bluesky, Craigslist, or a piece of paper posted around the neighborhood. Describe loosely where it was found and what it looks like.

Someone could confirm ownership of the found item by providing details only the owner might know, like what it was attached to, part of (like a bike), or found along with (like a handbag).

An owner can also provide good evidence of their identity by:

  • Serial number: An AirTag and some third-party devices have serial numbers inscribed in the battery compartment. An owner can pull up a serial number via a Find My app. (See how to identify an AirTag you have found.)
  • Phone number: If you can call someone, great, but if they respond via another method (perhaps their phone was stolen!), they can confirm either the last four digits of their number if the item isn’t marked as lost or their entire phone number if it is.
  • Play sound: If you’re comfortable meeting up with a potential owner who hasn’t fully convinced you, if you’re within Bluetooth range they can trigger the item to play a sound from any Find My app they possess.

Apple has extra cues for someone near any Find My item (or Google Find Hub tracker) separated from its owner to aid that person in realizing there’s a tracker near them, see what an “AirTag Found Moving With You” alert means.

What a finder sees with AirPods

While marking audio hardware as lost follows the same steps as marking an item lost—providing contact information—someone finding your AirPods (3rd generation), AirPods 4 with Active Noise Cancellation, AirPods Pro (all generations), and AirPods Max can obtain information a little more easily.

With any AirPods earbuds, someone can open the case near an unlocked iPhone or iPad. This displays the message that the earbuds are lost, including contact information. With AirPods Max, someone would have to try to pair the headphones with an iPhone or iPad.

Turn on contact info for an item

Under Lost AirTag for Apple AirTags or Lost Item for third-party Find My network accessories, you see Show Contact Info and Share Item Information starting in iOS 18.2/iPadOS 18.2 and 15.2 Sequoia. This also appears for some Apple audio hardware: AirPods (3rd generation), AirPods 4 with Active Noise Cancellation, AirPods Pro (all generations), and AirPods Max.

Show Contact Info is the item equivalent of marking a device as lost. For more on Share Item Information, see how to track lost luggage with an AirTag.

Using Show Contact Info effectively marks the item as lost, but because it lacks features available for hardware with a screen, I can see why Apple chose to relabel it.

Here’s how to mark an item or audio hardware as lost on an iPhone, iPad, or Mac:

  1. Beneath Lost AirTag, Lost Item, or Lost Accessory, tap or click Show Contact Info. (In macOS 26 and earlier with audio hardware, you can also Control-click/right-click and choose Mark as Lost.)
  2. After reading the details about what will happen when you turn on contact info, tap Continue.
  3. Audio hardware shows a more lengthy set of info. Tap or click the Close button to back out.

If the item is in Bluetooth range of any of your devices, you receive an error: “Item Is With You” that reads “This feature is only available for items that are lost and not located in close proximity to you.” You cannot proceed and can only tap or click OK.

On an Apple Watch, select your item or supported audio device, tap Lost Mode, and then tap the switch to enable it. You’re then prompted to enter a phone number or email address. (With watchOS 26 or earlier, use the Find Items app for items, and the Find Devices app for audio hardware.)

When an item’s or accessory’s status is updated, you should receive a notification.

When the device comes into proximity with you again—within Bluetooth range of one of your devices—sharing contact information is disabled. If you shared a temporary link, that link becomes inactive at the same time.

The Find My app’s Devices view and the Find Devices web app initially show a zoomed-out map plotting all your devices that are close to you and within reasonable proximity, as with people. If you’re in a Family Sharing group, you can see all devices of members in your group sharing their location with you. That can be quite a few devices. On an Apple Watch, you can only view a list and tap to see a map.

Any iPhone, iPad, Mac, or Apple Watch you own will appear as a device, along with all Apple and Beats audio devices. Because audio-device tracking has become more useful and differentiated over time, AirPods are covered separately.

The list is organized by person for Family Sharing with you at the top. As with People, each device shows the name assigned to it, a rough location, the last update, and its approximate distance from your location.

Your location is also plotted on the map as a blue dot if you’re near or between any of your devices, as is likely.

Find My doesn’t differentiate devices based on whether they’re located via an internet connection, proximity to your equipment, or the Find My network.

Select a device in the list or on the map, and Find My zooms in to center it in the map, typically showing it within a rectangle shaped by a radius of about 1/4 to 1/2 mile (400 m to 800 m). In the version 27 releases, select the device again to have the map zoom out.

You can take action on the device like this:

  • On an iPhone or iPad or macOS 27: Select a device and view the actions available in its sheet. Tap or click the close button in the upper-right corner to return to the full list.
  • On macOS 26 or earlier: After selecting a device, click the Info button to the right of the device name in macOS. Click anywhere but in the actions sheet in macOS to dismiss it.
  • On an Apple Watch: Tap the device and scroll down for actions. Tap the back arrow button to return to the main view.
  • On iCloud.com: A sheet appears in the upper-left corner of the webpage when you select a device.

Only the Directions options and the Notifications label (with different options) also appear in the People View.

Here’s what you can view or select from in Devices:

The top of the Find My sheet of actions shows a graphical depiction of the battery level for an iPhone, iPad, Apple Watch, or Mac laptop. Audio devices’ battery levels are not displayed.

Find My shows the device’s location on the map as a dot with its model icon above it. The dot is the center of a blue-shaded area if a device can be pinpointed; otherwise, the shaded area is larger and green. The shading radius indicates the level of confidence in the location.

Devices are listed even if they haven’t connected for months—or years! If it’s been longer than 24 hours, they appear as “No location found.” (For the full status rundown, see how to read the Find My app’s status labels.)

To remove old devices, see how Activation Lock protects a lost or stolen device.

Find a device you cannot reach

Here’s how to help someone else find their lost device—or find your own when you don’t have one of your devices at hand:

  • Family Sharing: Use the Find My app on a device or the Find Devices web app at iCloud.com from a group account with which the missing device’s owner has enabled sharing.
  • iCloud.com: For all other uses, turn to the Find Devices web app at https://www.icloud.com/find.

Some actions are limited: on the sheet for a device, you can play a sound, mark as lost, or enable notifications when found for your or anyone’s device using the Find My app on any device in the Family Sharing group. To erase a device, Find My prompts for the Apple Account password of the associated account.

If you cannot pass two-factor authentication

Apple requires two-factor authentication (2FA) for nearly all Apple Accounts—it’s useful in resisting account hijacking. However, it complicates using Find My if you (or someone you’re helping) don’t have access to any trusted, or Apple Account-linked, devices or phone numbers. Here are three approaches to set up in advance:

  • Add a trusted phone number for people you trust: You can add a phone number for a partner, family member, close friend, or even an attorney or other professional you could contact in an emergency. Then, as long as you remember your Apple Account password, you can select that other person’s phone number in the 2FA validation process and they can provide you the code.
  • Create a passkey for your Apple Account: Apple lets you bypass two-factor authentication if you enable a passkey. While a passkey is typically stored on your iCloud-synced devices, you can use some password managers to store one instead.
  • Use a hardware encryption key: Apple lets you rely on hardware encryption keys for Apple Account access. As long as you still have one of the keys you set, you’re not locked out of iCloud.

Find My lets you take a variety of remote actions on devices and short-range actions on items. Options vary in utility based on whether your device has fallen behind a couch cushion, or has been misplaced or stolen, and whether the device or item is directly reachable via a local network, the internet, or the Find My network. With devices, Apple follows up many actions with an email message sent to your Apple Account’s associated address.

You can set up notifications within Find My to provide a variety of information depending on the category:

  • People: You can opt to receive alerts when they arrive and leave locations you define, or send them alerts based on your location.
  • Devices and Items: You can be notified when a device is found if it’s marked as lost. You can also receive a prompt when you leave something behind.

People-based notifications let you track when someone (including you) arrives at or leaves a location. The alert can be set once or on a recurring basis. Here’s what to do:

  1. In a native Find My app on an iPhone, iPad, or Mac, bring up the sheet of actions for a person via the Person view.
  2. In the version 27 releases, beneath either Notify Me or Notify Person, tap or click Add Location Alert. In earlier releases, beneath Notifications, first tap or click Add, then select Notify Me or Notify Person.
  3. For Notify Me, you can select I Arrive or I Leave; for Notify Person, you can select Person Arrives, Person Leaves, or Person Is Not At.
  4. Pick a location. Some locations will be prefilled, such as you or another person’s current location.
    • You can also tap or click New Location, then drag on the map or enter a location.
    • Clicking or tapping in the search field brings up potential matches from the person’s contact card before you start typing.
  5. Optionally set a radius. Tap Small, Medium, or Large at the bottom of the map to switch among radii of 300, 800, and 1,250 feet (90 m, 240 m, and 380 m).
    • Or drag the blue dot at the right out to a preferred distance; a label indicates the radius as you drag.
    • The minimum is a 300-foot (90 m) radius. The maximum is 792,000 feet — 150 miles or 241 km.
    • A wider area prevents excessive notifications for departures, or gives earlier warning of an arrival.
  6. Your final option varies based on the Arrives/Leaves/Is Not At selection:
    • For yourself or someone else, Arrives/Leaves lets you pick Only Once or Every Time for notification frequency.
    • For another person with Person Is Not At chosen, you can set a range of time and days of the week.
  7. Click or tap Add to complete. If you set this up to track someone else, they now receive a notification that you’ve done so.

If you’ve asked your child to remain within a certain distance of home, or want to know when they’re returning so you can hide the liquor—er, clean up around you—then changing the radius is useful. However, an older child might employ a Cat in the Hat strategy towards a parent.

This map selection tool is also used with Notify When Left Behind, a way Apple helps you avoid accidentally losing stuff.

Is Not At could be useful with an employee or child to know when they’re not in a place you expect at certain times.

The other person is always told

When you let other people know what you’re up to with notifications, they receive an alert that tells them what they can expect to receive. This appears across your devices and is an anti-stalking measure; see how to check whether someone is tracking you.

Your Apple Watch lets you notify or be notified about people’s locations, but it’s limited to Notify Me/Notify Person with two options. You can notify someone when you leave your location or arrive at theirs, or when they leave their location or arrive at yours. You can’t select locations or set up other nuances below.

If you want to see notifications about someone else’s comings and goings, you’re told what they will be informed of and given a chance to cancel, and they receive a notification about what you’ll be updated about.

For recurring alerts set to Every Time, you’re told that someone has to approve the action. The notification is slightly different for Person Is Not At recurring alerts, specifying that the other person will be notified at the moment the schedule first goes into effect. So if you set the schedule to Wednesday at 9 a.m. and it’s Sunday night, the alert will say a request will be sent for approval at 9 a.m. Wednesday. (The time zone will be whatever time zone the location you set is in, not your or the other person’s current time zone.)

For notifications that require permission, you see a Pending Request label on that person’s sheet of actions.

It can be useful to pause notifications for a lot of reasons; tap or click Pause to pick a time to resume: either “Until the end of Today” or from a calendar.

You can freak someone out by creating a notification without alerting them first. When you use Find My to track someone’s arrival or departure, that person receives a notification that you’ve done so. This can happen in the most benign circumstances.

After my wife texted that she was coming home with oodles of groceries a couple of years ago, I created a notification to alert me when she got home so I’d break off what I was doing and go down a couple of flights of stairs to the street level to help her. She was surprised by the alert she had received. At that time, Apple had just changed their system to provide this disclosure to others.

That disclosure is quite useful, because tracking can be used in non-benign situations, too: see how to check whether someone is tracking you.

Once you invoke Siri using any of the many methods, you can start asking questions or asking Siri to perform tasks.

There’s a little nuance to how Siri answers. If you type your query in, for example, a Search or Ask field, then as you type—just as with previous versions—Spotlight finds local files and apps, images in Photos, tasks from Reminders, contact cards, App Store matches, and so forth. These start to display immediately.

If Siri identifies a search that appears Spotlight-focused, it presents a blue search button in the lower-right corner on an iPhone or iPad; on a Mac, there’s no indicator. More exact matches offer a suggestion as a completion after a long dash in gray text. If you type photoshop on a Mac with Adobe Photoshop installed, you see “photoshop — Adobe Photoshop 2025.a…” with everything after photoshop in gray.

However, if you type a question, more words, or something ambiguous, “— Ask Siri” appears in gray. On an iPhone or iPad, the search button turns into an arrow button—an Ask button, we assume. Tap the arrow button or, on a Mac, press Return, to trigger a Siri response to what you typed.

On all three kinds of devices, a Show Results button with overlapping icons—representing the kinds of items found—may appear below the Siri field. On the Mac, we saw it appear briefly before showing a scrolling results list as with Spotlight.

This automatic recognition of your query type means you don’t have to think about how you formulate a search or question: type what you want and let Siri figure it out. If the results list for a search doesn’t suffice, elaborate on what you’re asking.

You can broadly ask Siri these kinds of things:

  • Find something or analyze something on my device or in my personal information that’s available on this device, like text in Notes, events in Calendar, text recognized in Photos, and so on. (See how Siri AI and Spotlight merged.)
  • Provide me an answer about something that doesn’t necessarily include any of my personal data, or may not need to.
  • Make me an image of something I describe.

That’s all very general. What are specific kinds of queries you might make? Remember that the data has to exist for Siri to answer. We rely on a third-party email client, so Siri seems to have limited access to our email stores for now. But nearly everything else we do is stored in and synced by iCloud.

Here are a handful of examples of the wide range of questions you can ask and commands you can make, as the list is effectively endless:

  • What movie am I thinking of? It has Harry Lime in it. As you may have found with other chatbots, Siri can take a small amount of factual information and work like a memory aid by filling in the gaps, or asking clarifying questions. (Answer: The Third Man.)
  • Summarize my conversation last week with *name*. We found this particularly useful because, in testing, Siri did seem to figure out the most important things talked about, provide a solid analysis of the topics, and link to individual messages.
  • Start a timer for *time units. You can specify any time in any units. We tried 13 1/2* and it was interpreted correctly.
  • How many times did I go out for lunch this year? Siri pulled information from one of our calendars but also from a shared calendar used by a spouse. It also didn’t necessarily identify things that weren’t labeled “lunch” but were midday meal dates.
  • How do I clean a toilet that has a seemingly permanent stain inside the bowl? Siri can consult external sources and stuff that’s in its outboard LLM brain in the cloud to give you ideas for what to try.
  • Create an album containing all the images that I took in June 2024. Siri adds an album to Photos, and provides a link you can click to view that album in Photos.
  • Did I receive a birthday party invitation recently? Siri gave one of us a summary derived from a mix of emails and messages, correctly identifying two recent invitations for events that had already passed, while noting that it saw nothing upcoming.
  • What are some times I have nothing scheduled between 10 and noon next week? Siri offers a list of days in which that condition is true, but also shows the conflicts that impinge on that range on some days.
  • How do I feel about *person*? This is a question you might ask to test out the way Siri AI “thinks,” and we were surprised to find that it did a great job at accurately, if effusively, summarizing our interactions with a person by looking at email, messages, and other cues.
  • Make a picture of a nice lasagna dinner in a photorealistic style. While we have all sorts of feelings about this, it’s definitely something you can do. (See the Apple Intelligence features to skip.)

One of us attended a 60th birthday party recently, where former officemates regaled attendees with the celebrant’s early use of voice-recognition software. He had trained it so he could say “paste”—or rather, “Paste. Paste. PASTE!!!”—to perform that command and so on. The wits in the office would walk by and yell “erase hard drive! OK! Approve! OK!”

You don’t want to upgrade without a backup from the last state of your iPhone or iPad on hand. You can create a fresh backup via iCloud or by connecting to a Mac or Windows PC.

Back up with iCloud

Your easiest path to a backup is via iCloud. Not only is it faster and simpler, but Apple also provides better support for restoring to your device if needed.

If it’s your first time making an iCloud backup, follow these steps:

  1. Go to Settings > Your Name > iCloud > iCloud Backup.
  2. Enable Back Up This iPhone or Back Up This iPad.
  3. Tap Back Up Now.

If you aren’t already making iCloud Backups, you should have at least as much available storage at iCloud+ as the size of your device’s data set, excluding iCloud Photos. That may require upgrading your iCloud+ plan from, say, 200 GB to 2 TB. You can estimate what space you need by looking at Settings > General > About > iPhone or iPad Storage.

If you already have iCloud Backup enabled, go to the iCloud Backup section and tap Back Up Now.

Your iPhone or iPad shows a Backing Up label and a Cancel Backup link while the backup is in progress. A bar shows an “Estimating time remaining” message until all changes are collected, at which time it shows a rough countdown and a progress bar.

When the backup is successfully completed, you see “Last successful backup” with the current time or a moment ago. You can now proceed.

Back up with a Mac

While iCloud might be best, you can also back your iPhone or iPad up using a Mac. Start by connecting your device with a USB to a Mac unless you’ve already enabled Wi-Fi syncing and prefer that method.

To enable Wi-Fi syncing, you first connect with USB. Then, after selecting the device in the Finder’s sidebar, check the “Show this Device when on Wi-Fi” box in the General view and click Apply.

To back up to a Mac:

  1. Click your device in Finder’s sidebar.
  2. You may be prompted to have each device trust each other with a Trust button. Click and/or tap Trust. Enter your iPhone or iPad passphrase, if required.
  3. On the device’s General tab in the Finder, select “Back up all of the data on your Device to this Mac.”
  4. Click Back Up Now.

The General tab also shows the time of last iCloud backup for a connected device.

Back up to a Windows PC

Apple offers the Apple Devices app for Windows, which enables backups as easy as those offered on a Mac. First, install Apple Devices before proceeding. Next, follow these steps:

  1. Connect your iPhone or iPad to your PC with a USB cable.
  2. Open Apple Devices.
  3. You may be prompted to have each device trust each other with a Trust button. Click and/or tap Trust. Enter your iPhone or iPad passphrase, if required.
  4. Select General in the lefthand sidebar in Apple Devices.
  5. Select “Back up all of the data on your Device to this computer.”
  6. Click Back Up Now.

Install the upgrade

With a backup in hand, you can now install iOS 27 or iPadOS 27. Here’s how:

  1. Go to Settings > General > Software Update.
  2. Tap either Install Now or Download and Install.

You may be prompted to offload some apps if your device lacks enough storage to handle the upgrade. Offloading an app deletes the app, but not its data, from your device. After the update completes, the apps are reinstalled automatically.

It usually takes from about 10 to 30 minutes for your device to complete the steps necessary to verify, install, and restart. However, in case of delays or problems, you should plan on it taking up to a couple of hours.

The verification can take a considerable time when huge numbers of users are installing all at once, such as on release day. You may want to upgrade your devices in the evening or on a weekend.

Be sure to keep your iPhone or iPad plugged in while the upgrade is underway to avoid an interruption.

Your device may feel very hot to the touch, sometimes even uncomfortably so, during the installation and restore, as your iPhone or iPad works at full bore.

After the upgrade is complete, your device has restarted, and you’ve entered your passcode, the operating system walks you through a few screens describing major changes.

You may also be asked for preferences you chose before in previous upgrades, such as Light Mode, Dark Mode, or Automatic. During this process, you may also be asked to allow your device to send analytics to Apple and some reporting to third-party developers. I tend to allow Apple and disallow developers for privacy reasons.

When this process is done, you’re ready to use iOS 27 or iPadOS 27.

Optimizing search and Siri

On a device with Apple Intelligence support, you can’t access all features until “optimization” is complete. This may take a serious amount of time. While underway, a message appears near the top of Settings. (During testing, this remained in place on a test phone with almost no personal data on it for over a day.)

For more on what that indexing enables, see what Siri AI means for your iPhone and iPad.

Few interface changes Apple has made have been more criticized than their introduction of Liquid Glass in their version 26 operating system releases; few have been more praised than bringing a full-featured windowing environment to iPadOS 26.

Apple has learned from both changes and added maturity to them. Liquid Glass can now be practically disabled—almost turned off with Reduce Transparency—while the iPad received many more minor changes that are welcome, but not critical.

The introduction of Liquid Glass across Apple’s 26 releases of their operating systems elicited a lot of responses. A whole lot. It’s hard to know how hated this new interface approach was, but given how quickly Apple backed off from it, I would have to say a lot—particularly in iOS and iPadOS, where the translucency of Liquid Glass made it hard to find interface elements and read text.

Apple reacted by adding a feature in iOS 26.1/iPadOS 26.1 to reduce its impact by letting you switch between Clear, which was the original flavor of Liquid Glass, to Tinted, which reduced translucency by a fair amount, but not to zero.

In iOS 27/iPadOS 27, Apple switched up their approach, replacing the binary option with a slider from (now lowercase) clear to tinted, along with a preview of how it looks against interface elements.

If you want to go down to as close to zero Liquid Glass as possible, Reduce Transparency is still available, as described below.

Pick from more clear to more tinted

When you upgrade to iOS 27 or iPadOS 27, the last stages of the installation present a new screen that lets you choose to adjust Liquid Glass using a slider. If you don’t make the adjustment at that moment, you can do so later, or change your initial choice. Go to Settings > Appearance > Liquid Glass.

This new screen offers a slider you can drag from the left edge, which Apple describes as “More Clear” (most Liquid Glass effect) across a range to the right: “More Tinted” (most opaque). Apple makes it easy to visualize by providing a scrollable preview that shows Liquid Glass elements overlaid on a webpage with images and text.

At the More Clear setting, you can hardly read—or even find—the button and field over text and an image. The midway point is better, but still not ideal. More Tinted provides enough contrast for legibility. To me, this looks like what an interface designer would show an executive, expecting the executive to pick the most opaque option. Apple’s leadership didn’t do that for 26.0. In 26.1, we got a binary choice; in 27, a range of choices.

You can’t change the Liquid Glass intensity when either of the next two options is enabled. When you attempt to change the Liquid Glass setting, you’re told that Reduce Transparency and Increase Contrast must be disabled. You can tap Turn Off.

Remove even more transparency

Apple separately offers two Accessibility settings that affected Liquid Glass in iOS 26 and iPadOS 26. In the 27 releases, only one of the two has any real impact:

  • Reduce Transparency: Go to Settings > Accessibility > Display & Text Size and enable Reduce Transparency. This flattens Liquid Glass, removing transparency and providing an almost identical look to iOS 18/iPadOS 18. The level of Liquid Glass you have enabled doesn’t have an effect.
  • Increase Contrast: Use Settings > Accessibility > Display & Text Size > Increase Contrast to bump up the difference in tones. In iOS 27/iPadOS 27, the difference appears slight, where it was sharply distinct in the previous releases.

Screen Time was created to let parents and guardians set policies for children that were automatically enforced by Apple’s operating systems. No matter what device a child used that was logged in to the same Apple Account, Screen Time restrictions would remain the same. In practice, not so much, and it remains to be seen how well this Apple-described redesign will improve that consistency.

Screen Time controls require that you set up a Child Account, which has to be part of Family Sharing. In the past, I know that parents have sometimes created regular accounts for their children or faked their birth dates to make them older out of frustration with Screen Time and other features that didn’t work as described.

A new tool for parents helps guide them in choosing apps they want their children to have access to.

Work with Ask to Browse

Apple already offered an Ask to Buy option, which let a kid send a request to the account’s owner in the Family Sharing group when they want to make an App Store purchase or download a free app. Ask to Browse builds on that, requiring that child request access to any website they haven’t previously been granted permission to use, or that a parent hadn’t already added to a list of acceptable sites.

The request is sent via Messages to the adult owner of the Family Sharing group and any other adult designated as Parent/Guardian. The parent or guardian can then tap or click Decline or Approve.

Set time per category

The previous Screen Time controls for setting how much time apps and other resources could be used were difficult to manage. The new ones, synced across all platforms, let a parent set Time Allowances, with separate settings for weekdays and weekends. Apple has a recommended maximum based on age that they developed in conjunction with child-development experts, they say.

Time Allowances define the total screen time permitted per day, and then are divided up into maximum amounts by category: Entertainment, Games, Social Media, and All Others. Parents can further create time windows within the days during which some categories aren’t available. Apple’s own example is to turn off the Entertainment, Games, and Social Media categories during school hours.

This overhauled approach also gives parents a sort of dashboard for each child. They can see current usage stats. That’s also where a child’s access can be paused—i.e., cut off entirely for the moment—or they can be granted unlimited use for the rest of the day, or until a parent revokes that.

Apple has also widened what gets blurred for children in this release, which is covered in how iOS 27 blurs gore and violence.

iOS 27 and iPadOS 27 have minimum hardware requirements. You won’t be able to upgrade any iPhone or iPad that isn’t a supported model. There are further limitations to using Apple Intelligence, which requires certain processor features and applies only to a subset of iPhones and iPads that can install iOS 27 and iPadOS 27.

Check your iPhone for compatibility

You can upgrade to iOS 27 on any of these iPhone series or models, the same as with iOS 26:

  • iPhone 11 series or later
  • iPhone XS series
  • iPhone SE (2nd generation or later)

If you’re not sure which iPhone model you have, go to Settings > General > About and check the Model Name entry.

Check your iPad for compatibility

iPadOS 27 will install on these models of iPads, with their minimum generation noted for each, the same list as with iPadOS 26:

  • iPad Pro 12.9-inch (3rd generation and later)
  • iPad Pro 11-inch (1st generation and later)
  • iPad Air (3rd generation and later, including M2)
  • iPad (8th generation and later)
  • iPad mini (5th generation and later)

If you’re not sure which generation your iPad is, look at Settings > General > About > Model Name.

Check whether you can use Apple Intelligence

Your device must meet minimum hardware requirements to use Apple Intelligence, which is interleaved more thoroughly in apps and in the system in iOS 27 and iPadOS 27 than in previous releases. That includes the upgrade to Siri, now called Siri AI. To use Apple Intelligence and Siri AI you need:

  • An iPhone 15 Pro, iPhone 15 Pro Max, iPhone Air, or any iPhone 16 or 17 model
  • An iPad mini from 2024 or later (A17 Pro)
  • Any iPad with an M1 or later processor

iPad models with an Apple silicon M-series chip are the 11-inch iPad Pro, 3rd generation and later; the 12.9-inch iPad Pro, 5th generation and later; and the iPad Air, 5th generation and later.

Several features need Apple Intelligence, and thus a supported iPhone or iPad—such as Spatial Reframing in Photos, or Call Context for surfacing relevant information when using the Phone app.

Siri AI’s most advanced on-device version, which includes improved dictation and an “expressive” custom Siri voice, has even higher minimum requirements. Those features are available only on:

  • iPhone Air, iPhone 17 Pro, iPhone 17 Pro Max
  • iPads with an M4 and later and 12 GB or more of unified memory, which excludes the 11-inch and 13-inch iPad Pro models with 256 GB and 512 GB of storage from 2024

If your device is on the list, installing iOS 27 is the next step.