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Find My is a clever interconnected system that emphasizes privacy while also providing often near-continuous location tracking.

Find My lets you discover the current or last known location across three categories:

  • People: If other people have shared their location with you, you can see their current position, derived from Apple devices they carry and how they chose to indicate their presence. You can also share your location with others.

If you share Find My items, they don’t reveal someone’s shared location, only the items’ location or locations; see below.

  • Devices: Apple lets you track Apple-made devices (their term for this category) connected to your iCloud account or, as with Apple/Beats audio hardware, paired with an iPhone or iPad. If you’re in a Family Sharing group and members of the group have shared their location with you, you can also see the locations of their devices.
  • Items: You can deploy low-power, non-networked tracking devices, like the Apple AirTag, on or in your stuff, and find their locations on your devices by relying on a crowdsourced system. You can opt to share the locations of these with up to five other people. Apple refers to this category as items.

Hardware support for Find My services covers a variety of equipment, each of which may have a different set of remote capabilities and limitations. This support affects how your location and that of other people who share their position with you may be viewed, too. The hardware differences are as follows:

  • iPhone, iPad, Mac, and Apple Watch: You can see the device’s location. If it can connect to the internet, you can also play a sound on it, lock it or mark it lost, or erase it. (An Apple Watch picks up this setting from the iPhone with which it’s paired.) These devices are also relied on to locate you for someone else on a Find My map, or to identify other people’s location shared with you.

U.S. phone carriers also offer phone-tracking services, which can work across a family account and different smartphones and dumb phones. Each comes with a separate fee and various enhancements and limitations. If everyone in your family is using an iPhone, there is no advantage to the carrier’s plan.

  • AirPods and supported Beats devices: When paired with an iPhone or iPad, Find My is automatically enabled for all Apple audio hardware and most Beats devices. If you have Apple or Beats earbuds, check whether the earbuds, charging case, or both are tracked—it varies. For instance, the AirPods 4 (Active Noise Cancellation or ANC) and AirPods Pro 2 and later can track each earbud and the case separately, marking each as lost as well. Audio hardware appears in the Devices tab or in Find Devices apps.
  • AirTag: An AirTag’s location may be tracked via ultra-wideband (UWB) wireless and Bluetooth over inches to hundreds of feet (centimeters to tens of meters) from a nearby paired iPhone or iPad; or from anywhere, whenever it’s away from you and near anyone’s iPhone, iPad, or Mac that has an internet connection and has enabled Find My network participation. An AirTag can’t receive commands via the internet, but it can over Bluetooth. (See how the Find My network tracks a lost AirTag.)
  • Third-party items: Apple allows other companies to embed Find My technology inside their products. These products must be paired with an iPhone or iPad and, just like AirTags, can be found within Bluetooth range of paired devices and broadcast their secret identifier to other people’s iPhones, iPads, or Macs with Find My network enabled.

Some third-party Find My devices have a hybrid mode: they support Find My network features for Bluetooth and crowdsourcing but have their own set of features that works only over Bluetooth. The bike-attached Knog Scout, for instance, has a motion alarm that can be set by hand or via Bluetooth, and delivers an alert within Bluetooth range.

How Find My works out where a device is

Find My’s device-based tracking and personal location sharing relies on an iPhone, iPad, Mac, or Apple Watch sending Apple’s servers a regular update of their location derived from Wi-Fi and cellular data and GPS signals. All devices with Find My support provide details using Wi-Fi; iPhones and cellular iPads and Apple Watches add cellular radios and GPS.

With Find My active on a device with GPS, that device pulls down location information from the global satellite network. If it also has a cellular radio, it can derive location information from nearby cell phone towers. The Find My system on the device regularly sends location updates over a Wi-Fi or cellular network, allowing a fairly precise position to be calculated via trilateration.

You may be more familiar with the term triangulation, which relies on known fixed positions and angle measurements, such as using landmarks. Trilateration uses the intersection of geometric areas, such as the signal-strength radius from cell towers. (A researcher whose work played a key role in developing trilateration for GPS, Gladys West, died at 95 on January 17, 2026.)

All iPhones, iPads, and Macs also scan for nearby Wi-Fi networks and send a snapshot of that information to an online system run by Apple whenever the device has an internet connection.

Apple integrates that with information fed to it by iPhones and iPads with GPS and examines the signal strength of Wi-Fi gateways, allowing it to figure out fairly precisely where each is located. (Gateways broadcast a unique hardware network identifier along with a network name, which can be scanned without connecting to a network.)

Apple caches some information about location on the phone for up to seven days to avoid frequent network access to look up information, or to use Wi-Fi positioning in an area you’ve been in recently, even if you don’t have current internet access.

This is a two-way connection: through the Find My app’s Device tab or a Find Devices app, you can push a sound and message, as well as lock or erase the hardware.

Using Find My also tells your remote devices you’re looking for them, and when they receive that message, they update their position more frequently, typically even when they’re in standby mode. There’s a flaw with this finding process: a lookup requires an active connection.

Which device stands in for you

Use the Me view in the full Find My apps to see how your devices locate you:

  • On an iPhone, iPad, or in macOS 27, tap or click the Me button.
  • In macOS 26 or earlier, click People, click Me, and click the Info button next to your avatar on the map.
  • On an Apple Watch with watchOS 27, tap People and then tap Me. With watchOS 26 or earlier, tap the Me entry in Find People.

Details about how your location is derived appear under My Location. Your current location appears with an address, a map, or a label like Home if you’ve defined it in Find My (see how to see someone’s location). To the right of or below the Sharing From label, you see the location used to derive your location as shared with other people. If it’s literally the current device, it’s shown as This Device, like “This iPhone”. Otherwise, the device name appears.

Find My determines a person’s location by picking one device that the person owns as representing their presence: the person is assumed to be wherever that device is. If you own at least one iPhone, Apple picks your primary iPhone for presence by default. A person’s current location always reflects the device’s updated location.

Apple lets you switch presence among any iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch you own; Macs and Apple Watches don’t qualify. You can’t change presence from the current device that’s providing it. Instead, go to the device you want to use. In the Me view, tap Use This Device Name as My Location.

If you own a cellular Apple Watch and the paired phone is set to My Location, Find My switches to the watch as your current location when it’s on your wrist and you’re out of Bluetooth range of your iPhone.

Apple shares people’s locations in Find My as “continuous streaming updates” if they’re on a robust enough connection and have enough battery life, seemingly depending on other variables. You can see the difference when you’re looking at the device’s details: a label with the last updated time will show Now if it’s recent—typically within the last minute—and Live if it’s currently streaming. (See how to read the Find My app’s status labels.)

The three apps, and their limits

You access Find My through three kinds of apps:

  • Full-featured Find My native app: The Find My app for iPhone, iPad, Mac, and Apple Watch (watchOS 27) provides access to all categories of items.
  • Find Devices, Find People, and Find Items apps for Apple Watch (watchOS 26 and earlier): Apple previously split up the single Find My app into three smaller apps, one of each category, on an Apple Watch.
  • Find Devices web app: iCloud.com offers a “Find My” app called Find Devices, which locates only devices and audio hardware.

Devices and items appear in Find My apps in the following circumstances:

  • Family Sharing: If you have Family Sharing enabled, you can see the location of the devices of any member who is sharing their location with you. This includes audio hardware. You can view their devices in any Find My app, including the web app. The same is true for anyone in the group with whom you share your location. (On an Apple Watch, you have to tap Show Family Devices.) If they aren’t sharing the location, you still see the device. To take action on their device, such as marking it as lost, you need the other person’s Apple Account password.

Family Sharing doesn’t automatically share a person’s location, even though you can see all their devices.

  • Find My item sharing: You can share or have shared with you any Find My item. This is entirely unrelated to Family Sharing. A Find My item can be shared with up to five other people, and each item can be shared with a different set of people. Shared items appear in the Items view in any Find My native app—but not the web app.

Apple’s central user account, Apple Account, is how you access Find My on devices, indirectly via items, and through the iCloud.com website. When you’re signed in to this account from a device and have Find My enabled, all your other devices, your account at iCloud.com, and people in your Family Sharing group with whom you’ve shared your location have access to the location of that device. Find My items paired with an iPhone or iPad are available from native Find My apps via the same Apple Account connection.

Apple’s two-factor authentication for Apple Account can trip up family members trying to help you recover a lost item. See how to find a lost iPhone, Mac or AirPods for how to prepare.

How far back Find My works

Find My Device has a surprisingly long look-back. It works on iPhones and iPads running iOS 5 or later; for marking as lost, iOS 6 is the minimum; for Activation Lock, iOS 7. Any version of watchOS can use Find My, as it’s relayed via an iPhone. On Macs, OS X 10.7.5 Lion or later is required.

The only significant version-based limitation is that to receive alerts about Google trackers near you or traveling near you, you must have an iPhone or iPad with iOS 17.5/iPadOS 17.5 or later installed.

It took a little while after Google’s introduction of the Google Find Hub in 2024 for third-party manufacturers to ramp up production of compatible trackers. At first, several companies released Find Hub versions alongside existing Apple Find My items. However, over the last year, many companies have gone a step further and developed trackers with components for both networks.

This reduces the SKU (stock-keeping unit) count for makers—it’s cheaper to produce a bunch of one thing and keep it in stock than two things and have to guess at production. As a user, you can buy a multi-pack and not worry about compatibility. During setup, you can activate the device on just one of the two ecosystems. But you can later reset it, then configure it for the other one.

Apple builds in a huge array of tools that help if your device is physically compromised, as when someone gains access to your iPhone or computer without your permission, someone takes your device away without your knowledge or steals it in order to try to break into it, or when someone extracts hardware (like a drive) from your Mac.

Apple created the chip-based Secure Enclave technology for iPhones and iPads, then expanded it for Macs starting with Intel models. It’s an integral part of Apple silicon Macs. Secure Enclave was a big improvement for device security and data integrity.

Apple created the Secure Enclave coprocessor, first for the iPhone, as a way to provide a tamper-resistant one-way vault to handle encryption secrets, biometric information, and many kinds of private data. The design of the Secure Enclave prevents Apple from accessing information inside it, so the chip that contains it can’t be removed or manipulated without almost always destroying its contents.

Technically, the Secure Enclave is a component of a system-on-chip (SoC), a single piece of silicon that integrates all the functions that previously required separate silicon, such as a CPU, memory, and various I/O chips.

The Secure Enclave coprocessor is part of all Apple silicon Macs. It’s also found in Intel Macs with the T1 chip (for the Touch Bar) or T2 Security Chip; Apple’s support site lists the starting models. All Macs that can run Sonoma or later have a Secure Enclave. You can install macOS 26 Tahoe on all Apple silicon Macs, but only the last series of Intel models support it; macOS 27 Golden Gate works only on Apple silicon Macs. (Most Macs with a Secure Enclave can run macOS 14 Sonoma or later, but fewer work with Tahoe.)

All iPhones from the iPhone 5s onward have it, as do all iPad models introduced since the iPad Air in 2013.

Not surprisingly, Apple’s other devices with its A-series mobile chips also have a Secure Enclave: the Apple TV (HD and later), Apple Watch (all models), and HomePod (all models).

The Secure Enclave is used for a number of different purposes, some of which are directly relevant to this chapter:

  • Touch ID/Face ID: Fingerprints are enrolled and stored securely within, and logins send patterns to the Secure Enclave to match.

Note: The Magic Keyboard with Touch ID enables fingerprint recognition on Apple silicon Macs by pairing directly with the Secure Enclave in a proprietary secure wireless process.

  • SSD encryption: All iPhones and iPads with a Secure Enclave encrypt all data stored on their invisible “startup volume.” All Macs with a T2 chip or Apple silicon processor have an internal SSD startup volume, and that volume has always-on, hardware-based disk encryption.
  • Storage of encryption keys: Apple uses the Secure Enclave to keep the raw stuff of encryption unavailable to anyone—even Apple. Developers can also make use of the Secure Enclave for keys they want their apps to store.
  • Boot integrity (Mac): The Secure Enclave has some hardcoded information that prevents subverting a Mac when it starts up. Startup is a bootstrap process, like “pulling oneself up by one’s bootstraps.” Little bits of software get more complicated pieces of software running in a cascade until the OS is running. With the Secure Enclave, the first stage is loaded from read-only memory—instructions burned permanently into silicon—and each subsequent stage relies on encrypted validation to avoid hijacking.

Secure Enclave has no management associated with it that you have access to. It’s just neatly there carrying out cryptographic and validation operations behind the scenes.

Memory Integrity Enforcement

Starting with A19- and M5-family devices—the iPhone 17, iPhone Air, and M5-based Macs—Apple built in an extra tier of exploit protection called Memory Integrity Enforcement (MIE). Because of Apple’s system architecture and security focus, they have avoided large-scale malware attacks on their platforms that have plagued other companies. Generally, most of us are safe nearly all of the time from all but phishing attacks.

But it doesn’t mean your devices are immune! Smart companies look at the edges to see what’s missing to fill in the picture, and that’s what MIE does, although this may never have an impact on you. MIE is designed to block particular kinds of “mercenary spyware,” as Apple terms it: products designed to execute against specific targets, developed by companies and sold to governments, or created inside government agencies.

For a computing device to run software, the software must be loaded into memory. From memory, the operating system executes code, which carries out operations, including reading from and writing to memory, a video display, external storage, a network, and more. Memory is divided by the system into what used to be logical chunks—that is, the operating system defined these, but there wasn’t a particular prohibition against software writing in any place in memory. Some parts of memory help the operating system; some are drivers or code that manage interactions with hardware; and some are designed for user space, meant for user-loaded programs and data.

Over decades, that’s changed, where the operating system and hardware restrict how different components of a system and loaded software can write to memory. These restrictions have increasingly reduced the attack surface of malware by making it harder for an attacker to circumvent the operating system and run code where they want.

MIE blocks a common form of exploit, in which an attacker pushes more information into a response or request than the code executing it can handle. This can result in a buffer overflow, in which data spills past the end of the chunk of memory set aside for it and corrupts whatever sits alongside (typically values and pointers that other parts of the program rely on). Attackers use that corruption as a foothold to read secrets or take control of the program.

With MIE, these buffer overflows are blocked at the hardware level: every allocation of memory is marked with a secret tag. Malware can’t write into adjacent allocations because those carry a different tag, and the processor refuses at a hardware level to let data be written there, which stops the app from running. MIE also blocks attempts to read or write the same memory locations after an app releases them for other uses, because those locations receive a fresh tag or tags when they’re reallocated; this foils “use-after-free” exploits.

Apple spent years testing this solution and evaluated it against six real-world exploit chains, or sequences of exploited vulnerabilities strung together to gain control or access information that had previously been used against their platforms. Components of MIE blocked all of them. Apple says they couldn’t rebuild any of the chains to get around MIE, even by swapping in new exploits.

Security researchers reported in May 2026 that they had been able to work around MIE in macOS 26.4.1, and disclosed their findings to Apple.

Now, you will likely never be attacked by top-tier criminals or a government’s security agency. (See whether you need more security than Apple’s defaults; and if you are a target, see Lockdown Mode.) These exploit chains previously cost millions to develop and, if created by companies, were sold for huge sums to governments, which deployed them against high-value targets.

Nonetheless, by making such chains far more expensive to build and maintain, MIE reduces the odds that these techniques would ever trickle down to become attacks aimed at the rest of us.

Password lockout protections

On an iPhone, iPad, or Mac with a Secure Enclave, you can’t keep entering an incorrect password without the system taking notice and action. Or, more particularly, someone trying to break into your device cannot try over and over.

After your device has started up and reached a point at which you can enter an account password or passcode, and that secret is repeatedly entered incorrectly, Apple enforces certain limits and timeouts.

An iPhone, iPad, Mac, and even Apple Watch have the same initial timeout and lockout sequence. You can enter your password incorrectly at the login window or passcode entry field up to four times in a row without a delay between entries. However, after the fourth try, Apple adds a one-minute delay before you can try again. After the fifth, five minutes; after the sixth, 15 minutes; seventh, 1 hour; eighth, 3 hours; and ninth, 8 hours. If your tenth password entry fails, the path splits, as described below. Restarting a device doesn’t reduce the time you wait.

If you enabled the erase option on an iPhone or iPad, after the tenth attempt, the device is wiped. However, Apple notes that “consecutive attempts of the same incorrect password don’t count toward the limit.”

With an iPhone, iPad, or Apple Watch, you have to connect to another device: an iPhone or iPad to a Mac or Windows system; an Apple Watch to an iPhone. The device can’t be unlocked, but can be erased and restored.

With macOS, however, Apple provides up to 40 (yes, 40!) additional login attempts through other means to ensure you have the greatest possible options before permanent lockout:

  • Restart in recovery mode (see how macOS protects its own system files). You can try up to 10 times to enter a correct password for a login account after clicking the Options button.
  • If that fails, you have 10 attempts each for:

    • iCloud recovery
    • FileVault recovery
    • Use of an institutional key, if your Mac is managed by a company

If all of the above fails, Secure Enclave locks the volume: it will no longer process any effort to decrypt your startup volume or verify a password you enter. The drive’s data is unrecoverable. The Mac has to be erased and a new system installed to use it again.

You can tap or click Play Sound when you can’t find a device or item but think it may be nearby, or for a device when you’re trying to alert someone remotely to notice that it’s there—and potentially get in touch with you. This includes everything from iPhones to earbuds to AirTags.

After you tap or click Play Sound, a loud pinging noise will play on a device (if sound is active) or the device will vibrate (if muted) for two minutes. You can also tap to stop it sooner.

With a 1st-generation AirTag, the sound has an ostensibly friendly tone and lasts for about 10 seconds; the 2nd-generation AirTag may seem less so, as Apple measures it as 50% louder. They also raised the pitch one whole tone (from F to G). Other Find My items vary in the sound they produce: the Chipolo ONE Spot says it blares at up to 120 decibels during its sound pattern—the level of a chainsaw or a plane taking off.

An Apple/Google anti-stalking specification (see how Apple and Google detect an unwanted AirTag) now in effect requires devices produce sound of a “minimum 60 Phon peak loudness” at 25 cm (10 inches), a measurement which means 60 dB at 1000 hertz (Hz), a mid-range in human speech, and about 75 dB for higher-pitched tones.

Play Sound communicates differently with devices and items:

  • For an iPhone, iPad, Mac, or Apple Watch, the signal is sent via a local network or the internet.
  • AirTags, Find My items, all AirPods models, and Beats audio devices with Find My support have to be within Bluetooth range to receive the signal from a paired device. (This is true even for Apple and Beats audio devices.)

The 2nd-generation AirTag includes a newer generation of Bluetooth chip, and should be reachable at dozens to hundreds of feet (say, 10 m to 100 m) further than the 1st-generation model.

  • AirPods Pro (2nd generation) can play a sound on their charging case as well as through earbuds.

For audio hardware, you should receive a warning about the potential for hearing damage.

With Apple and Beats earbuds, you can typically pick which earbud should play a sound: either or both.

If your earbuds are in their case or haven’t been “seen” by Find My for some period of time—Apple doesn’t say how long—you won’t see the left/right option.

Apple also alerts people who discover an item traveling with them and gives them an option to play a sound on it; see what an “AirTag Found Moving With You” alert means.

If a device is unlocked, a notification appears that reads “Find My Device Alert”. If an iPhone or iPad is locked, it has to be unlocked to disable the ping or vibration. On a Mac, the dialog can be dismissed at a sign-in screen.

Ping your watch from your phone

On an iPhone, you can add an Apple Watch ping option to Control Center. Swipe to reveal the Control Center, touch and hold on the background of one of the views, tap Add a Control, search for Watch, and add Ping My Watch. Swipe to reveal Control Center and tap the icon to ping. Waking or tapping your iPhone or Watch stops the terrible sound!

Get directions to a person or item

The Maps app offers a quick way to retrieve a path to a person, a device, or an item via Directions. You can tap or click Directions on the sheet in People, Devices, or Items in a native app. You can also use an info pane for a person in Messages, where it appears as a blue-tinted button with a suggested travel method and a time estimate derived from Maps.

Selecting Directions in Find My or tapping the blue directions button in Messages opens the Maps app on your device with the destination being the current location of the person, device, or item. You can then fine-tune things in Maps, such as choose a method of transportation (walking, public transit, driving, etc.)

If someone can’t be reached by car or transit, you just see their location, of course. Maps doesn’t plot boat or air trips.

Work out when someone will arrive

While Directions takes you to someone, you can also figure out how long someone will take to get to you—though it requires a few steps. When certain relatives visit us with their families or when we’re trying to figure out when our kids are due home, my spouse and I use Directions like this:

  1. In Family Sharing, select the person or device associated with them.
  2. Bring up the actions sheet and tap Directions.
  3. In Maps on an iPhone, iPad, or Mac, reverse the direction by dragging the hamburger button to the right of the person’s name to the position above the entry labeled My Location.
  4. Select the mode of transportation the person is using.

Now you have the approximate time someone will arrive. While you can use the more direct method, this is a quick method less reliant on the accuracy and notification delivery of Find My and Apple.

The topic of passwords is huge. The key security aspect is narrower: how you secure them.

Apple devices can store and sync passwords in many ways, each with a different risk profile. What follows is how Apple and third-party apps store passwords, and the gold standard for syncing them among devices without increasing the likelihood they could be accessed—even by the company storing them for you.

Apple added passkeys in 2022, a more secure method of logging into a website without leaking secrets and while offering phishing resistance. You use them in lieu of a password plus a second factor, as they combine the same functions. Apple has integrated passkeys into their overall password-management and fill-in approach.

Starting in Sonoma and iOS 17/iPadOS 17, you can also create sharing groups with other people that include both passwords and passkeys. This solves an issue where you may share account access with family members or colleagues but still want the security of a passkey. (This is managed through the Passwords app.)

Apple lets you log in with a passkey to your account on their Apple Account website. This was added to let you log in securely when you weren’t able to use either Touch ID/Face ID or two-factor authentication. For instance, if you’re using a browser on someone else’s Mac and don’t want to enter the password, or you’re connecting via a Google browser on an Android phone.

Apple’s Passwords app can generate a verification code required for login with many two-factor authentication systems and store it as part of a website password entry. Not Apple’s, of course, just all the others.

Hardware security keys

In early 2023, Apple also added direct support for Apple Account logins on devices and their Apple Account website using a standard closely related to passkeys that stores unique login information on a removable hardware security key. These hardware security keys incorporate industry standards, making them compatible across mobile devices and desktop computers, as well as working with websites and native support built into operating systems.

Hardware security keys have to be activated, whether you’re using them with your Apple Account or on a website (Apple’s or anyone’s). On your Mac, iPhone, or iPad, you insert a key into a port (USB Type A, USB-C, or Lightning) or, with an iPhone or iPad, bring a key with NFC near your device. You then press a trigger on the key to start the interaction.

Hardware security keys are obviously physical items you need to exercise distinct precautions around. Their contents are one-way vaults, much like the Secure Enclave in Apple hardware, and can’t be backed up. Make sure you have safeguards in place to avoid losing or damaging them, and to ensure they’re not stolen. Treat them like a stack of $100 bills.

Apple requires two hardware security keys to enroll in that method for your Apple Account, for just that reason. If one is broken or lost, hey, you have a second. You can enroll more than two.

Where your secrets reside

Starting with iOS 18, iPadOS 18, and macOS 15 Sequoia, Apple made the Passwords app the primary built-in interface for accessing secrets, whether website logins or app passwords. Previously, Apple had a Settings section for Passwords in iOS and iPadOS, and a Passwords tab in Safari for macOS.

Even earlier, Apple steered you to Keychain Access, a utility that still exists, and which provides lower-level access to all manner of passwords, codes, secrets, and certificates managed on your Mac. See how the Mac keychain works. There’s no iOS/iPadOS equivalent.

On an iPhone, iPad, or Mac, you can enable Passwords via iCloud settings, which syncs all your app-based passwords and website logins across all the devices you own that are also logged in to the same iCloud account and have Passwords sync enabled.

Go to System Settings/Settings > Account Name > iCloud and choose Passwords or Passwords and Keychain. Enable “Sync this Device type.”

iOS and iPad app passwords use a mapping that associates them with a website, which can cause problems when you signed up in an app or at a website and then try to log in at the other entry point. The website address might not match the one provided by the app, or the app might not incorporate the right website domain. For instance, the website might use login.example.com while the app points to api.example.com.

You have two options to work around this when it happens. First, you can tap or click Passwords, then search for the domain, app, or site, and select the password entry. You’ll be warned about filling in the password. The better path is to open Passwords, find the entry, select it, tap or click Edit, tap or click Websites, then enter variants on the domain.

Browsers other than Safari have their own password storage systems for local storage and syncing. For example, Google Chrome can sync across all your apps linked to the same Google account and makes passwords available through a web-based password manager, which I have more to say about below. (Apple lets you use iCloud Passwords synced items with Chrome by installing an extension, described later.)

Third-party password managers are a boon for people who work across ecosystems or have more nuanced needs to share passwords and other kinds of data securely. Some offer Android, Windows, and Apple apps, plus browser-based access, and let you set up multiple shared secure vaults or storage areas with different sets of people. These third-party systems also have native plugins for Safari and other browsers.

How your secrets are secured

It’s important to know how password vaults manage the encryption and security of your data, but it can also be a bottomless well of detail. In the following entries, I explain, from a top-level view, how Apple manages these aspects for the Apple Keychain and for Passwords synced via iCloud, how other well-designed password managers do the same, and Google’s shortcomings in that regard.

Local passwords and passkeys

On an iPhone, iPad, or Mac, passwords and passkeys are stored in a system keychain. This is invisible to iPhone and iPad users, but you can view that secure information on a Mac via the Keychain Access app. When you enter your account password or device passcode, the keychain is unlocked for use across the device, though Apple requires biometric or password/passcode authentication to apply passwords for most logins even after that.

When you launch Keychain Access, Apple shows a dialog that says, “Manage Your Passwords in the new Passwords App.” You can then click Open Passwords (highlighted in blue) or Open Keychain Access. If you never want to be prompted again, check “Do not show this message again.”

Passkeys are stored in the keychain, but you can’t view their contents—only that you created them—because they’re based on long sequences of digits that form encryption keys meant to be kept strictly private; even displaying them reduces your security. A Mac makes a passkey available when required to log in to a website. Other browsers and apps that incorporate webpage views can also tap into Apple’s system framework to securely use passkeys.

In the Passwords app, you can view passkeys in their own category, although the entry also includes the login information used when you enrolled, such as username and password.

If you have a website login with a password, initially set up with two-factor code-based verification and then transitioned to a passkey, all those elements appear in a single Passwords manager entry.

You’ll also notice that, if you use Google Chrome in Sonoma or later, the browser opens its own compatible passkey validation system for Google account logins.

Keychain data on its own never leaves your machine, and when backed up, the associated files are encrypted. Locally stored keychain entries are backed up by full-disk encryption on all Apple silicon Macs. Your device passwords and passcodes are the only real weak points.

Apple and the rest of the industry agreed on a standard for passkeys, and also agreed to make passkeys securely exchangeable among ecosystems. Well, the first part was true first; the second took years to emerge, finally becoming a reality in 2025 with the version 26 operating systems. With 1Password, Bitwarden, or Dashlane installed, you can move passkeys (and other passwords) between them and Passwords; with two or more installed, they can transfer between each other.

iCloud Keychain for synced data

iCloud relies on endpoint security with locally stored encryption keys that never leave your Mac, iPhone, or iPad. Data is encrypted in transit, and the strongly encrypted data when synced or stored in iCloud is useless without these device-based keys, which are stored in the Secure Enclave on any hardware that has one.

With two-factor authentication (2FA) enabled on your iCloud account—more or less mandatory these days—it’s effectively impossible for someone in most circumstances to gain access to your synced and stored Passwords entries. They would need all three of the following:

  • Your iCloud password
  • Either, with standard code-based 2FA:

— Access to one of your trusted devices that they had the passcode or password for or could otherwise unlock to receive a 2FA token, or a trusted phone number (or hijack a phone number)

— The device password for one of your other Apple devices that’s already synced. When you add a new device to iCloud syncing of Passwords, Apple has you prove yourself by entering the password for an existing device in your set.

  • Or, with an Apple Account locked to hardware security keys for 2FA, access to one of the two or more hardware security keys associated with your Apple Account.

However, there’s one flaw in the above, which is covered in how thieves steal iPhone passcodes: if someone can obtain your iPhone and its passcode, they may be able to use the phone to trigger a reset of your Apple Account password. See how to turn on Stolen Device Protection for advice on preventing that.

Don’t worry about entering your passcode for Passwords syncing: Apple doesn’t know your passcode or store it or transmit it unencrypted. Instead, when you enable Passwords syncing on any device, part of the process bootstraps distributing a set of cryptographic elements securely to other devices. It does so by encrypting that set with the password of the device you’re using—but only the one-way encrypted form of the password is used.

On another device, if you don’t enter exactly the same password, when it’s also transformed in the same way, it won’t match the stored version, and it won’t be able to decrypt the syncing keys to add the device you’re on—and blocks a cracker who doesn’t know your other devices’ passwords, too.

A well-designed third-party manager

The system I described just above for Passwords is the same one that’s been implemented by 1Password. (I don’t recommend any other third-party password manager.)

It’s a zero-knowledge security model for syncing across the cloud, in which the parties handling data can’t actually see the secrets and have no access to keys. As you add devices to cloud syncing, you have to prove you have other devices and secrets first. This is true for both companies’ access to your data stores via their websites: all encryption happens locally in the browser; none is ever sent to the companies; and each login session requires proof of certain elevated secrets that no one can intercept.

1Password’s system syncs files blindly, with storage vaults encrypted and stored that way on 1Password’s servers. The master password for the vault is never transmitted in any way, nor are unencrypted entries.

1Password’s approach is close to Apple’s. The big difference? Apple copies all passwords to local storage and doesn’t allow web-based access to entries, even though they’re all stored with device-based encryption at iCloud.com. With 1Password, there’s no permanent local storage, but you can use a secure method for browser-based access if a native app isn’t available.

Google password encryption

If you use Google for password management—or as part of your password-management approach—I recommend upgrading to the device-based encryption option they introduced a few years ago.

Tip: You can check whether you already have it set up: you might have enabled it or been walked through it by Google already. Follow the same steps below.

Use Google Chrome (not another Chromium-based browser) for the following steps:

  1. In the top-right corner of the browser window, click the More button and choose Passwords and Autofill > Google Password Manager.
  2. Click the menu button and click Settings.
  3. If you see Set Up next to “On-device encryption,” click the link and follow the steps. If you see an open-in-new-window button, on-device encryption is already enabled.

You can avoid Google’s password system and rely on Apple’s by installing iCloud Passwords for Chrome. It’s a Chrome extension that manages the local security issues for accessing Passwords. Unlike Google’s system, it works with Chromium browsers.

You might encounter one of two situations that provide no location information—or the wrong location—for yourself (or someone you’re allowed to follow).

A router that moved house

Apple relies on a combination of satellite navigation signals, cellular tower communication, and Wi-Fi positioning to estimate the location of a given device. That’s not always the correct location when a Wi-Fi router you’re near has been moved from its previous location.

Apple continuously grabs information about the strength and publicly broadcast information of any Wi-Fi router from all its devices that have internet connectivity and from its Apple Maps capture vehicles as they drive around the world. (Some countries prohibit some or all of this information gathering.)

But there’s a scenario in which a relocated router retains its old location in Apple’s database, because every device near it connects to the router over Wi-Fi.

This happened to a friend’s mother who lives in a rural location. A router belonging to one of her kids was moved to her house and suddenly her iPhone said she was at the router’s old home.

Let’s say the router is in Utah and a person moves to rural Kentucky, far enough away from a road that their Wi-Fi router isn’t picked up in a short enough period by people or vehicles passing by.

Whenever the router’s owner connects to the internet, their cellular equipped devices default to Wi-Fi if they’re within range; this also means they don’t capture GPS or cellular tower information to update the location, which is instead derived from the most powerful Wi-Fi signal nearby.

Apple doesn’t offer any direct way to report a moved router, but there’s a way you can try to push this into their database:

  1. With Wi-Fi enabled on a cellular device, open Apple Maps.
  2. With a blue dot showing your current location in the wrong place, swipe down and tap Report an Issue.
  3. Tap Report Street Issue.
  4. Move the dot to your correct current location. Tap “Something else.”
  5. Type a comment that explains your Wi-Fi router has moved.
    • For extra points, find the BSSID (unique hardware ID) of your router and enter that, too. Hold down the Option key on a Mac while selecting the Wi-Fi menu and the router’s BSSID appears in a list of technical details.
  6. Click Send.

You can also disable Wi-Fi on a cellular device near the router for periods of time, allowing it to upload sufficient new locations about the router that Apple’s Wi-Fi positioning database updates.

No location at all

Sometimes Find My simply breaks: location isn’t provided even with all the right switches flipped. Everything will appear set up correctly on devices, and disabling and re-enabling the service doesn’t fix the problem. The only solution I’ve found is backing up an iPhone or iPad, erasing it, and performing a restore.

For each Find My item, you can opt to share with up to five other people. Apple expanded this in late 2024 with Share Item Location, a secure way to create an expiring link for a lost item that you can share with “airlines and trusted people.”

The sharing limit of up to five other people matches Family Sharing group limits, which can have six people total, but you don’t have to share with others if you’re in a group.

Accepting a Find My item sharing invitation means you won’t be notified in the future when the item is near you. Conversely, you will always be able to see the item in your Items list.

Apple lets you share an AirTag only with someone who uses a phone number or email address associated with an Apple Account, or a contact in your address book that contains an Apple Account-linked phone number or email address.

Share an AirTag

  1. Go to the Find My app and click or tap the Items button.
  2. Select a Find My item.
  3. On a Mac, click the More button in macOS 27, or the Info button in macOS 26 or earlier.
  4. Click or tap Add Person beneath Share This AirTag/item.
  5. Apple alerts you about the risks and benefits of sharing a Find My item.
  6. Click or tap Continue to proceed, or Not Now or Cancel to exit.
  7. In the Share Item view, you see all your contacts. You can:
    • Click or tap a contact that is shown in blue. That indicates an Apple Account-linked element in the contact. (Gray entries have already been added.)
    • Click or tap the plus button to view the full contacts list and search within it. These entries are not color guided for Apple Account.
    • At the To: prompt, start entering a phone number or email address. You’ll see matching contacts until you pass a point at which there is no match.
  8. Click or tap the blue checkmark button..

The person you selected appears with a Pending label until they accept. You can click or tap their entry to withdraw the invitation. This item now appears under the oddly named Items I Shared label in Find My.

If you tap a gray entry in the contacts list or try to add someone through another means whose email or phone number lacks a link to an Apple Account, Find My displays an alert that the person isn’t eligible for sharing. I’ve also seen a bug in which nothing happens—a brief stutter and no error—but that person is not added.

When someone shares an item with you

If you’ve had an item shared with you, the shared item appears under Items Shared With Me. Find My reveals the same information as the owner sees on their own devices. On the item’s sheet of actions, click or tap the owner’s name to view the contact associated with them. If you want to stop the item being shared with you, click or tap Remove at the bottom of its detailed view and then, after being told the owner can still track it and you’ll get notifications again when it’s near, click or tap Remove to complete the process.

For someone who has accepted, tap or click their name in the item’s sheet. This presents a simple dialog that lets you tap or click View Friend to show them in Find My’s People view if they’ve shared their location with you; or, you can tap or click Remove and confirm removing their permission to see the item. Click Cancel to exit or tap outside the dialog on an iPhone or iPad.

Share contact details instead

If you want to provide more information to someone finding something of yours, you can use Show Contact Info. Also found under Lost AirTag or Lost Item, the Show Contact Info item lets you add either your phone number or an email address. See what someone sees when they find your lost device.

If you cannot share an item

If you want to share an item and can’t—either sharing it to someone or accessing a shared invitation—it may be one of these reasons:

  • Both the sharer and recipient must be running at least iOS 17, iPadOS 17, or macOS 14.
  • You can view shared items, but not initiate sharing, on an Apple Watch.
  • Only people with the 26.2.1 or later releases of iOS, iPadOS, macOS, or watchOS can view shared 2nd-generation AirTags. See AirTag 2 vs AirTag.

Stop sharing an AirTag

If you’re the owner of an AirTag and no longer want to share it, you can stop sharing in Find My.

  1. Go to the Find My app 656662b1-6b5c-469e-9d04-915022f44dae on your iPhone.
  2. Tap Items b44f9563-4315-48bf-8490-64ca27d3e29c, tap the name of the item you’re sharing, then tap the More button.
  3. Tap the name of the person you’re sharing it with.
  4. Tap Stop Sharing, then tap Stop Sharing again.

The person you were sharing with no longer sees the AirTag’s location, but may still get tracking notifications when the AirTag is moving with them.

The People view lists everyone with whom you share your location, whom you follow, or both. The list reveals basic information, such as their current location (address or name), how far away they are, and the last update received.

With no one selected, the portion of the view with the map plots everyone you follow for whom a current location is known. This view zooms the map to show them all if they are in reasonably close proximity to one another. People are identified with their avatar.

Apple used to zoom the map in tightly, so I could see everyone near me in Seattle. However, in some update I missed, the zoom factor now encompasses my entire region. For me, that means I see my father in Port Townsend, about 56 miles away as the crow drives.

However, if your people aren’t within some reasonable distance of one another—say one of your children is in Europe, and you live as I do in Seattle—you only see the people nearest you. Apple doesn’t define this distance, but it seems to be within a few hundred miles.

You can also tap or click someone’s image or initials in the map view, and Find My zooms in to their surroundings just as if you had tapped or clicked their entry in the People list. In the version 27 releases, tapping or clicking on a zoomed-in, selected person in the map deselects them and zooms back out.

How exact the position is

Find My indicates its confidence about someone’s location by varying the diameter of the area around their profile image and the color—either blue or green. With a translucent blue circle centered on the person, the confidence could be described as high (within a few feet or a meter), medium (within about 100 feet or 30 meters), or low (about several city blocks). When the location is very precise and the person isn’t moving, you may see no blue circle—a pulsating green one appears instead.

If a person can’t be plotted that precisely, the circle of confidence can be quite large, and Find My calls out the lack of exact knowledge.

If someone is off the grid and has updated their location via satellite, you can see their location in Find My for iPhone: it appears as a tiny satellite icon next to their photo, and Satellite Location appears in the text on the sheet of actions. See how to send your location by satellite.

If you’re within about 150 to 200 feet (roughly 50 to 60 meters) of someone else who has shared their location with you and you both have an iPhone 15 series or later model, you can use Precision Finding, which gives precise directions. See how to use Precision Finding — the feature first appeared in AirTags. (This person-to-person finding relies on the UWB chip introduced in that series.)

When you use Precision Finding to locate someone else, they’re notified you’re looking for them and can likewise enable the feature (or start a game of cat and mouse).

Select a person and reveal their sheet for more ways to interact with their location or presence. You can click or tap Contact to view their contact card. You can also add them to Favorites, which sorts them to the top of the list.

Give a place your own name

You might notice an option called Location Label (the version 27 releases), Label Current Location, or Edit Location Name. This lets you assign custom labels to frequent locations—or any location—so that it appears more comprehensible when presented in a list. By default, Apple shows the best label it has, like the closest address or a building, park, or other geographical name.

You can choose to label a location your home, work, school, or gym, or add a custom label to make it more meaningful to you. For a friend I mutually follow, I’ve given his home a nickname rather than its address. These location labels appear in People, Devices, and Items.

Find someone from Messages

In the Messages app on an iPhone, iPad, or Mac, if someone has shared their location with you and their current location is known, a broad approximation appears below their profile photo, like the city and state in the United States. You can drill down further to see an inset map and bring up a larger one:

  • On an iPhone or iPad, tap the avatar in a conversation entry.
  • On a Mac, select a conversation entry and click the avatar (Tahoe or later) or the Info button in the upper-right corner (Sequoia and earlier).

Tap or click the inset map to reveal a larger one while remaining in Messages. Tap or click Open in Find My to switch to that app with the selected person. (In Sequoia or earlier, you can’t jump to Find My.)

If someone has remained at a location, the inset map shows the street name, city, and state in the United States; the larger map in Messages shows a more precise address, if available, like 5404 Ravenna Blvd NE, Seattle, WA 98115. (Not a real address!) If they’re in transit, the inset map shows more concise information, while the larger map provides more detail, such as the district or neighborhood they’re in.

In addition to the map, Messages overlays a link to get directions, showing car, transit, or walking time if close enough. A Stop Sharing My Location link appears below the map on the info pane. (See how to play a sound on a lost device or AirTag.)

macOS 27 Golden Gate is the latest major version of the Mac operating system. It is one of those rare upgrades (like going from Leopard to Snow Leopard, for those who remember it) that focuses more on improving what’s already there than on new features. To be sure, there _are_new features, including a few big ones. But even those–I’m thinking of Siri AI in particular–are mostly revisions of existing features rather than entirely novel capabilities.

This comprehensive guide rounds up all of our macOS Golden Gate coverage, making it a useful resource for casual users who haven’t had a chance to test out macOS Golden Gate 27 and those who might not remember all of the new features. It’s also a great resource to send to friends and family members who have questions about macOS 27 Golden Gate changes.

The complete list of changes

Apple’s own page for this release is unusually sparse. The long feature lists circulating online all trace back to a single slide shown for under two seconds at the WWDC keynote. The focus here is on what’s different from Tahoe and other recent versions of macOS.

Can your Mac run macOS 27

macOS 27 runs on all currently shipping Macs, as well as most models introduced within the past five years or so. Sadly, macOS 27 does drop support for some Mac models that were able to run macOS 26 Tahoe. So it is worth verifying that your hardware is fully compatible before you start.

Installing the macOS 27 upgrade

Up through 2019, I wrote an entire book every year on the process of upgrading to the latest Mac operating system. These articles condense all of those upgrading instructions.

When it goes wrong

Even if you diligently follow all the instructions, you might encounter problems while upgrading. I can’t anticipate every difficulty you may have (or provide solutions in every case), but here are two of the most likely issues and how to deal with them.

Liquid Glass, walked back

The most controversial change in Apple’s version 26 operating systems, including Tahoe, was the new Liquid Glass interface, which greatly increased the use of transparency and glass-like distortion effects that added some glitz to the screen without increasing usability. In many cases, the new appearance made text harder to read, icons more difficult to decipher, and windows more cumbersome to use.

Over subsequent Tahoe releases, Apple made some adjustments to Tahoe to address a few of the most frequent Liquid Glass criticisms. But in macOS 27, Apple has gone further still, tacitly acknowledging that Liquid Glass went too far the first time around while retaining the overall look and feel introduced in Tahoe.

If you hated Liquid Glass in Tahoe, you’ll probably find it less objectionable in macOS 27, but make no mistake: the user interface looks far more like that of Tahoe than that of Sequoia.

Siri AI on the Mac

Siri AI has a complete guide of its own, covering both platforms. Anyone with even a casual awareness of the news about the version 27 operating systems will have heard that the marquee feature is the long-promised and long-delayed Siri, now called Siri AI.

For the family

macOS 27 expands the existing Family features parents and guardians can use to restrict their kids’ screen usage, with an emphasis on safety. (You must first enable a Family account and add family members in System Settings > Family.) These new features require that both the parents’ and kids’ devices are running version 27 or later of their respective operating systems; if you haven’t already done so, a message at the top of the Family setting pane reminds you.

The Mac apps

Beyond the bigger features, many Mac apps received smaller tweaks. Although fewer apps received noteworthy updates in macOS 27 than in past versions, several are worth knowing about.

Securing the Mac afterwards

An upgrade is a good moment to check the settings you set once and then forget. These come from a separate guide to securing Apple devices rather than from the macOS 27 release notes, so they apply whichever version you are running.

Finding a Mac that goes missing

Find My covers the Mac as well as the iPhone, and the two behave differently in ways worth knowing before you need them.

Apple’s iCloud Drive is integrated into macOS, iOS, and iPadOS, and lets you use your free or paid iCloud space to store and share files.

A shared folder requires an Apple Account to access, and the contents are all accessible to whomever is invited or has the link, depending on the permissions you set. Up to 100 people can be invited to a folder. Only folders you create can be shared—not ones that Apple manages or that are created for apps. Storage space is occupied only in the sharing party’s iCloud account, which makes it handy if other people don’t have large iCloud storage subscriptions.

iCloud Drive appears in macOS by default as an item in the Finder window sidebar. You can select it there, or you can choose Go > iCloud Drive or press ⌘-Shift-I. On an iPhone or iPad, use the Files app.

With Advanced Data Protection enabled, iCloud data is secured end-to-end among your devices. It’s also E2EE secured with devices of anyone with whom you share if you all have ADP enabled.

Share a file or folder in iCloud Drive

  1. Select the items to share. On a Mac, Control-click or right-click any file or folder stored in iCloud Drive, or select several and Control-click one of them, then choose Share from the contextual menu. On an iPhone or iPad, touch and hold a file or folder and choose Share; or tap the More button, choose Select, tap the button beside each item, and tap the Share button.
  2. A share popover appears. Choose Send Copy or Share a Link from its pop-up menu. Send Copy sends a download link and has no further options. Apple renamed several of these labels in iOS 27, iPadOS 27 and macOS 27 Golden Gate; the functions are unchanged, and earlier releases call this Collaborate.
  3. If you choose Share a Link, set the permissions by clicking or tapping the text below that label:
    • Under Who Can Access, choose “People you choose” to limit access, or “Anyone with the link” to open it up. Earlier releases call the first option “Only invited people”.
    • From Permissions, choose “Can edit” for read and write access, or “Can view or download” for read-only. Earlier releases call these “Can make changes” and “View only”.
    • Enable or disable “Allow access requests”, called “Allow others to invite” in earlier releases.
  4. Select people or groups from recent interactions in Messages and elsewhere, or click one of the options, like Mail or AirDrop, to share the link.
  5. Complete the process in the dialog, sheet, or app prompt that appears. If you copy a link in the 27 releases, you are warned that sharing with a group means approving access for each member; you can proceed, or choose Allow Anyone with the Link instead.

Once shared, the item is marked in the Finder or the Files app:

  • In macOS, you can opt to show a Shared By column in the Finder. It may be enabled in some iCloud Drive views. If not, and you want to turn it on, choose View > Show View Options and check Shared By. With that column active, you see Me for you or the name of the sharing party for files or folders shared by others. All files that aren’t shared show Not Shared, which feels like overkill.
  • In macOS with the Shared By column disabled and in iOS/iPadOS, you see a label next to a file in the Finder or next to or beneath it in the Files app that reads Shared by Me if just a link is used or an invitation hasn’t yet been opened. The label displays With Person or People when an invitation is accepted. The last person to modify may appear instead, such as Modified by Dave Johnson.

To make changes, the easiest way to access these shared items is via the Shared view. On an iPhone or iPad, tap the Shared button in Files; on a Mac, choose Go > Shared in the Finder (⌘-Shift-S). Select the items as above either in the Shared view or by choosing the same set of original items. Touch and hold on an iPhone or iPad or Control-click/right-click to reveal the Manage Shared Folder item.

Choose Manage Shared Folder to reveal a dialog that shows the sharing details. You can see with whom the item is shared, and you can remove and add members (if you have permission), change permissions, or change invitation parameters. If and when you’re ready to stop sharing, click or tap Stop Sharing.

iCloud.com allows similar options for sharing files, although the sequence is a little different and options are far more limited:

  1. Log in to iCloud.com and click iCloud Drive.
  2. Select a single file or folder and then click the Share File or Folder button. Email and Copy Link destinations are available.
  3. Click Share Options to access permissions that are identical with those found on an iPhone, iPad, or Mac.
  4. When you’ve made your choices, click Share.

Dropbox

Dropbox is an exceedingly popular service for simple syncing across devices that offers several different ways to share files with strong controls on access. It has integrated macOS support, as well as full-featured apps for iOS/iPadOS and other major platforms, and a sophisticated web app.

On a Mac, Dropbox uses Apple’s framework for cloud-storage providers to add icons to the right of files and folders in the Finder in its folder. The Dropbox folder is the only one that’s synced, and it’s located by default in your home folder. Files and folders may be online only or online and stored locally.

Some features require a paid Dropbox subscription.

Control-click or right-click a single file or folder inside the Dropbox folder on a Mac or tap the More button to the right of a file or folder in the Dropbox app for iPhone/iPad. You can now access several options by choosing:

  • Share: This opens a dialog or sheet with extensive options to let people have access to a file or folder. You can invite people, create publicly available or password-protected links for sharing, and set an end-date for access. Use this option for sharing items that you want people to have ongoing access to, particularly for folders that you might optionally want to let people drop items into or modify. (Shared folders count against other people’s Dropbox storage limits.)
  • Transfer a Copy: Dropbox lets you send files without providing any access to your Dropbox space. The transfer can be password protected and have an expiration date. On a Mac, you use the contextual menu; in the iPhone/iPad app, you start in the files view and tap the plus button, then select files to transfer.
  • Copy Dropbox Link: Choosing this on a Mac (or via the Share > Copy link pathway on an iPhone/iPad) creates a public link that anyone who has it can use to download the particular item. For certain kinds of files, like images and PDFs, the link allows viewing inline on a website, too.

Google Drive and OneDrive

Two other major firms’ apps don’t offer file-level Finder integration, but can sync files automatically and provide Mac access via a web app. Both also have iPhone/iPad apps.

The advantage of both is that you might already have paid for storage:

  • Google Drive: Google Drive provides access to the 15 GB of free storage available for all Google individual accounts or to the larger pool of paid Google One tiers that start at 100 GB for $19.99 per year. Business accounts include a higher starting storage allocation. Google allows public and invitation-based links with varying permission, but doesn’t offer setting an expiration date.
  • Microsoft OneDrive with Microsoft 365: Anyone can get 5 GB of file storage (plus 15 GB of email storage) in Microsoft OneDrive by setting up a free Microsoft 365 account. For $1.99 a month or $19.99 a year, you can upgrade to Microsoft 365 Basic with 100 GB each for files and email. At $9.99 a month or $99.99 a year (one person) or $12.99 a month or $12.99 a year (up to six people in a family), Microsoft 365 Personal offers 1 TB of file storage and 100 GB of email per person. The Personal plan also adds access to desktop Microsoft apps. OneDrive’s sharing options are comparable to those of Dropbox, with options for sending invitations, creating a public link, and setting an expiration date for the link.

Efforts to find unknown AirTags and other trackers received a big boost with an industry standard released in 2024 by Apple and Google. Called Detecting Unwanted Location Trackers (DULT), the two companies have implemented it in their ecosystems.

A few other companies expressed initial support for this specification, but only Chipolo and Pebblebee have incorporated the required features into aspects of their apps and hardware that aren’t part of the Apple Find My and Google Find Hub requirements. The rest of the industry has fallen down entirely—but lacks effective crowdsourced tracking due to a small installed base.

One of the only significant elements of the standard that wasn’t part of Apple’s existing framework is a requirement that each ecosystem’s operator requires an email address and phone number from a tracker’s registered user, which wasn’t necessarily the case across all current crowdsourced trackers.

When someone discovers or is alerted to a tracker near them, an app can access those details. Both the email address and the phone number are masked. The spec explains the reasoning:

The specification explains the reasoning. In many cases the person being tracked already knows the tracker’s owner. An obfuscated email address or phone number gives a victim “some level of information on the owner”. It also protects owners merely separated from their property.

Makers must maintain a database of serial numbers and associated phone numbers and email addresses under this proposal, and provide the registered details to law enforcement on request—no subpoena or other judicial process required. However, there’s also no process noted for how the email and phone number are validated. We know that Apple associates your Apple Account information with an AirTag and Find My items, and those require validation.

This raises some privacy concerns. On the one hand, we should preserve our digital and real-world privacy as much as possible, and Apple has been a stalwart defender of our rights against companies and governments in that regard.

However, on the other hand, when there’s clear evidence of potential criminality and the likelihood of harm or violence—like someone finding a tracking device they don’t own placed in their stuff—making information available to police with proper credentials to pursue the tracking person seems desirable. The issue in practice will be how well companies mediate providing government access to the tracker registration database.

How the Google stalking alerts differ

When Google announced their Find Hub Bluetooth tracking devices in 2024, they explained that crowdsourced relaying of location would be much more restricted than with Apple’s network:

  • A tracker’s location is relayed only when it’s in what Google calls a high-traffic area, like an airport, café, “busy footpaths,” or public transit. This prevents location tracking in places like homes or on a solo bike ride or drive.
  • If you let Google know your home address via your Google Account (a wasp’s nest of privacy issues, to be sure), any Android device you have won’t relay location information for trackers when you’re in or near your home.
  • A tracker’s owner can’t continuously request the device’s location. Google hasn’t provided details, but says they “rate limit” and “throttle” requests, as most lost items remain in stationary locations.

These are excellent additions to the privacy and safety arsenal that I hope Apple ultimately adopts as well.

What the reports actually showed

An odd report came from the York Regional Police in Ontario, Canada, in December 2021: car thieves were using AirTags to track down and steal cars. The police said they found AirTags used to “mark” expensive vehicles in public locations (and offered a photo of one instance) so that thieves could locate them later in easier-to-steal locations, like a public street or driveway.

Following this report, news media and other police departments issued a flurry of accounts of both car thieves and stalkers using AirTags. Some reports are sketchy; some lead with a strong headline, but then note that it was probably a false positive. In one case, a 17-year-old discovered her mother was tracking her. How prevalent is this, really?

Apple responded to these reports and others on Feb. 10, 2022, with a statement called “An update on AirTag and unwanted tracking.” Along with a host of improvements, nearly all rolled out in 2022, Apple also noted, “Based on our knowledge and on discussions with law enforcement, incidents of AirTag misuse are rare; however, each instance is one too many.” (Apple also updated their unwanted tracking support document.)

For a period, the phenomenon seemed to disappear, in 2023 and 2024. However, I’ve seen a new resurgence of reporting. The scope of the issue is impossible to gauge.

Police suggest the reverse use

Many police and sheriff’s departments suggest turning AirTags around: to help recover cars and be aware of thefts, law-enforcement groups suggest sticking an AirTag in your car. In fact, after a huge surge in thefts of certain Kia and Hyundai models due to a security flaw, the New York City mayor gave out 500 AirTags donated by a nonprofit to residents in heavily affected areas. Police warn, however, not to try to recover your own car; this has led to deaths and injury.

Regardless of how often AirTags are misused, Apple suggests contacting law enforcement if you feel endangered. All Find My items provide a little help here, as you can connect to a webpage associated with the item and see the last four digits of the phone number associated with the device. You may recognize the number, or the police may use it to track down the person who is tracking you.

An AirTag makes it easy: you tap or hold the AirTag near anything with an NFC reader, and it prompts with a webpage link. For other devices, a finder has to go through a multi-step process (see how to identify an AirTag you have found).

Where to get help

There are many organizations beyond law enforcement eager to help people trapped in situations of domestic abuse or child subject to violence and an unsafe environment. For adults in the United States, that includes the National Domestic Violence Hotline; for children or those concerned about their welfare in the United States and Canada, the Childhelp National Child Abuse Hotline.

For those being stalked, one starting point is Safehope. It’s more likely you will need the help of police or federal authorities. Local police departments have their own paths to navigate, but for online or cyber stalking, it may be better to start with the FBI.

If the person you are worried about may be watching your device, use one they cannot see. Removing a tracker or turning off sharing can be noticed, and advocates warn that it can make a situation worse rather than better, so it is worth talking to someone before you act.