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Find My comes in three flavors:

  • Device-based, two-way short-range and internet: This version is the original and better understood, and can be enabled on devices: an iPhone, iPad, or Mac, and, by extension, an Apple Watch paired with an iPhone. The device actively sends its location over the internet whenever the internet is available. Find My Device allows the owner of a device to send remote events, like playing a sound or triggering erasure, to a device. Apple and Beats audio devices near their paired device act like this as well.
  • Find My notification network: The Find My network is a one-way notification system that relays location via other people’s internet-connected devices. It can be enabled on an iPhone, iPad, or Mac, and is an inherent attribute of “items”: AirTags and third-party Find My products. Audio devices like AirPods Pro, AirPods Max, and several models of Beats earbuds and headphones act like Find My items when away from their paired device. An owner can’t send commands via the Find My network.

The AirTag, some audio devices, and other items can receive a command to play a sound via Bluetooth from a nearby device. This allows either an owner or someone whose device has been relaying Find My network location data to play a sound on an AirTag.

  • Device-based, Bluetooth range: For Apple AirPods, you can track location only when they’re near their paired iPhone or iPad. They use Bluetooth and don’t participate in the broader Find My network, but their current or last-known location appears in the Devices view in Find My (and the Apple Watch Find Devices app in watchOS 26 or earlier). An owner can trigger a sound when they are near these audio devices.

Because devices can connect to either the two-way or notification network, the other way to look at it is this way:

  • Devices can use both networks: An owner of a device can perform a remote action whenever it’s connected to the internet (or its paired device is and is nearby, with audio hardware), but can see its location when it’s picked up via either form of Find My.
  • Items can use only the Find My network: Items can only ever report their location.

Turn on Find My for a device

Local- and internet-based Find My on an iPhone, iPad, or Mac requires an active Apple Account associated with iCloud. You likely already set up Find My when upgrading or setting up your device.

To enable Find My on an iPhone, iPad, or Mac, if you haven’t signed in with an Apple Account yet, go to System Settings/Settings > Account Name > iCloud and enter your credentials.

On an iPhone or iPad, tap Settings > Account Name > Find My to view and make changes in settings; these settings also affect any paired Apple Watch. On a Mac, go to System Settings > iCloud > Show All. If Find My isn’t enabled, turn it on. Once Find My is active, you can tap or click the Find My item to access additional settings, like the Find My network or, on an iPhone/iPad, Send Last Location.

Enabled devices are automatically added to your iCloud account’s list of devices. For supported devices, Apple enables Activation Lock.

Turn on the Find My network

Find My network tracking has distinctly different options depending on whether you’re enabling it on devices or using it with items. Here’s the breakdown for those categories.

Apple enables the Find My network on iPhone, iPad, and Mac by default. Any Apple Watch, AirPods (3rd generation), AirPods 4 with Active Noise Cancellation, AirPods Pro or Max, or supported Beats audio device paired with an iPhone is similarly tracked. You can toggle this setting as follows:

  • iPhone (plus Apple Watch)/iPad: Change the Find My network option in Settings > Account Name > Find My > Find My iPhone/iPad.
  • Mac: Go to System Settings > Account Name > iCloud, click Show More Apps, and click Find My Mac.

Disabling the Find My network also removes your device’s participation in finding other people’s lost items.

There’s one hidden requirement that Apple doesn’t document, because it’s implicit; the company has spoken about it publicly. Because finding devices over the Find My network requires the use of encryption secrets stored only on devices, you have to have two devices enabled on the network in order for one to find the other. That way, they exchange the necessary secrets using Apple’s privacy-preserving framework without Apple possessing any of your encryption keys. (This is quite similar to how iCloud Keychain works.)

In other words, if you have a single device that’s lost and it can connect to the internet, you’re using the two-way Find My system. A single lost device that can’t connect to the internet also cannot use the Find My network to find it, because there’s no other trusted device that can query Apple for the secret Find My network details. You can’t use iCloud.com for crowdsourced device location, as iCloud.com doesn’t store the Find My network secrets, much as it doesn’t store iCloud Keychain password entries and other secrets.

This requirement isn’t in place with items, because you can already discover the location of items that aren’t nearby only by using the Find My network from a device.

Powering off no longer hides a phone

When an iPhone series 11 or later model is in the extremely low-power “power reserve mode” or “powered off,” as long as your device has any battery power available (or is plugged in), it will continue to send Bluetooth beacons for location discovery if the Find My network setting is turned on as described above; you can also disable the network temporarily, as described next.

In this power reserve mode, you should be able to use Express Mode for transit system payment even if your iPhone (or Apple Watch) can’t do anything else.

Powering down a device offers up a warning in small type that highlights this change. Tap the warning to get the full details. You can tap Temporarily Turn Off Finding, enter your device passcode, and then power down; on the next power up, Find My is reactivated.

Items are always on

AirTags are designed to work both via short-range networking directly with a paired iPhone or iPad and through the crowdsourced system. When you set up an AirTag, it’s enabled for use on the Find My network, as described in how to set up an AirTag.

Third-party Find My network items have a slightly different pairing process, but remain active at all times, too; see how third-party Find My trackers differ.

Apple and Beats audio devices appear under the Devices view in the Find My or Find Devices app because they report their location via a paired device when in range (which is almost certainly often). When not in range, they rely on the Find My network. AirPods can only be tracked via the paired device, while all the other Apple and Beats hardware can use the Find My network. (I guess Apple didn’t want to confuse audio device owners by classifying these higher-end devices with single-function trackers.)

You can reset a Find My item, remove its battery, or use a special disable sequence to stop it sending out a stream of location data. See how to reset or disable an AirTag.

You might wonder why anti-malware software is not on the list of things to install on a Mac. After decades of using anti-malware software, some of it quite sophisticated, I don’t think any package’s benefits outweigh the cost in terms of price, false positives, and system load.

Anti-malware software has a distinct weakness: it can’t protect against unknown threats. It’s 100% designed to keep out-of-date systems protected from well-known viruses and the like, and to safeguard an up-to-date system as quickly as possible from malware that has just been discovered and characterized. If you keep your Mac up to date and never install software of any kind from the internet (besides the App Store) or software handed to you by other people, you can probably forgo anti-malware software, as it has no real path to find you.

For everyone else, it’s worth considering. While a portcullis doesn’t protect a castle when it’s open, cutting the rope and dropping it is an effective way to keep hordes from rampaging through that front door. Likewise, automatic updates and scanning are terrific ways to ensure you aren’t caught out by a prior or current exploit.

What antivirus software cannot catch

You’d think with all the AI in the world and decades of research about viruses, there should be a way to detect malicious behavior and shut it down. And yet that’s still largely a dream, with one exception for ransomware that I describe below.

Instead, anti-malware software’s virus-protection portion largely relies on the same technology it has for decades. A hash is made of a malicious payload—in just the same way that Apple creates a cryptographic summary of legitimate software—and stored in a list. When the anti-malware app scans a drive for bad actors, it generates a signature of each item it finds and compares it against its stored list, which is frequently updated.

The best current anti-malware software helps you with five distinct issues:

  • Known malware: Blocking already known and extant malware, including routinely scanning files on your Mac, volumes you mount on your Mac, and attachments that arrive via email
  • Phishing websites: Blocking phishing websites and those that host links to malicious software, either loaded in the browser or as downloads
  • Behavior alerts: Identifying dubious behavior that might be fine, but you should review to be sure, such as opening a file or accessing a folder in an unexpected location

macOS requires you to grant permission the first time an app attempts to access files in certain locations, which is a coarse but useful version of this. See how to control which apps use your Mac camera and files.

  • Ransomware: Blocking ransomware activities based on the way that ransomware functions, discussed below
  • Windows malware: Preventing you from passing Windows viruses on to someone else

Ransomware is the exception

Ransomware is the odd one out in this whole discussion. While being the biggest likely threat to Mac users, it’s also by far the easiest to track. Ransomware operates by suddenly creating a mass of new, encrypted files and deleting ones with similar names. It’s rarely sophisticated; it just has to be launched by a user or through some method that lets it insert itself and run.

Some anti-malware software can detect this broad category of behavior because it’s so specific, and can lock down folders and prompt your response before more than one or a handful of files are locked away.

Windows malware on a Mac

macOS can’t run malware that’s written for Windows machines, so even if a Windows virus appeared on your drive, it wouldn’t do any damage; it would simply be inert.

Mac anti-malware apps, however, do identify, quarantine, and remove Windows malware, because of the chance you might pass it on via email or as part of an infected Microsoft Office document to someone else who uses Windows.

And even though macOS isn’t Windows, you can run Windows via virtualization software like Parallels Desktop. Mac anti-malware software won’t protect you there, so you should absolutely run Windows anti-malware software within your Windows installation.

Apple tends to release operating system changes as a two-beat sequence, like our heart going LUB-dub: The LUB beat is a major flex, like the introduction of Liquid Glass across all their operating systems in 2025. This year is a "dub," a building-or-rebuilding year, in which Apple largely tweaks the previous cycle and offers incremental improvements, though some may feel quite large.

The 2026 set of releases, numbered 27–like car models are numbered in fall for the following year–is a "dub." We see the rollout of the long-promised Siri upgrade, called Siri AI. Along with its improved performance, Siri AI and Apple Intelligence both extend much more deeply into apps and system functions across nearly all platforms. That’s the flagship feature.

Our iOS 27 guide follows the order you will actually meet those changes: the upgrade itself, then Siri AI, then Apple Intelligence inside the apps, then the interface that changed under you, and so on through to the apps and Apple Pay. Two further sections cover what comes after — keeping the phone safe, and finding it again if it goes missing.

This is a comprehensive guide with all of our coverage, and it’s a useful resource for iPhone and iPad users new to iOS 27 or those who might want a recap on what’s new.

Before you upgrade

Upgrading your device should be a cinch. But iOS 27 and iPadOS 27 have minimum hardware requirements. You won’t be able to upgrade any iPhone or iPad that isn’t a supported model. There are further limitations to using Apple Intelligence, which requires certain processor features and applies only to a subset of iPhones and iPads that can install iOS 27 and iPadOS 27.

The Siri AI guide

Siri AI is the flagship of this release, and it has a complete guide of its own. Siri spent years seeming like it didn’t quite fit the level of quality Apple aspires to. Worse, the company announced capabilities it wasn’t able to release, and features that have disappointed. You can tell this wasn’t just users carping: more than one head of the Siri effort has left the company altogether.

Apple Intelligence was more of a success, if limited. The company, making use of mostly on-device computation, focused their use of Apple Intelligence on specific tasks within apps or systemwide. I think many of these attempts were boring or unnecessary: generating custom emojis, Image Playground for slightly icky picture generation, and the global Writing Tools, which were worse than many previous generations of non-AI-based assistants.

Apple Intelligence inside the apps

In the iOS 27 and iPadOS 27 updates, Apple expanded the use of Apple Intelligence across more apps and added features to apps that already had some Apple Intelligence support. Apple Intelligence is designed to synthesize information, like creating summaries, as well as generate stuff, such as text or images. Some of the elements are distinctly more useful than others.

The interface changed under you

Few interface changes Apple has made have been more criticized than their introduction of Liquid Glass in their version 26 operating system releases; few have been more praised than bringing a full-featured windowing environment to iPadOS 26.

Apple has learned from both changes and added maturity to them. Liquid Glass can now be practically disabled—almost turned off with Reduce Transparency—while the iPad received many more minor changes that are welcome, but not critical.

Setting it up for children

Over the last few years, Apple has released a number of features that parents can use for children that are aimed at reducing two categories of risk: use of apps parents disapprove of, activities parents want to discourage or limit, and spending money online; and exposure to unwanted contact, images, and videos, as well as preventing children from being able to make unfettered connections or send material to arbitrary people.

Accessibility

Accessibility is a catch-all term for a large number of features, apps, and adjustments that Apple designs to improve access to kinds of things that may be harder for some people, whether due to motor limitations, eyesight or hearing, or the language they speak.

Many of these features can benefit a much larger group of people than any narrowly defined as “disabled”; automatic, high-quality captioning of video content is a great example, as is having a voice read text aloud from webpages or describe images.

Communications

Following significant overhauls to their three communications apps in iOS 26, iPadOS 26, and macOS 26—FaceTime, Messages, and Phone—Apple has relaxed a bit with changes in the 27 series of releases. Here’s what you should pay attention to.

The apps, one by one

Beyond the big changes, many apps in iOS 27 and iPadOS 27 received smaller tweaks or modest new features.

Apple Pay and Wallet

Apple also made one systemwide change so far that I can tell you about, with big updates to Apple Pay and point-of-sale payments.

Keeping it safe

An upgrade is a good moment to check the settings you set once and then forget. These come from a separate guide to securing Apple devices rather than from the iOS 27 release notes, so they apply whichever version you are running.

Finding your things

Find My changed in iOS 27, and the AirTag hardware changed with it. This section covers the whole system: devices, people, and the trackers you attach to your things.

Notify When Left Behind helps with absent-mindedness, exhaustion, and theft. Using your presence, whenever you move a certain distance away from a device or item—Apple doesn’t define how far—you receive a notification on that device.

Found on the sheet for any device or item in native Find My apps, it’s enabled by default under Notifications. You can choose to disable it on a per-item basis. Apple also excludes the place you defined as Home or Apple inferred was your Home.

The device on which you would be notified is listed as part of the explanation when you tap or click Notify When Left Behind.

Your Apple Watch doesn’t alert you when something is left behind (and the Find My app explains this); instead, the alert comes only when the item is separated from your primary presence device, typically an iPhone. (See how Find My works.)

Notify When Left Behind helps in a bunch of scenarios I can imagine:

  • Forgetting you placed an iPad in the seat-back pocket on an airplane. (This is certainly a main cause of loss for iPads and Kindles.)
  • Leaving an iPhone, iPad, or Mac in a coffee shop or restaurant.
  • Forgetting your backpack that has an AirTag in its pocket at someone’s house.
  • Checking your luggage at an airport or train station for a trip.
  • Leaving items at a hotel room, hostel, Airbnb, or the like after checking in during a trip, such as in a hotel safe.
  • Not packing your laptop in a bag you’re carrying with you before leaving for school or work—or vice versa!
  • Locking up a bike that you’ve attached a Find My item to at your destination—then forgetting you biked there and taking a bus home. (Folks, if you bike regularly and you haven’t made or almost made this mistake, count yourself lucky.)

Trust a place

When you’re notified, you can tap Don’t Notify Me, and the location where your Find My item or device was left will be added as a location. If you have an Apple Watch, a notification on the watch also lets you tap Trust Location or Dismiss.

You can also suppress this notification in a Find My app on an iPhone, iPad, or Mac by selecting the item or device, which then shows where it was last seen. You can tap or click Don’t Notify Me Here.

When you add a location through this method, the operating system prompts you, “Don’t notify at map description of location?” You can then tap or click “For all Items or Devices,” “For this Item/Device,” or Cancel.

You can also manually add other locations to exclude by tapping or clicking Notify When Left Behind, then New Location. The map interface for location selection is identical to the one for People. You have the additional option when you click Done to add the location to select “For all Items and Devices” or “For this Device.”

You can accumulate a list over time of places that you don’t want to be notified about items being left behind at. For me, this has become an interesting travelogue of all the hotels, homes, and workplaces I’ve been at.

You can clean this list up by removing locations. On an iPhone, iPad, or Mac, tap or click the remove button to a location’s right. The exception is the Home location, which can be removed only on the device that establishes presence. You can view those locations on an Apple Watch, but not remove them.

It is not an anti-theft feature

Because the notification occurs only when the device remains static and you’ve left it behind, it is not an anti-theft feature. Conceivably, we need Apple to add the opposite case, too: Notify When Moves Away. Perhaps this could cause both the device that’s taken and the hardware that notifies to both squeal uncontrollably until reunited?

A bag in a hotel safe

As I was revising this edition, I received a text from a friend. After a trip out of state, he’d realized he’d forgotten to retrieve a small bag in the hotel safe. He didn’t care much about the bag—except that it contained his passport! The bag also contained an AirTag, but he wasn’t alerted that it was left behind for several hours.

He could see the AirTag in what appeared to be the parking lot. A few slightly clueless hotel front-desk people seemed helpless, although one walked out into the parking lot and said the location appeared to be a grate. Maybe a thief had thrown the AirTag down its openings? But that would mean someone had stolen it from the room safe or lost and found after he had checked out.

After a day or so, a more clued-in staffer called back: it was in the lost-and-found safe, which apparently other people hadn’t checked. For $60, the hotel used a third-party service to return the bag. And then he watched as it didn’t move for days—requiring three more calls to the hotel—before it finally landed at the airport near us. And then sat there for a day before UPS put it on a truck.

The related setting: Notify When Found

Device notifications don’t let you see when something comes or goes, but instead provide you useful feedback related to losing something or having it stolen.

Find My enhances its Lost Mode/Mark as Lost option by providing a notification option after you mark a device as lost. This notification can occur when that device is “found”—that is, when it’s back online, however briefly (see what someone sees when they find your lost device).

Notify When Found is disabled by default on the sheet of actions for a device or item in a native Find My app unless it’s been marked as lost. Then you have just the option to turn it on or off. If enabled, a notification appears on your devices in one of two cases: a piece of your equipment detects the missing item; or the device or item reports its location through Find My or the Find My network.

Apple lets you create a link you can share beyond the maximum of five people who can have continuous shared access. You can create a link to track an item that you can share with anyone.

The link expires after seven days, or you can disable it manually. It immediately stops working as soon as you are within Bluetooth range of the AirTag or Find My item, or if someone you shared the link with is close to it. Airlines have also added a way to use this link for baggage traffic, either for normal use or when your baggage is misplaced.

This requires at least iOS 18.2/iPadOS 18.2 or 15.2 Sequoia on your sharing device and the person who wants to view the link.

Create the AirTag luggage link

Share Item Location under Lost AirTag or Item is the pathway to obtain this link. Tap or click that label to start. First, you’re given a disclosure about what someone with the URL will see. If the item is nearby, you can’t obtain this URL and see an alert about it. Otherwise, tap or click Continue.

Find My generates a URL on a screen labeled Item Location Ready to Share. Tap or click the copy button to copy the URL or tap or click Share Link to use an option on the share sheet.

Apple continues to preserve end-to-end Find My item privacy, even when you’re sharing a link. In fine print, Find My notes, “At least one of your iPhone, iPad, or Mac devices needs to be online to provide updated locations.” That’s because the only way to retrieve the crowdsourced location is via one of those devices.

After the link is created, you can return to the same location to copy the URL. If you want to stop sharing, tap or click Stop Sharing Item Location. Disabled links can’t be reused: Apple generates unique links for each shared item every time.

What the other person sees

If the recipient has an iPhone, iPad, or Mac with an operating system recent enough to support Find My item sharing, the link—labeled Find Lost Item in some contexts, such as when sent via Messages—will prompt to open in the Find My app. Tap or click Continue in Find My. In the Find My app, you see an alert that lost items appear only when viewed in this fashion; tap or click Continue. Finally, you see the item tracked.

For people opening the link on any device other than a supported Apple one, they are taken to a webpage that automatically updates when the item’s reported location changes.

Share the link wisely! Anyone in possession of the link can use it to track the item’s current location for as long as the link is valid.

Once an item is found, Apple automatically disables the links and notifies the lost item’s owner.

Give the link to an airline

Share Item Location can also be used in a privacy-protecting way with airlines and baggage-handling services to report a missing or delayed bag. Apple said 50 airlines had signed on to support the feature. The last count, as of February 2026, was that 36 were online, including American, Delta, and United in the United States, along with major airlines worldwide. However, there’s no official list.

Apple says that safeguards will be in place at airlines so that only a limited number of people with authenticated logins can view shared tracking information.

If your bag is delayed on a supported airline:

  1. In a native Find My app, use the process above to generate a shared item link.
  2. Open the airline’s iPhone or iPad app or go to their website. Find the delayed-baggage form.
  3. In the field labeled Find My in some variation, paste the URL.

Because the 2nd-generation AirTag requires version 26.2.1 or later of Apple’s operating systems to use this kind of item tracking, it is possible that some airlines and baggage-handling services still don’t support these newer trackers. Big organizations tend to lag in updating their devices. I haven’t heard any reports, however.

AirTags and other accessories are locked to the phone they’re paired with. Apple calls this Find My Lock instead of Activation Lock, which is available for Apple devices, like iPhones and Macs. (See how Activation Lock protects a lost or stolen device.)

You can remove an AirTag from an Apple Account using the native Find My app but only on an iPhone or iPad linked to your iCloud account. You cannot use a Mac to remove a Find My item pairing; Apple has not explained why.

Go to the Find My app, tap the Items button, tap the AirTag, and at the bottom of the sheet with actions, tap Remove. Apple lets you know this means someone else can use it by pairing it. Apple also alerts you with shared items about others being unable to see it after removal.

If the AirTag is within Bluetooth range of the device you’re using to remove it from your Apple Account, it is automatically reset and ready to be paired with another device. Otherwise, it has to be physically reset after removal. Apple has instructions in a support document, but I found them a little difficult to follow in their formulation.

An AirTag remains connected to its paired device and unusable with another device until or unless it is removed from your Apple Account. Resetting it has no effect on pairing.

I highly recommend avoiding purchasing used AirTags or Find My items, as there’s no way for a seller to provide an assurance that the item has had its Find My Lock removed. At worst, only buy from a source that promises a full refund and free return, including shipping costs, if the item can’t be used.

I’ve sometimes found I have to restart my iPhone to re-pair an AirTag with it after removing it.

Here’s what I hope is a clearer sequence:

Reset your AirTag

  1. Remove the back cover: Holding the glossy white front, push down to twist the metal back panel counter-clockwise. It only needs to move a small distance before the cover pops off.
  2. Remove the battery: Inside, you’ll see its small coin cell battery. Remove the battery, making note of the right side up: the + sign on the battery will always face you.
  3. Press in a sequence: This next step may seem peculiar, because the back cover remains off. Put the battery back in place and then press down lightly. The AirTag makes a faint bleep. Repeat this four times: remove the battery so it makes no contact, put it back in, press it lightly, and wait for a sound. The fifth time you do this, the sound will be slightly different. That means the reset operation completed successfully.
  4. Reattach back cover: Now you can look at the cover to see the extended tabs and align those with the hole in the top. Press in and then rotate the cover clockwise against its top until it’s firmly in place.

The small size of the AirTag, its cover, and the battery within are all choking hazards for small children or pets. If you have either or have visitors with them, keep track of loose AirTags or parts.

Now you can pair with another iPhone or iPad.

Stop an AirTag transmitting

Removing an AirTag from an account stops it from relaying location data. However, if you want the device to stop sending any signal, remove the cover and the battery.

In a pinch, you can disable an AirTag’s or third-party item’s capability to transmit its signal by wrapping it in aluminum foil or putting it in a bag designed to block electromagnetic fields (a so-called Faraday cage). These items emit fairly weak Bluetooth signals, so the foil approach will, uh, foil attempts to track you if you can’t figure out how to remove the battery or you want to leave the device intact to give to law enforcement.

You can find advice all over the internet about how to disable the sound-producing part of an AirTag. I won’t link to any such advice, and I recommend you avoid it in nearly all cases. Why? Because the intent isn’t, as often stated on these webpages, how to keep an AirTag from bothering you. Rather, it’s clearly advice on producing a more effective electronic stalker. (Apple also may have made it harder to remove the sound-producing component in the 2nd-generation AirTag, but the company declines to discuss that.)

You might have a perfectly good reason to dampen the sound! But in some countries (or even certain cities, states, or regions within a country), unless an AirTag is continuously within your control, disabling the intended audio alert could run afoul of privacy and anti-stalking laws and get you into real trouble. (For when this sound occurs, see what an “AirTag Found Moving With You” alert means.)

Disclosing your location is a two-edged sword—or maybe a multi-bladed throwing star. It can be incredibly handy to let other people know where you are for travel, safety, timing, and even accountability. However, letting others know where you are means they know where you are, which even for close friends, family, and partners can feel like too much knowledge and the expectation of you sharing your position can feel invasive. (You also may feel it’s excessive that, when you launch Find My, you can see the precise location of everyone who has shared with you, even though they did so willingly!)

Apple tries to strike a balance with location sharing just as it does with nearly all other aspects of digital privacy that they mediate and let you choose your comfort level with.

Find My is the interface through which the location you share from an iPhone, iPad, Mac, or Apple Watch gets viewed, but it’s only partly the way in which you choose what is shared! That split is left over from when Apple introduced the previous standalone app, Find My Friends, and relied on preferences buried in Settings to manage all the details.

When you share your location, the other person cannot see your devices, but only your presence: the device marked as showing where you are. Only people in a Family Sharing group can see each other’s devices, and only if the person is sharing their location with them. Items don’t pick up Family Sharing settings. You can share them with up to five people.

Location has two interrelated components: how you share your location and how you choose to accept seeing other people’s locations. Let’s start with you.

You can use the native Find My app to view and change personal settings, even if you’re part of a Family Sharing group:

  • On an iPhone/iPad, watchOS 27, and macOS 27: Go to the Find My app > Me button.
  • In macOS 26 and earlier: In the Find My app’s People view, click Me and click the Info button.
  • In watchOS 26 and earlier: In the Find People app, tap the Me entry.

Here is what appears in the My Location section on all these devices:

  • Share My Location: A single tap, and you let yourself be seen by those you’ve shared with; another tap, and you run silent—your location isn’t sent again until it’s re-enabled.
  • Sharing From: Often called presence, this defines which devices are shared in Find My as being your location as a human if you own multiple devices. My Location reads This Device if you’re on the one defining your location; otherwise, it shows the name of that device. (See how Find My works.)
  • Location Label: At the top of the Me view, you see the current inferred address. However, Find My tries to offer something more descriptive. If you’ve defined your home or work location in Contacts or Phone, it should show Home or Work as the label. You can also create your own names for other addresses; see how to see someone’s location in Find My.

Share with someone

You can share your location in more than one way, and the interface is essentially the same with slight differences.

Here’s how to share in various ways across your Apple devices, from most universal to most specific; how to set the duration option is discussed after these instructions:

  • On an iPhone or iPad, or in macOS 26 or later:

— Find My app: Click or tap the add button at the upper-right corner of the list in whatever view you’re in. Enter names or select people. Click the checkmark button. Now choose a duration.

— Messages: In any conversation in Messages, tap or click the avatar or avatars. On an iPhone or iPad, tap the Plus button, choose Location, tap Share, choose the duration (see below), and tap the Send button. On a Mac, click Share My Location, choose a duration, and press Return to send.

Tip: If your recipient or group isn’t all Apple users, you can still send an image that embeds a link to a map; instead of Send or Share, the button reads Send Pin.

  • In macOS Sequoia or earlier:

— Find My app: In the Find My app, click the People button, then click Share My Location. Enter names or select people. Click Send, and choose a duration.

— Messages: In any conversation in Messages, click the Info button in the upper-right corner. Click Share My Location and choose a duration. Press Return to send the location message.

  • On an Apple Watch:

— Find My app (watchOS 27) or Find People app (watchOS 26 or earlier): In watchOS 27 only, first tap People. Scroll to find Share My Location. Tap it to either dictate a name, choose a contact, or enter a contact’s phone number.

— Messages app: In the Messages app in watchOS 26 or later, choose a conversation, tap the add button, choose Location, tap Share, and choose a duration.

Note: When someone requests your location, as explained ahead in If You’re Asked to Reciprocate, you can’t use a single tap from an Apple Watch. You have to use one of the above methods.

Note: You can’t share your location with others or see their location in the Find Devices app on iCloud.com.

Choose how long it lasts

No matter which path, platform, or version you’re using from the above list, you’re asked to pick or set a duration: Always (formerly Indefinitely), End of Day, One Hour, or Custom. (These options are worded slightly differently across apps.) The Custom choice is new in the version 27 releases. Selecting that option lets you set a duration from 15 minutes to 30 days.

If you shared via Messages, you see a note in the conversation that says “You started sharing location with person name.” The recipient sees “Person name started sharing location with you.”

I’m guessing Apple switched in the version 27 releases to the simpler word “always” after years of using “indefinitely” because more people can easily parse “always.” Indefinitely has the ring of “inflammable” about it: does it mean forever or for a period of time? (Inflammable items are just as easy to set on fire as flammable ones.)

If you choose anything but Always/Indefinitely, a countdown clock appears when you view the details for that person’s entry in Find My: it reads “Sharing for X time units” in the version 27 releases and “X time units remaining in previous operating systems. Messages displays a map tile with an inset yellow countdown clock for the remaining time. In Apple Watch’s Find People app, the contact’s avatar is overlaid with a timer; tap the entry to see the remaining time as text.

Family Sharing is a separate switch

For greater flexibility, Apple also lets you use Family Sharing settings to enable to disable location sharing among group members. Go to Settings/System Settings > Family > Location Sharing to see family settings.

In Location Sharing, you see all the other members of your family sharing group and your current sharing status with them and theirs with you—sort of!

If you used this interface to share your location, or used the Automatically Share Location option (enabled by default) for new members, you see sharing enabled next to the group member. However, if you used the Find My app to start sharing your location, it may appear that you are not sharing with them! You’re just not “family” sharing with them! Yes, it’s as straightforward as a bent nail.

Under the Share Your Location With section, you can also see which of the group members are sharing with you. Again, this is dependent on how you shared. In the figure, you see “person name is sharing your location with you,” even though four members of my family group are sharing their locations with me. Oy!

See who can currently find you

Once you start sharing your location with other people, you might lose track of precisely who that is. Fortunately, you can see a list in a few different places:

  • Native Find My app: Use the Find My app’s People view or the Find People app on an Apple Watch (watchOS 26 or earlier). Everyone in the list who reciprocally follows you appears with location information; everyone else you share with has the label “Can see your location” beneath their name.
  • Find My settings: On an iPhone or iPad, go to Settings > Your Name > iCloud > Find My, and you can see Family (if you’re in a Family Sharing group) and Friends. This doesn’t show reciprocal sharing status, however.
  • Family settings: If you’re part of a Family Sharing group, Settings/System Settings > Family > Location Sharing reveals any group member with whom you’ve shared using Family Sharing settings. See that befuddling situation above in Share Location with Family.

Because FileVault prevents direct access to your data volume at startup, turning it on requires a backup plan. That backup plan is the FileVault Recovery Key. This key is a precious object that you should treat like the gold that it is virtually made of. If anything were to go wrong with the boot portion of your Mac’s operating system, or in the unlikely event you forget the password to your computer’s account, the only way you can decrypt the drive is using the Recovery Key. Without it and any accessible backup, its contents are truly gone for good.

This Recovery Key is entirely unrelated to the Apple Account Recovery Key, used to regain access to your online account.

When you need a Recovery Key

You should only ever need to use your Recovery Key if you attempt to log in with your macOS account password or username and password, and macOS refuses to let you proceed. In such cases, you should see text that reads Reset Password with a right-pointing arrow to its left. You can also bring up that link right away by clicking the question-mark button to the right of the password field. Follow the instructions to reset your password with the Recovery Key.

Apple has historically had two different ways it manages the Recovery Key. The first lasted for several years, through Tahoe. The second, in Tahoe and later, was optional through version 26.3. It’s mandatory starting in 26.4 and Golden Gate.

The older method is worth understanding if you set up FileVault years ago; the newer one is much safer.

How to view the key

With Tahoe, Apple made three key changes:

  • View anytime: You can view the FileVault Recovery Key at any time after it is created—it’s no longer shown just once ever.
  • No iCloud account escrow: Simple iCloud escrow is no more.
  • Recovery Key in Passwords: The FileVault Recovery Key is added to Passwords. If you have Passwords syncing enabled with iCloud, the key is synced using end-to-end encryption—not simple Apple Account access—among your devices.

If you didn’t interact with FileVault when upgrading to Tahoe or installing 26.1, 26.2, or 26.3, you will be forced in a simple process when you install 26.4 or later, or upgrade from any pre-26.4 version of macOS to Golden Gate. I recommend upgrading manually in 26.0 to 26.3, using the steps below.

In System Settings > Privacy & Security > FileVault, you can click the Show button, validate with Touch ID or a password, and display the key in full.

You can also view the key in Passwords.

In the initial iOS 26/iPadOS 26 release (or maybe the first few), the Recovery Key synced to iPhones and iPads, appearing in the Passwords app, but lacking any information except the Recovery Key label and the key itself. Apple fixed this in a later update, ensuring the information appears identically on all platforms.

Even though the Recovery Key now syncs via iCloud, you could still wind up with a problem:

  • With Passwords, if you lose access to all your devices besides your Mac, and it cannot start up using your password, you need another way to access the Recovery Key. Storing it in Passwords is not enough given the consequences of not having it.
  • If you don’t use Passwords, you must use another password manager or some other secure method to make sure you can access it if your Mac becomes unavailable.

Check an older key still works

If you set up a locally stored Recovery Key before Tahoe, you can use a Mac command-line tool to validate that the Recovery Key you have on hand is truly accurate without trying to reset an account password. In Terminal, enter sudo fdesetup validaterecovery and press Return.

At the prompt, enter your administrator password, and then paste or enter the Recovery Key. If the result is anything but true, try re-entering. If it continues to produce false or an error, it’s time to reset FileVault.

If you want to disable FileVault, rotate your Recovery Key (because it was exposed), or upgrade to the new method in Tahoe 26.0–26.3, follow these steps:

  1. Go to System Settings > Privacy & Security > FileVault and disable FileVault.
  2. Click Turn Off Encryption.
  3. Use Touch ID or enter your password, as prompted.
  4. “Decryption” may take a moment; really, it’s making a few low-level changes in the startup partition. Stop here if you simply wanted to disable FileVault; otherwise, proceed.
  5. Now, re-enable the switch. If it’s been more than a moment since you carried out step 3, you may be prompted to use Touch ID or enter your administrator password.
  6. “Encrypting” may appear for a moment as macOS rewrites the startup information. There’s no additional action you need to take.

Unlocking remotely, as a last resort

Starting in Tahoe, Apple added an option to enter a Recovery Key via SSH if Remote Login is enabled on your Mac and it’s connected to a network. This could be useful in desperate circumstances, where you’re unable to type directly on the Mac, or it’s located in a hard-to-reach location. Whatever the reason, consider enabling Remote Login if you’re concerned, as described in which Mac sharing services are safe to turn on.

What Apple changed, and why

Before Tahoe, Apple let you choose between two options:

  • Store locally: The key was generated, displayed to you, and never stored anywhere. You could never retrieve it after seeing it once.
  • Use escrow: The key was securely stored in your iCloud account.

I never liked the iCloud option much, though it was less scary than a “show once, lose forever” local key. However, iCloud escrow had three implications:

  • If you somehow lost access to your iCloud account, the key was not retrievable. (If you could still log in to your Mac, you could disable FileVault and re-enable it to generate a new key you stored locally.)
  • If someone gained access to your Apple Account credentials, they could unlock a Mac you own that they have access to by using the FileVault recovery process.
  • A government agency, rightly or wrongly, could have forced Apple legally or extrajudicially to provide this key for a device they had seized or otherwise obtained. To my knowledge, this has never occurred, but it’s possible Apple would have been constrained from revealing it in any country in which it occurred; that seems unlikely given the company’s stance on encryption and privacy.

Apple’s operating system and cloud security teams must have had thoughts like this when they revamped Recovery Key access in Tahoe.

We’re all quite rightly concerned about our private data stored on our most personal devices—the ones we carry with us all the time. Apple has done a stellar job in locking down access to an iPhone, iPad, Mac, or Apple Watch. But there’s still a fear: what if someone guesses our passcode or passphrase, or uses some new cracking technology to break in?

Apple offers an excellent option that can assuage some fears. You can remote erase your device by sending it an irreversible command that takes place immediately if it’s connected to the internet, or as soon as it’s next connected—if it ever connects again.

What happens when you erase a device in Find My?

  • A confirmation email is sent to your Apple Account email address.
  • When you erase a device remotely using Find My, Activation Lock remains on to protect it. Your Apple Account password is required to reactivate it.
  • If you erase a device that had iOS 15, iPadOS 15, or later installed, you can use Find My to locate or play a sound on the device. Otherwise, you won’t be able to locate or play a sound on it. You may still be able to locate your Mac or Apple Watch if it’s near a previously used Wi-Fi network.

Erase an iPhone or iPad

The last resort in some cases (or first in others) is a remote wipe, in which all the user data on an iPhone or iPad is erased.

An erased device that has Find My enabled before erasure and remains associated with an Apple Account cannot be unlocked without the account password due to Activation Lock.

The erase option lets you provide a phone number and message so that a person who found (or stole) your device can get in touch. The device is essentially useless to them without the password.

Once you erase a device (or if someone else has), Find My can find its location only if it’s an iPhone or iPad running iOS 15/iPadOS 15 or later. Before that release, erasing a device disables its ability to send Find My tracking data when connected to the internet.

You can remove a device from your Find My list; see how Activation Lock protects a lost or stolen device.

It’s a multi-step process to prevent accidental erasure; you can cancel at any stage until the last step:

The device will be erased immediately at the last step. If you’re using two-factor authentication, it is also removed from your trusted devices at once.

  1. Go to the Find My app 3ef46077881e8558ba33ff4dc013dbbe.
  2. Tap or click Devices at the bottom of the screen, then tap or click the name of the iPhone you want to erase.
  3. Tap or click Erase or Erase This Device.
  4. You’re warned that everything is about to be erased. Tap or click Continue.
  5. Optionally enter a phone number at which you can be reached after it’s erased, and tap or click Erase.
  6. Enter your Apple Account password and tap or click Erase. If this is another member’s device, accessible via Family Sharing, enter their Apple Account password.

If the device is online, the Erase action immediately wipes all your data. It’s fast because it throws away encryption keys that are used to secure your iPhone or iPad data—it doesn’t have to write zeros over all the data. If the device is offline, the erase begins as soon as it next comes online through any networking method.

What you actually lose

Wiping your device isn’t as bad for your stored data as it sounds. All iPhones and iPads are set by default to back up the unique data that’s stored on them, like settings, passwords, and documents created by or associated with apps. These backups can be either local to a Mac on a particular computer or remote to iCloud.

Apps are stored centrally, not in a backup, and restored from Apple’s servers; the same is true with synced books and purchased music, movies and TV programs. If you use iCloud Photos and Sync Library (for Music), that media is stored in the cloud and synced. (If you’re not using either, you probably sync music with a Mac or Windows system. This is a good time to check that you’re up to date with syncing.)

If you erase your device, and then either recover it or obtain a new device, you can restore from your most recent backup. If you were syncing any items to your device through Photos, Music, or other apps or tools on a Mac, you can then sync them back to the device. For items stored in iCloud, the restore process downloads them again.

You can accelerate restoring an iPhone or iPad with Apple’s Quick Start. Place one of your iPhones or iPads near another and follow the steps provided. This streamlines setup. In a final step, you can choose to restore from an iCloud or other backup.

If any unique data was syncing from your iPad or iPhone to iCloud, Dropbox, Exchange, or another service, you should retain changes up to the moment the device disconnected from a cellular or Wi-Fi network. You will lose only changes made on the device between the last sync (push, fetch, or manual) for each account and the remote wipe.

Erase a Mac

The process of starting is nearly the same as with a mobile device:

Macs can’t be tracked after erasure. The device will be erased immediately at the last step. Two-factor authentication will also drop it from your trusted devices.

  1. Select the device in any Find My app and reveal its sheet.
  2. Tap or click Erase This Device.
  3. Review Apple’s warning. Click Continue.
  4. Enter a message that will be displayed to someone who has or finds the machine and click Erase.
  5. Enter your Apple Account password and tap Erase. If this is another member’s device, accessible via Family Sharing, enter their Apple Account password.

The selected Mac will now be erased. How long that will take depends on hardware features. Erasure is nearly instantaneous.

Be sure you always have a current backup that you can restore from in case your Mac dies, there’s a natural or house disaster (fire, flood, collapse), you lose it, or someone breaks it or steals it.

macOS has many privacy and security settings that can be turned off or tuned, reflecting in part how you interact with a computer versus a mobile device. Let’s start with System Settings > Privacy & Security, which collects several controls and options. I also mention settings in Users & Groups, and Lock Screen, and in the Keychain Access utility, that deserve a quick look.

There is more on FileVault separately.

Unlock the pane or setting

Apple requires you to prove your identity when accessing more sensitive elements of System Settings. First, click a setting, like changing “Allow applications from” to App Store. Now:

  • Touch ID: If you have Touch ID, you’re prompted for biometric authentication. You can also click Use Password to enter your account password, then click Unlock.
  • No Touch ID: You’re prompted to type in the administrator password. Enter it and click Unlock.

Some settings, such as Users & Groups, prompt for your administrator password even when Touch ID is enabled.

With an Apple Watch, you can also unlock many settings by using a side button double-press. Go to System Settings > Touch ID & Password and enable your Apple Watch under “Use Apple Watch to unlock your applications and your Mac.”

That option also lets your Apple Watch unlock your Mac’s screen, as described below.

Require an unlock for all preferences

You can force yourself or users of the Mac to have to unlock all preferences before using them. Click the Advanced button in Privacy & Security, and then select or enable “Require an administrator password to access system-wide preferences.” Items like Sharing settings can otherwise be used without an administrator password.

Settings > Touch ID & Password and System Settings > Lock Screen offer two additional password-related features worth examining.

Adjust password preferences

In Touch ID & Password, the top of the setting says “A login password has been set for this user” if you set one. Click Change to update it.

You should always have a password set for your Mac, even if you’re the only person in your house, because a password to access your computer is a fundamental building block of security. If someone accesses your computer without your permission or steals your computer, you want at minimum this level of protection.

Once you change your password, you can’t use the old one again. While that might seem obvious, Apple added a grace period starting in iOS 17/iPadOS 17: change the passcode on an iPhone or iPad and you can still use the old one for 72 hours. Apple never added this to macOS, possibly for unknown security reasons.

In Settings > Lock Screen, select Immediately from the “Require password after screen saver begins or display is turned off” to, you know, do what it says on the label: force your Mac to lock when it goes to sleep, or when the screen saver activates and a period of time passes. You can also set it to wait for durations from 5 seconds to 8 hours.

How to sleep or lock your Mac

Apple offers lots of ways to let or force your Mac to go to sleep or initiate its screen saver. Here are several:

  • Turn display off on…when inactive: In Settings > Lock Screen, you can set “Turn display off on [battery, power adapter] when inactive” to durations from 1 minute to 3 hours or Never. “Battery” and “power adapter” appear separately on laptops; only “power adapter” appears on desktops.
  • Screen saver: Go to System Settings > Wallpaper, click Screen Saver, and use the “Start Screen Saver” pop-up menu. Choose a duration greater than Never for how long your Mac must be idle before the screen saver activates.
  • Lock screen menu: Choose Apple menu > Lock Screen, and either the lock screen appears or the screen saver, depending on your settings. You can also press ⌘-Control-Q.
  • Hot corner: Assign Lock Screen or Start Screen Saver to an action in System Settings > Desktop & Dock > Hot Corners. Each corner may have a different action assigned from a diverse list.

When you return, you can enter the password; or, on Macs with built-in or keyboard-based Touch ID enabled, unlock with Touch ID. See how to set up Touch ID and Face ID.

Touch ID may be disabled in certain circumstances for added security. See when biometric lockout happens.

You can choose Never, but I’d suggest…never doing this. Nearly everyone should pick Immediately or a short time duration—otherwise, every time you walk away from an active Mac, anyone with physical access can jiggle the mouse or touch the trackpad and access your stuff.

You can crank that up a notch if you’re at higher risk of physical access or theft: click the Advanced button in Privacy & Security, select “Log out automatically after inactivity,” and enter a duration in minutes. The Mac logs you out of your account after that period passes, raising the bar for a physical break-in. While the lock screen should be sufficient, background apps and other settings are in effect that could make your machine slightly more at risk than if it’s in a logged-out state.

If you have an Apple Watch, an iPhone, and a Mac signed in to the same iCloud account, you will have an additional option in System Settings > Touch ID & Password: “Use your Apple Watch to unlock your applications and your Mac.” Any Apple Watch that meets the preceding criteria appears in a list, each with its own switch. Enable one (or more) if you want your Mac to be automatically unlocked when it’s locked, you’re close by, and you’re wearing your watch. This setting also lets you unlock apps that require Touch ID via your Apple Watch, including the Apple Passwords app, and some system features.

Just tap the keyboard, keypad, or mouse as if you were jostling it to get it to show you a password dialog or a Touch ID prompt, and the Apple Watch and Mac have a conversation. Bluetooth and Wi-Fi must be enabled on the Mac for it to work.

Conversely, you might find unlocking your Mac with an Apple Watch is a security risk if you are subject to targeted attacks by a government or individuals.

Optionally, you can have a message appear on a lock screen. In Settings > Lock Screen, enable “Show message when locked,” click the Set button, enter a message, and click OK. This message can be useful if other people use the same Mac and you want to alert them as to why it’s idle.

I have my Mac in a day-lit basement office. Sometimes, I’ll be walking across our main floor, and my Apple Watch lights up that the Mac was unlocked a floor below!

Control what can be plugged in

Apple has options that can prevent peripherals, computers, and other accessories from connecting over built-in ports, like USB (Type-A and USB-C), Lightning, and SD Card, depending on your device. You can prevent peripherals from connecting via Lightning, Thunderbolt/USB, or the Smart Connector (for an iPad Smart Keyboard), or allowing a card to mount via the SD Card slot without permission.

Go to Settings/System Settings > Privacy & Security > Wired Accessories (iPhone/iPad)/Accessories (Mac). Modify the Allow Accessories to Connect setting. You have four options:

  • Always ask
  • Ask for new accessories
  • Automatically allow when unlocked
  • Always allow

In any case in which you have to grant permission, you must enter your administrator permission—Touch ID or Face ID, even when available, isn’t considered a high-enough bar.

Starting in macOS 26 Tahoe, you can also choose a security policy for accessories at startup. You can use this to prevent peripherals other than drives from interacting with the system before a macOS session has started.

First, restart into recovery mode; see how macOS protects its own system files. Next, choose Utilities > Startup Security Utility. Now, choose an option as above from the “Allow accessories to connect” menu.