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Your Mac has a low-level secret-managing system called Keychain, which is covered more fully in where Apple stores your passwords and passkeys. Keychain contains passwords for lots of different things that need to be both available on demand and secured against unauthorized access. This includes passwords to log in to apps and Wi-Fi networks, passkeys for websites at which you’ve enrolled to use them, credentials for local network servers, encryption certificates, and other important information your Mac needs to function securely.

If you sync Passwords with iCloud, Keychain also contains credentials for websites where you have accounts and may include your credit card details, separate from the stored Apple Pay payment card information on Macs with Touch ID or an Apple silicon Mac paired with a Magic Keyboard with Touch ID.

Because this information is valuable and potentially sensitive, a Mac encrypts the contents of your keychain. However, whenever your Keychain is unlocked, your credentials can be passed to apps, websites, and network services without any intervention on your part.

And how do you unlock your keychain? That’s the wild part: all you have to do is log in to your Mac’s user account. And—as covered in what launches on your Mac—another default setting is to log you in to your account automatically.

As noted earlier, if you have FileVault enabled, you can’t log in automatically. However, after you manually log in, you’re in the same boat as anyone else. See how to turn on FileVault.

In other words, unless you take steps to change the defaults, merely turning on your Mac might unlock your keychain!

Anyone else who might have physical access to your Mac could then log in to all your web accounts (like your bank, Amazon, or PayPal), file servers, and other resources where you’ve saved credentials (like Music or the App Store).

There are a few bright spots:

  • No one can see the actual keychain entry’s secure text without knowing your macOS account login password.
  • Within Safari, an unwanted party can’t get a list of all the sites at which you have passwords stored from Safari, Keychain, or the Passwords app without your password.
  • Even when a password is autofilled in Safari or in an app, there’s typically no way to copy the password to view it as text.
  • Macs with active Touch ID hardware and password autofill enabled will drop in your password only when you use a valid fingerprint or enter your password (System Settings > Touch ID & Password > “Use Touch ID for autofilling passwords”).

Touch ID can be built in, as with a laptop model, or for an Apple silicon Mac, provided via a paired Magic Keyboard with Touch ID. See how to set up Touch ID and Face ID.

Yet the storm cloud lingers: someone can use all your passwords when the conditions above aren’t true. These actions will help prevent that:

  • Leave FileVault enabled: Because FileVault is a high-value way to prevent power-up access to your computer, most people should leave it enabled, and it is on by default starting in macOS 26. Some people may find it more trouble than the potential of losing access to their files; see how to turn on FileVault for both sides.
  • Turn off automatic login, if you don’t have FileVault enabled: See what launches on your Mac for how to disable it.
  • Enable Touch ID and AutoFill: This blocks access to autofilled passwords without your fingerprint or password.
  • Lock your Mac after a duration: See the Mac settings worth changing.

Lock the keychain separately

For most people, setting their Mac to lock when it sleeps, when the display is off, or after a screen-saver duration has passed, as described in the Mac settings worth changing, is enough. But macOS also lets you lock the keychain after a set period, even if your Mac remains unlocked.

First, open Keychain Access, located at /System/Library/CoreServices/Applications. Click Open Keychain Access at the prompt.

Select your login keychain, and choose Edit > Change Settings for Keychain “login”. You can select “Lock after X minutes of inactivity,” pick a time delay, and click Save. (The “Lock when sleeping” option makes little sense—you should set your Mac to lock when sleeping, as that locks the Keychain and your session.)

Note that you can only change settings for the login keychain and your custom keychains, if any. You cannot change these settings for the System, System Roots, or iCloud (if enabled).

The basic idea of a sandbox is that an app has restrictions that define where it can read and write data, as well as the kinds of inputs and outputs it can monitor or make use of. It has to “keep its sand in the sandbox”: it can’t see or touch files anywhere outside its designated space, or listen to mics, view video, or capture keystrokes without explicit permission that you give it when prompted or that you configure to allow.

Apple rarely uses the term sandboxing in end-user materials, though they employ the concept all over.

The intention is to prevent buggy, corrupted, or malicious apps from messing with data and files from other apps or macOS itself. It has the additional benefit of limiting legitimate software from accessing personal information and inputs that you don’t think it needs to.

There are three kinds of sandboxing in macOS. The oldest affects apps as a whole.

App sandboxing

Available since Mac OS X 10.7.5 Lion, macOS’s app sandboxing restricts the kind of behavior apps can engage in outside their bounds—particularly their own set of data and caches.

Suppose you visit a rogue website in Safari that attempts to execute some dastardly code through an exploit someone has discovered in JavaScript, the popular programming language that powers web apps. Because Safari runs in a sandbox, that malicious code can’t affect other files: it can’t read your contacts, delete system files, add a startup item, or do any other mischief outside the browser window without your permission.

System files are additionally protected in yet another kind of sandbox. See how macOS protects its own system files.

Apps downloaded from the Mac App Store must be sandboxed (with some exceptions for older apps). In addition, Apple apps included with macOS are sandboxed, and so are many third-party apps available directly from their developers. (That’s usually because they also offer the apps in the App Store and don’t want to create two entirely different versions.)

But nothing in the design of macOS (at least, not yet) prevents you as a user from running a non-sandboxed app if you want to. Unless you get an app from the App Store or the developer tells you the app is sandboxed you have no easy way to know.

Sandboxed apps can read and write files in non-default places if you agree to let them do so. You’re prompted when you try to access a new location, and have to give simple permission: a click, not a password. That’s then remembered by macOS from then on. (Under certain rare circumstances, you might have to reauthorize an app.)

You can’t turn off sandboxing or adjust its settings. All you can really do is be alert—if an app asks for access to a folder you don’t think it should be using, that’s because the folder isn’t currently within its sandbox. Think carefully before saying yes—if it’s unexpected, the app could be trying to do something it shouldn’t.

Camera and microphone permission

Since Mojave, macOS asks you questions when an app or other software tries to use audio input or video cameras for the first time.

This was added to prevent potential snooping by malicious software, by having a deeply wired system opt-in requirement. It’s one thing for a malware developer to hack into your camera through software that runs with user-level permissions; it’s another for them to subvert the system and block the warning.

A lot of security and privacy companies offer A/V input features in their anti-malware software or standalone apps, some with more granularity (like “allow for an hour”) and a different workflow for detection. The free OverSight app from security researcher Patrick Wardle is a great place to start (along with all his other apps).

Apps don’t have to do anything special to request access. If it hasn’t been granted access, the first time an app attempts to use a camera, mic, or other audio input, macOS prompts you to approve it or not. If the app wants to bypass Apple’s built-in system, as with Zoom, you see a more severe warning about what it could access.

Once approved, manage access for apps and other components via System Settings > Privacy & Security. In some cases, deselecting an item results in a prompt to choose to quit and restart the app you changed settings for and offers Later as the other option.

Notebook Macs have a hardware disconnect switch that cuts off mic input when the lid is closed, too.

Some apps may have multiple entries in the list: one is for the user-facing app you launch and another for helper software that runs in the background.

Apps may respond differently if you deselect mic or camera permission. Some may not recognize they lack access and crash or behave erratically. Others test for access and prompt, such as Zoom after I allowed and then disabled camera access.

To let you know when certain inputs are in use, Control Center briefly displays a message showing recent use of your mic or camera. Click to reveal Control Center, and you’ll see a mic or camera icon followed by an app name, sometimes followed by “recently” if it’s active or was just active. The status message disappears quickly.

Any use of video, audio, or screen control/screen sharing lights up a colored icon in the menu bar—a green video icon, an orange mic icon, or a purple screen use icon—that indicates active or recent usage. Click the menu to reveal available specialty options for camera and mic effects, like Studio Light for your video or Voice Isolation for your mic, or to see what app is making use of your screen. (I’ve even seen two screen use icons: one for the Screen Sharing app and one for general screen-recording.)

Folder permission

In addition to app-based and A/V input sandboxing discussed above and personal-data privacy controls discussed just below, Apple uses sandboxing for all apps, which requires your permission for them to access certain folders. These locations include:

  • The Desktop, Documents, and Downloads folders in your account
  • Your iCloud Drive access
  • Cloud storage from third parties that appears via Finder-accessible folders, like Dropbox and Google Drive
  • Network volumes and removable volumes, each as a separate category of permission

The idea is that it’s suspicious if an arbitrary app needed to read from, much less write to, any of these locations without your explicit knowledge and permission. This can also help subvert ransomware, which tries to access important files wherever they are stored.

Whenever an app first tries to access items in any of these locations, your Mac prompts you to ensure you want to allow it.

If you use an external startup drive, you will see this message frequently. Every time an app wants to save a file on the startup volume, a Mac prompts for permission. By design, Apple prevents apps from saving to external volumes without a grant of permission.

As with mic and camera input, you can view and revoke permissions in System Settings > Privacy & Security: select Files and Folders and scroll to find the app.

Once you grant permission, you can only disable it—you can’t remove it from the list. The only way to remove an app from the list is to empty the list entirely using the command-line utility tccutil. It’s rare you would need to do this.

Apple released Siri AI in 2026: a digital assistant that works with voice recognition and typing, and represents a major expansion of the previous Apple Intelligence system woven throughout their operating systems. Siri AI marks the biggest step forward in this area the company has ever taken.

This comprehensive guide rounds up all of our Siri AI and Apple Intelligence coverage, making it a useful resource for casual users who haven’t had a chance to test out the new Siri and those who might not remember all of the new Siri features. It’s also a great resource to send to friends and family members who have questions about Siri AI features.

How Apple got here

Apple started deploying what’s loosely called “artificial intelligence” over a decade ago, when they silently switched the original Siri voice-assistant system to use a neural network—a software model that mimics neurons in the brain—in 2014. Unfortunately, even then, Siri was always somewhat frustrating to use unless you learned exactly the set of words you should use for particular kinds of instructions, and were patient when it got it wrong—repeatedly. Other voice assistants, like Amazon’s Alexa and Google Assistant, offered more natural interactions.

Meet Siri AI

Siri AI is the latest evolution of Apple’s original voice-only assistant. On supported devices, you can trigger Siri AI by voice, through a button press, or by swiping and typing, among other methods. Then you can ask it questions, or just search stuff that’s on your device.

Chatting with it

For the first time in Siri history, you can ask Siri questions or ask it to do something and almost always get a satisfactory outcome. Revolutionary! Even better, Siri retains context: you can have an ongoing conversation in the Siri app, and the vastly upgraded chatbot feature now doesn’t lose the thread.

Accessibility features

Apple devices have long offered a wide range of features intended to make them easier to use for people who have difficulties with some aspect of the default interface—which doesn’t necessarily imply a disability, but also encompasses personal preference and a limited tolerance for Apple’s Liquid Glass shenanigans, for example.

Visual Intelligence

Visual Intelligence’s remit has grown substantially since it originally let your iPhone describe what it saw via the Camera in iOS 18.2. Generally, Visual Intelligence lets you query what it “sees” in a screenshot or through the camera, or take action on what appears. Swipe your finger around something to prompt a visual search that can explain what you’ve highlighted.

Inside the apps

Apple Intelligence has its own role in Apple’s operating systems, starting iOS 18, iPadOS 18, and macOS 15. The company expanded Apple Intelligence offerings in the version 26 operating systems, and then added many more features across apps in version 27. These are the Apple Intelligence features built into Apple’s own apps.

The bits we don’t recommend

As writers and technologists with combined experience in the tech industry of well over six decades—much of it focused on Apple—we have fairly well-developed opinions about which features are genuinely useful to a wide range of people and which ones lack practical utility and are more effective as marketing tools. That’s especially true for people in our age range (Gen X) and older, who constitute the vast majority of our readers.

Even though we want to be thorough and describe all the Apple Intelligence capabilities, there are a few that we think most people are better off avoiding because they may waste your time or may negatively impact your life. Those are the Image Playground app, Genmoji, and Write with Siri (formerly known as Writing Tools); you can make up your own mind as to whether they’re worth your time.

Settings worth changing

The Siri pane of Settings/System Settings lets you configure numerous aspects of Siri AI. You can use this pane to understand whether Siri AI is currently engaged, which is not always the case.

While macOS is a friendly operating system, it’s all Unix under the hood, which means it runs by partitioning access to files and apps by users and groups, selectively providing permission based on who you are and what groups you belong to.

If your Mac has only one user—you!—it’s all very simple, because you don’t need to secure yourself from yourself. However, you still need the following information, as it relates to how you manage a single-user Mac, too.

There are several important principles about user accounts, and how private your files really are covers the other side of the same question:

  • There are four main types of Mac user accounts: administrator, standard, guest user, and sharing-only. Of these, administrator and standard are by far the most common. The usual reason to have more than one account is so that each person who uses a particular Mac can have a separate space for files and settings. But accounts can also be used to restrict access to certain files or resources in order to improve your security.
  • Every Mac needs at least one administrator account. When you set up a new Mac or perform a clean installation of macOS, you’ll be prompted to create an administrator account before you can do anything else. That’s because only administrators can perform certain crucial tasks (see the next bullet point). You can have more than one administrator account, and in fact, it isn’t a bad idea to set up an extra one to use for testing and troubleshooting.

When something fails for me on one account, such as a software app or Safari extension, I often log in to a second administrator account on the same Mac to determine whether it’s a problem with my account or the software—or the whole Mac.

  • Administrator accounts are all-powerful. Administrators can create, modify, and delete other user accounts. They can unlock any pane of System Settings, and authorize any type of software installation. They can (with a quick trip to the Terminal utility) open any file on the Mac, belonging to any user—and can change any non–system file’s permissions. They can upgrade macOS to a new version. The list goes on and on.
  • Standard accounts can do most ordinary things. Standard users can run apps, work with files, and perform most ordinary day-to-day tasks. When a user with a standard account tries to do something that only an administrator is allowed to do, simply entering an administrator’s username and password (or having an administrator do so) does the trick—there’s no need to log out or switch accounts first.
  • Apps get their privileges from the user who opens them. If someone with a standard account launches an app, that app can access only the files and folders available to that user. If someone with an administrator account launches an app, that app has more expansive access to files on the Mac, although sandboxing limits that scope somewhat; see how to control which apps use your Mac camera and files. A malicious or compromised app launched by someone with an administrator account might be able to do serious damage across the Mac.

You can create as many user accounts as you need, and switch between them easily. To keep your Mac secure, you should make sure you have the right number and types of accounts, as below.

Set up a standard account for others

A standard account has permission mostly to affect files and applications installed within the Home > Username folder. It’s the right kind of account to set up for people using a Mac who aren’t sophisticated users, don’t need system-level access or the ability to install apps for all users, or shouldn’t be given the same level of trust on a shared computer as its owner or administrator.

At one point many Mac experts recommended a standard account for day-to-day use even by its main user or owner, and to use the credentials for an administrator account only when you’re installing software or engaged in other tasks that require access to the depths of your system.

However, macOS has changed significantly over the last several years. System files are now locked down and can’t be accidentally deleted or overwritten. Many actions you take require a Touch ID or password confirmation. To be frank: I’ve never used a standard account as my regular login, and I don’t see a reason for anyone else to do so at this juncture, either. (I have great backups that I can fall back on if I do anything epically poorly thought out.)

If your main account is currently an administrator account but you want to make it a standard account, you can create a new administrator account (for occasional use only) and then remove the administrative privileges from your main account.

  1. Go to System Settings > Users & Groups.
  2. Click the Add User button.
  3. Enter your password if prompted.
  4. Choose Administrator from the New User pop-up menu.
  5. Fill in the fields for Full Name and Account Name (that is, a short username, such as your initials). They can be anything you like, but they must be different from those used for other accounts on your Mac. Every account, especially an administrator account, should have a password that is both strong and unique.
  6. Create a strong password and enter it in the Password and Verify fields; optionally enter a password hint.
  7. Click Create User. If you had automatic login enabled, an alert appears, asking if you want to keep it on or turn it off. Click Turn Off Automatic Login. (This won’t appear with FileVault enabled.)
  8. Choose Apple menu > Log Out Username to log out of your old administrator account.
  9. Select or enter the name of the new administrator account you just created, enter its password, and click the arrow button or press Return.
  10. Once again, go to System Settings > Users & Groups.
  11. Click the info button next to the old administrator account, then use the credentials for your new administrator account to authenticate.
  12. Deselect or disable “Allow this user to administer this computer”; this turns your erstwhile administrator account into a standard account. An alert appears, claiming that you must restart for the changes to take effect. That’s not entirely true (you need only log out), but click OK anyway.
  13. Choose Apple menu > Log Out username, then log in to your old account, now a standard one, with your password.

At this point, you may be prompted to enter the Apple Account for the new account. Since this administrator account will be for occasional use only, I suggest selecting the Don’t Sign In radio button, clicking Continue, and then confirming by clicking Skip again. If it turns out you need iCloud services with your new administrator account, you can always set them up later.

Screen Time for a child account

Screen Time is Apple’s cross-device, Apple Account-linked system for monitoring device usage and, for kids and other people one serves as a guardian for, controlling access. You can use Screen Time to track your behavior and set alerts about limits.

Screen Time isn’t strictly a security feature, and Apple overhauled it in the 27 releases; the parental controls are covered separately.

Set up a guest account

As long as you’re making changes in Users & Groups, you should think about whether you want to have a guest user account. It’s enabled by default starting way back in Yosemite. That’s usually a good idea, but if it doesn’t suit your needs, you can disable it.

With a guest user account enabled, you have a spare—and, importantly, non-administrator—account that anyone can log in to without a password. When logged in, they can run apps installed for all users, browse the web, or perform any other task that doesn’t require saving private information to disk permanently. (Guest users can, however, save data to publicly shared locations.)

If you prefer to not have a guest account, you can also restart your computer in recovery mode and choose Safari as an option. This lets a guest use Safari with zero access to locally stored files. See how macOS protects its own system files.

As soon as the guest logs out, macOS deletes the guest’s temporary home folder, leaving everything just as it was beforehand. If you ever need to give someone temporary access to your computer, using the guest account is simpler than having to set up and later delete a conventional account for that person, and more secure than letting them use your account.

If you have FileVault enabled, the Guest user can access only Safari.

  1. Go to System Settings > Users & Groups.
  2. Click the info button to the right of the Guest User entry.
  3. Enter your administrator password if prompted.
  4. Enable or disable “Allow guests to log in to this computer”.

With guest access enabled, you can optionally select either or both of the following checkboxes in the Guest User settings:

  • Limit adult websites: Apple blocks risqué-and-beyond sites.
  • Allow guest users to connect to shared folders: This doesn’t affect the way someone logged in as a guest can access shared folders on this Mac, as you might expect. Rather, when selected, people on other devices on the network can connect to this Mac’s shared folders without supplying a username and password.

Give every user their own account

If you’re the only person who uses your Mac, you can skip this topic. But if you share your Mac with family members, coworkers, or friends, do yourself—and them—a favor and create a separate (standard) account for each person. And then, insist that everyone log in to their user-specific accounts when using the Mac. That way, any damage (accidentally deleted files, changed preferences, and so on) will be restricted to that user’s space and not affect the entire Mac.

To enable switching from one user to another without having to log out (and thus quit all your apps):

  1. Click the Control Center button.
  2. Click Edit Controls.
  3. Enter “fast” in the search field.
  4. Click the Fast User Switching icon.
  5. Choose either Add to Control Center or Add to Menu Bar. You can choose one and then the other.

If you add it to Control Center, you can drag to put it where you want among other controls.

To switch users, access the list of users by clicking the account button, account name, or full name from the menu bar or opening Control Center and clicking the Fast User Switching control. Choose the name of the user you want to log in as. That list also includes Login Window: select it to drop into the Login Window screen.

An iPhone or iPad will detect any item within Bluetooth range that is traveling with you persistently, whether the device works with Apple’s or Google’s crowdsourced ecosystem. An alert helps you take action.

An iPhone or iPad shows an alert that reads “AirTag Found Moving with You” or “Item Detected With You,” depending on which is true. iOS 17.5/iPadOS 17.5 or later can also detect Google trackers.

You might see such an alert because you borrowed something that has an AirTag attached or hidden in it without that person sharing the item with you. For instance, my wife has a Find My item in the car she drives most frequently. We solved the problem with device sharing. See how to share an AirTag with someone else.

The name of an Apple tracker will appear as Person Name’s Name They Gave Device, like “Moses Johnson’s Wallet.” I haven’t determined where Apple pulls the name from, but likely the Apple Account associated with the device—another strong clue to or the actual identity of the tracking person. If the name isn’t retrievable, the generic model type is shown instead. Google items also reveal some identifying information, like their serial number.

Apple told me that the alert appears for someone in three particular circumstances:

  • They arrive home, as defined in the Me card in Contacts.
  • They arrive at a Significant Location (see sidebar ahead).
  • It is the “end of the day” and they haven’t been alerted yet. Apple declined to explain when the end of the day is measured.

Apple once said they planned, in a future release, to provide alerts “sooner” than the scenarios described above. They didn’t define what “sooner” means, however, and never set a timeline for changes. It’s been years!

Because Find My items routinely change the encrypted Bluetooth ID they transmit, this recognition that an item is moving with someone has to happen over what we believe is 12 to 24 hours. Apple doesn’t disclose the interval at which the Bluetooth ID changes.

What you can do about it

The person who receives the alert can ignore it. They may know they have someone else’s Find My item with them, or they may not know why they’re receiving it, and it isn’t of interest to them.

However, the person who sees the alert can tap it to open a screen explaining why it appeared. The screen explains that “The owner can look up its location,” that they can mute the alert, that they can play a sound, and that they can get “visual guidance” to locate it. Tap Continue, and a map appears showing the track detected with a red dashed line.

This map can be viewed later by tapping the item in the Items/Unknown Items Detected With You list in the Items view; see below.

This track is made up of points at which a device has detected that the item is traveling with someone. The device knows only the time-bounded encrypted Bluetooth ID of the item and a location that the device determines.

They can now choose an option:

  • Find: Find My guides you to the item, either with Precision Finding with an AirTag (see how to use Precision Finding) or imprecise location via Bluetooth.
  • Play Sound: Play Sound is the rare communication that passes from a device to a Find My item. It uses Bluetooth to trigger a sound from the device to help determine its physical location. AirTags produce a mid-level volume pattern of audio; the Chipolo ONE Spot has a 120 dB emitter that is pretty impossible to not pay attention to. Other Find My items vary from loud to extremely loud.
  • Pause Tracking Notifications: Pause Safety Alerts doesn’t disable tracking, but stops the device from popping up the “Detected/Moving with You” warning. Strangers can tap to disable notifications for a day; people in your Family Sharing group see the additional option to pause indefinitely. (I recommend sharing an item in this case.)

If you don’t take an immediate action on an item that’s been identified as traveling with you, it appears in the Items list in a new category, Items Detected With You.

I’d argue your best strategy is to find the device using Find and Play Sound, then use the Find My app’s ability to learn more about the item as described in how to identify an AirTag you have found.

You can use the native Find My app on an iPhone, iPad, or Apple Watch (the Find Items app) to find nearby Find My items. See how to identify an AirTag you have found.

With Android 6 or later and a 2024 update, you should receive alerts about Apple and Google tracking devices with no additional effort on your part. The message and options are similar to those on an iPhone or iPad.

There’s also a manual scanning app called Tracker Detect that Apple released for Android. It requires Android 9 or later. See how to identify an AirTag you have found.

Why an AirTag chirps alone

The iPhone or iPad requirement for the previous notification leaves out people with older hardware or who use an Android phone that doesn’t have Apple’s Tracker Detect app installed (or no smartphone at all). For them, Apple has the device itself issue a secondary warning.

Whenever an item becomes separated from its owner, it starts an internal timer. At a random point 8 to 24 hours later, the AirTag or third-party item plays a sound—but only when it’s moved. This timer is internal to the device, so it’s not reliant on other hardware tracking Bluetooth IDs over time.

Some third-party trackers produce a sound dramatically louder than the 1st-generation AirTag. Apple increased audio volume with the 2nd-generation AirTag, which the company says is 50% louder. While the company declined to answer questions about loudness and anti-stalking measures, it’s clear that the more intense sound benefits both finding an AirTag you placed intentionally and one placed without your knowledge.

This requirement that the device be moved strikes a balance between deterring stalking and allowing the use of Find My items for items that you want to remain in place without you around. Because the owner of an AirTag or other item knows where they left it the last time their paired device was nearby, the only information they can derive if it isn’t moved, is that it has remained in place. That could reveal some “negative knowledge”: that someone’s purse or car, say, remained in place. Yet, the unwanted-tracking party would never be sure whether or not it were moved and made a great racket. That risk will help deter misuse.

A great justification for the movement requirement comes from an example a friend gave me. His son wanted to put an AirTag on his bike when he parked it at school for more than eight hours at a time. If the bike started keening while left behind, this might lead passersby or university police or security to investigate.

The same is true if you’re traveling or living with other people. If you or others leave bags or items behind while elsewhere for extended periods, you and they don’t want a sound to go off in the middle of the night, say, or from an obscure closet.

Significant Locations stay on your device

Your iPhone or iPad takes note of places you frequently visit, and some others it thinks are “significant.” I went to a sushi place once, was there for a few minutes picking up takeout, and my phone decided that was significant.

Significant Locations are stored only on your devices, and are synced using end-to-end encryption. Apple says they never have access to them, and that iPhones, iPads, and Macs use them entirely on-device.

These locations are stored in Settings/System Settings > Privacy & Security > Location Services > System Services (tap on an iPhone or iPad; click Details on a Mac). The label reads Significant Locations & Routes starting in iOS 26/iPadOS 26 and Tahoe; it’s called Significant Locations in earlier releases. Tap the item or click Details next to it on a Mac. You can view the places you consider significant, disable the feature, or clear the locations currently stored.

Where to get help

There are many organizations beyond law enforcement eager to help people trapped in situations of domestic abuse or child subject to violence and an unsafe environment. For adults in the United States, that includes the National Domestic Violence Hotline; for children or those concerned about their welfare in the United States and Canada, the Childhelp National Child Abuse Hotline.

For those being stalked, one starting point is Safehope. It’s more likely you will need the help of police or federal authorities. Local police departments have their own paths to navigate, but for online or cyber stalking, it may be better to start with the FBI.

If the person you are worried about may be watching your device, use one they cannot see. Removing a tracker or turning off sharing can be noticed, and advocates warn that it can make a situation worse rather than better, so it is worth talking to someone before you act.

Biometric protection is a terrific safeguard to layer on top of other basic protections. By letting you use a fingerprint or your face to unlock your device, it increases security for your files and data while also making it easier for you to log in.

Touch ID first appeared on iPhones with the iPhone 5s in 2013, and was added to iPads starting with the iPad Air 2 model the next year. All subsequent iPhones and iPads included Touch ID until Face ID replaced fingerprint authentication on the iPhone starting with the iPhone X in 2017. Since then, it’s been part of every iPhone except the iPhone SE series, which retains Touch ID.

The sole iPad model with Face ID is the iPad Pro, starting with the 1st-generation 11-inch and 3rd-generation 12.9-inch models in 2018. All other iPads that can run iPadOS 26 or 27 have Touch ID, which dates back to 2014 in some iPad model lines.

Touch ID was extended to Mac laptops starting with two 2016 MacBook Pro models. It was later added to all new MacBook Pro models and the MacBook Air starting in 2018, when it became standard. However, that doesn’t help those of us with desktop Macs.

In May 2021, Apple released the Magic Keyboard with Touch ID (in both standard and extended versions) along with their new M1 iMac. This brought Touch ID to a desktop Mac for the first time. Apple later began selling this version of the Magic Keyboard separately, and while the keyboard part works with any Mac, the Touch ID sensor requires an Apple silicon processor.

Apple uses a secure wireless connection between the keyboard and the Secure Enclave module in an Apple silicon Mac to manage Touch ID. That technology is the Secure Enclave.

Apple requires the use of Touch ID or Face ID with its iPhone anti-theft feature, Stolen Device Protection.

Apple lets you choose to enable Touch ID or Face ID to unlock your device, use Apple Pay, pay for items in Apple’s various stores, validate that you want to automatically fill in a password field in Safari and some other locations, and switch between user accounts when fast user switching is turned on. Some third-party apps offer Touch ID or Face ID as a verification option.

Why Apple Pay turns itself off

You may find that your Mac has disabled Apple Pay without a notification, and you notice only when you attempt to use it in Safari or open System Settings > Wallet & Apple Pay.

This can happen for several reasons:

  • Security level changes: If you lower the level of security for an Apple silicon Mac, you may see the message “Apple Pay has been disabled because the security settings of this Mac were modified.” See how macOS protects its own system files.
  • Laptop lid closed: If you have a laptop, its lid must be open. The exception? If you have an Apple silicon laptop Mac paired with a Magic Keyboard with Touch ID, you can use the keyboard’s sensor.
  • System out of date: Apple says that the “Install system data files and security updates” box should be checked for automatic installation of those files in Software Update. See how to set up automatic security updates.
  • Insecure miscellany: Apple also says ambiguously it disables Apple Pay “when it detects third-party software or malware that affects its ability to keep your payment information secure.”

Enroll in Touch ID

You can enroll your device to use Touch ID via Settings/System Settings > Touch ID & Password. Click or tap Add Fingerprint, then follow the prompts to fill in the fingerprint’s main portion, and then the edges. On a Mac, click Done to finish.

I always name the fingerprint descriptively by clicking or tapping it and then typing text.

Naming fingerprints can be a security or personal safety weakness, allowing someone who wants to coerce you to know which finger to force. However, they would also need to open the Touch ID settings to find out.

You can lock your device against Touch ID by using the wrong fingertip five times in succession; see the lockout section below. This is a good trick when you want to prevent being physically coerced into unlocking your Mac.

I like to enroll at least two of my fingers, because it’s a one-time process per fingertip and it lets me avoid remembering which finger is the right one. You can have a total of three on a Mac or five with an iPhone or iPad. Add other people in your household if you want them to be able to unlock your device or use other Touch ID-required features.

Enroll in Face ID

Face ID for the iPhone and iPad Pro (models noted above) uses an infrared laser and sensor to project and measure 30,000 separate data points on a person’s face to create a profile while also capturing other flat views. Subsequent logins repeat those tasks and introduce randomization, allowing the phone to compare the current face with the stored profile and detect face forgery.

iPhone and iPads with Face ID can recognize just one face plus an “alternate appearance,” or a common secondary appearance of yourself, like with any or different makeup, hat, or glasses. Face ID has worked in portrait orientation since its introduction on all supported devices. Landscape authentication works on all supported iPads and iPhone 13 series models and later.

Enrollment uses a similar process to Touch ID: you use Settings > Face ID & Passcode, and choose Enroll Face. The process has you move your head in a circular motion framed on screen until enough information has been gathered.

Apple says they track and retain temporary updates when they find a good match that falls outside their ideal parameters. These temporary updates are good for only a “finite” number of unlocks, which is a little vague. Maybe it’s to cope with temporary clothing choices or eyebrow plucking? A change in glasses?

You can tap Set Up an Alternative Appearance, useful if you have different ways you make yourself up or attire yourself. Apple has never made fully clear how different that can be.

Face ID relies on an “attentive” expression when you log in. This prevents unlocking the phone or tablet when you’re just glancing past the Lock screen, and it requires someone to have their eyes open. Apple says you can unlock wearing sunglasses. The emitters and sensors are designed for use in all lighting conditions, both indoors and outdoors. The alternate appearance helps here, too.

Apple offers support for facial recognition while wearing a mask with iPhone 12 models and later in portrait orientation only. Here’s how to set up the Face ID with a Mask feature:

  1. Go to Settings > Face ID & Passcode.
  2. Enter your passcode.
  3. Tap Face ID with a Mask while wearing a mask typical of the kind you normally wear.
  4. Apple now informs you of the risks and nature of Face ID with a Mask. Tap Use Face ID with a Mask to continue.
  5. While wearing a typical mask, tap Get Started and walk through the facial training system you’re already familiar with for unmasked Face ID.

Apple appears to ignore most of the mask area, so if you use patterned cloth or medical-grade masks, it shouldn’t prevent you from swapping out masks.

If you wear glasses normally with a mask, wear those while setting up Face ID with a Mask; my current enrollment shows “1 pair of glasses added.” You can have a total of four sets of glasses. Add more by tapping Add Glasses.

Face ID can be delightful as you can merely raise an iPhone or iPad to wake it and, while glancing attentively, the device unlocks.

With Apple Pay at a store payment terminal or in conjunction with Apple Pay in Safari for Mac, you have an extra step even with an unlocked iPhone or iPad. A message appears requesting payment. You double-tap the side or top button, then glance to approve the payment.

For the best results when using Apple Pay with Face ID while wearing a mask, first double-press the side button and authenticate with Face ID; then, with the screen showing “Hold Near Reader,” hold your device to the terminal. I adopted this after finding the angle of terminal, mask, and Face ID sensor were often out of alignment.

Although I recommend setting a strong passcode, you may wind up entering your passcode more frequently with Face ID than with Touch ID for a few reasons:

  • Face ID is good but not perfect; bright light can prevent a match.
  • Some models and brands of sunglasses use optical filters that apparently prevent a good or reliable match.
  • When the sensors can’t perform as exact a match as required, they defer to the passcode. This happens routinely but not constantly.
  • Face ID requires a first-use step with Ask to Buy, used for parents or guardians to approve children’s purchase requests. While Touch ID may be used without any preamble, on Face ID-equipped devices, the first time there’s an Ask to Buy request, you have to enter your Apple Account password. You can then enable Face ID for future approvals.

When biometric lockout happens

Apple disables Touch ID and Face ID in a number of cases. Technically, the operating system flushes a kind of temporary permission for accessing certain data. Entering the passcode refreshes that access. Here are several cases in which you’re required to enter the passcode again:

  • After five incorrect fingerprint or facial recognition attempts. Apple notes, in a parenthetical in their security documentation: “(though for usability, the device might offer entering a passcode or password instead of using biometrics after a smaller number of failures)”.
  • After a restart.
  • When you’ve marked the device as lost via Find My.
  • When you add or remove fingerprints or refresh Face ID.
  • When you try to visit Settings/System Settings > Touch ID/Face ID & Passcode.
  • After you try to use Emergency SOS on an iPhone to make an emergency call. This can be changed in Settings > Emergency SOS.
  • After an attempt to view your Medical ID is made on your iPhone.
  • After 48 hours of a device not being unlocked with Touch ID, Face ID, or an account password.

There’s one more case that’s hard to put into a bullet point. There’s a special countdown clock with two phases. It resets each time you enter your passcode. A 156-hour countdown begins (six and a half days). After that period, a second timer starts a four-hour countdown. If, during those last four hours, you don’t use Face ID or Touch ID to unlock your iPhone or iPad, the next time you use it, you’ll be required to enter your passcode.

You’re probably thinking: “Why?! Why, Apple?! Why!!!” Apple has never made a public statement after this biometrics lockout was added several years ago. The best I can figure, they want to ensure you have to enter your password on a regular basis so it doesn’t fall out of your brain. Now, should you be expected to keep track of the above clocks? No! Not at all! However, if you’re asked for your passcode every week or so when you wake up, and wonder why, that’s probably the reason.

You can make a variety of medical information available at Settings > Health > Medical ID. Once you create this, anyone can attempt to view it via the emergency dialer screen. Understandably, this signals your iPhone or iPad is in someone else’s hands, so locking out biometrics is a logical move.

Also, if you have Face ID with a Mask enabled, Apple reduces the interval between passcode requests on your iPhone to 6.5 hours. Every time you use Face ID (with or without a mask), enter the passcode, or use your Watch to unlock your iPhone, the 6.5-hour timer resets its countdown.

Disable Touch ID or Face ID

You may choose to stop using Touch ID or Face ID or want to use it in a more limited fashion.

If you’re in a situation in which you temporarily want to disable Touch ID or Face ID, the easiest way is to hold down either volume button and the side/top button until a screen appears a few seconds later.

iPhones show you the Emergency SOS screen, including Medical ID, if set; iPads show the Slide to Power Off button. At this point, Touch ID or Face ID is disabled, no matter what action you take. Typically, tap Cancel. (For more strategies, see how to set a stronger iPhone passcode.)

You can access your iPhone or iPad after this only by entering your passcode. However, that re-enables Touch ID or Face ID. In some countries and conditions, you can refuse to enter your passcode.

If you don’t want either biometric capability available—for instance, while crossing a national border—go to Settings > Touch ID/Face ID & Passcode and disable the four “Use Touch ID/Face ID For” switches.

In a native Find My app or the Find Items app on an Apple Watch, you can discover the location of your AirTags and other Find My items in the Items view and any someone else has shared with you. The map zooms in as with Devices; in the version 27 releases, select again to deselect the item, and the map zooms out.

If you have any 2nd-generation AirTags, they appear only on devices updated to at least version 26.2.1 of Apple’s operating systems.

Ultrawideband (UWB) can be used for short-range finding, which Apple calls Precision Finding. (See AirTag 2 vs AirTag for the explanation of UWB.) A Find button with a Nearby label beneath it appears as an option if you have an iPhone 11 or later and you are trying to find an AirTag that’s nearby. It can also be used—in a more complicated manner—with certain Apple Watch models; see below. Precision Finding works with your own Find My items and any that other people have shared with you.

Tap Find and Find My pops up a wayfinding mechanism that tries to detect, range, and point to the item. Apple doesn’t provide details about the distance over which they expect Precision Finding to function. However, in my testing and that of many others, you typically start seeing a signal connection display within about 30 feet (10 meters). As you get within about 10 to 15 feet (3 to 4.5 m), a proximity indicator shows distance and direction.

That’s the baseline capability with a 1st-generation AirTag or either generation of AirTag with an iPhone that has a 1st-generation UWB chip. Apple upgraded UWB with a 2nd-generation chip in the 2nd-generation AirTag and in the iPhone 17 series, the iPhone Air, the Apple Watch Ultra 3, and the Apple Watch Series 11. A 2nd-generation AirTag and any of these devices should see about 50% greater range, according to Apple.

If your device has haptic feedback and it’s enabled, an iPhone vibrates more or less strongly as you lock onto the correct direction and come closer. You can tap the speaker button to briefly play a sound from the AirTag to aid in finding it.

When you’re adjacent to the item, Find My replaces the distance with the label “here” (yes, in lowercase), and shows a 3D rotating image of the item at the center of the display.

Why it says More Light Required

If you use Precision Finding when it’s dark around you, Find My might show the error “More Light Required.” It’s not that UWB requires light. Rather, it appears Apple uses some camera and sensor inputs to help orient your iPhone relative to an AirTag or AirPods Pro (2nd generation) charging case. You can tap the Flashlight button to help.

UWB is not available at all in 10 countries. Indonesia and Nepal allow its use only with items and devices that have the 2nd-generation UWB chip: the 2nd-generation AirTag, the iPhone 17 series, the iPhone Air, the Apple Watch Series 11, the Apple Watch Ultra 3, and the MagSafe Charging Case for AirPods Pro 3.

Precision Finding on an Apple Watch

Apple built a 1st-generation UWB chip into the Apple Watch starting with the Apple Watch Series 9 and the Apple Watch Ultra 2. But Apple didn’t enable Precision Finding until watchOS 26.2.1, and limited it to Apple Watch models with a 2nd-generation UWB chip: the Apple Watch Ultra 3 and the Apple Watch Series 11, as noted above.

Further, you don’t use Find Items for Precision Finding. Perhaps due to its late addition, Precision Finding can be used only via the Apple Watch Control Center. Press the side button to reveal Control Center, and scroll down to Edit and tap it. Tap the plus button, and any available AirTag appears. Tap to add it. Return to the Control Center when you want to use Precision Finding with that AirTag.

As you turn towards the AirTag, the display lights up green, indicating you’re getting warmer. If the item moves while you’re trying to find it, Find My shows a diffuse display indicating it’s in motion.

What else an item’s sheet offers

Select an item in the list and view its sheet of actions. Many of the actions are the same as for devices; here are the exceptions:

  • Share AirTag: Share or manage sharing of an AirTag. See how to share an AirTag with someone else. (For AirTags shared with you, a Shared AirTag label appears.)
  • Change Name and Emoji/Rename Item: On an iPhone or iPad, this option lets you change the item’s name, required because all items lack a display or interface. You can also change the emoji.
  • Find: When using the Find My app on any iPhone 11 series phone or later with an AirTag and the item is within a short distance, Directions is replaced with Find.
  • Serial number and other details: You can obtain the serial number of a Find My item in one of two ways when viewing its sheet of actions:

— AirTag: On an iPhone or iPad, tap the name area, and the serial number (and firmware release) appear.

— Find My item: On the sheet shown on an iPhone, iPad, or Mac, scroll or swipe down to see a panel of information, including the manufacturer’s name, the item’s model, serial number, and firmware version.

— Apple Watch: Select the item, scroll down, and tap Show Details for either an AirTag or Find My item.

Tags: Find My, iOS

AirTags, third-party items, and associated accessories can be used in a lot of ways, some of them more obvious than others. Clearly, you might add them to a keychain (AirTags require a keychain holder), or zip them into the pocket of a purse, messenger bag, backpack, or luggage.

Less obvious might be placing them in an interior pocket of a jacket, sewing them into clothing, or putting one in a saddle bag on your bicycle—or on a pet’s collar.

Apple differentiates between hardware that can use both the Find My Device options and Find My network and those, like AirTags, that can only use Find My network. The former, like Macs, iPads, and audio hardware, Apple always calls devices; the latter, items.

An AirTag is a powerful piece of always-on, always-broadcasting technology that can help you in four distinct ways:

  • Track stuff you lose: If you routinely can’t find things, I would urge you to not be ashamed of it. All brains are different and, as I’ve learned from my wife—an ADHD/executive-function coach—some people are not wired to retain the location of objects. Hurray, technology can help!
  • Track stuff that gets stolen: A sad fact of existence across all societies and in nature is that organisms steal from one another. If you’re concerned about theft or have been a victim of it, a Find My item can sometimes help with recovery.
  • Tracking kids: Parents definitely overestimate the risk of a child being abducted by a stranger. But the number of children who go “missing” for an hour or a few hours is huge. They might take the wrong bus, get lost, or actually be perfectly safe with a family friend, relative, parent, or guardian other than the one who is legally responsible. Putting a tracking tag in a kid’s backpack or clothing may alleviate worries and reduce anxiety.
  • Tracking animals: Those who have pets know they roam. Sometimes, we’re just curious where they get to. Other times, we need to rescue them when they’re stuck or lost. Except in quite rural areas, a lost or wayward pet is almost always quite near an Apple device possessed by people passing nearby.

Do not track adults

Tracking a child can be fraught with issues of agency, consent, and purpose, but it’s generally legal (this is not legal advice) and may be advisable. For adults, however, it’s nearly always unwarranted and unwelcome, and may violate civil statutes and constitute a crime unless one is in a guardianship relationship with the person (again, this is not legal advice). See how to check whether someone is tracking you for more on how Find My items can be misused.

Keys, wallets and small things

For items like keychains, wallets, and even non-Apple mobile devices like gaming consoles or Kindles, adding a Find My item can mean the difference between tearing your hair out while never finding something and easily recovering it.

Apple offers AirTag cases with key rings and other attachments from third parties at their online and retail stores, but there are many more, including those with built-in carabiners (and some of those with combination locks).

You might also consider a third-party Find My item that’s designed for attachment or fitting in a wallet. Many companies now make thin, wallet-sized trackers (3.35 by 2.1 inches or 85 by 54 mm), several of which can be wirelessly recharged using a Qi charger.

You can also “roll your own” solution. For an expensive pair of headphones one of my kids purchased and used away from the house, I attached a Chipolo ONE Spot: it’s thin, circular, matte, and flat—no bulge, unlike an AirTag. It blended in nearly invisibly with the headphones. We tested its weight by first attaching it with painter’s tape to wear around the house.

We paired it with their iPhone, and I attached it with an absurdly strong but removable acrylic adhesive film (3M’s 468MP). The ONE Spot has a remarkably similar black tint to the headphones, too.

Bags and luggage

We carry our lives in our purses, fanny packs/bum bags, messenger bags, and luggage. And they’re danged easy to lose, get stolen, or have an airport fling into the outer darkness, never to be seen again.

A Find My item is a chef’s-kiss match for bags. There are many ways to insert an AirTag or other item into a bag. Many AirTag cases are designed to snap onto, wrap around, or clip onto bag straps. Some even have adhesive to glue them inside a hidden area of your bag.

Even within an airport, the density of people with Apple devices and the precision of the Find My network can help you track down your luggage among thousands mounded all around you.

I started putting AirTags and Find My items in all my checked and carry-on bags—even in my wallet—when I resumed air travel in 2022. It’s worked like a charm. My family now uses about 15 AirTags across all our luggage and carry-on bags—and three trombones.

Starting in iOS 18.2/iPadOS 18.2 and macOS 15.2 Sequoia, you can opt to share a secure link that will allow them to track your item for up to seven days or until found. Apple added this to help airlines and other people recover your lost stuff that has a tracker in it. (See how to share an AirTag with someone else.)

Using iOS 26 and iPadOS 26 or later, you can add baggage to an airline flight record, so that you can see your tracked luggage at a glance. See how to track lost luggage with an AirTag.

Cars

A Find My item in a car won’t readily deter thieves because an item that’s separated from your paired device for any period of time or that travels with someone—i.e., thieves who have stolen your car—will alert a nearby iPhone, iPad, or Android device (see what an “AirTag Found Moving With You” alert means).

However, if you frequently have to park your car in different places in your neighborhood, in garages, or around work, using Find My can be a nice adjunct to dropping a pin in Maps.

My wife, who is savvy about privacy issues, opted to put an AirTag in the car she drives most often of our two after losing track of it in a badly designed, discontinuous, multi-part garage—with multiple identical-looking entrances to different subterranean floors. (I’ve lost my car in the same facility.) She was reassured by Apple’s security and privacy protocols with Find My items.

When someone else drives the car when you’re not in it, they would normally receive alerts about an AirTag moving with them. You can avoid that alert, however, by sharing the Find My item. You can share access to a Find My item with up to five other people; see how to share an AirTag. Everyone with shared access to a Find My item is treated like the owner: they don’t receive safety alerts and can track it.

Bikes

About 100 million bikes are in people’s homes in the United States, and a few tens of millions of people ride regularly. Annual thefts range from 150,000 (reported) to 2,000,000 (estimated). If you live in a high-theft area for bikes, the odds could be 5% or more that your bike will be stolen at some point across years of public use.

You can hide an AirTag in a lot of places on a bike—though I wouldn’t recommend it inside a bike, as the metal would prevent effective radio-signal transmission. I suggest an Elevation Lab TagVault: Bike. It’s a case that screws into a standard water-bottle cage mount. You can screw a cage in or use it by itself. It’s not obtrusive, and a thief might be unaware that it’s a tracker at all.

The Knog Scout is a hybrid option. It’s a Find My device that also offers Bluetooth-based alarm arming. Attached beneath a water bottle cage, you can use Find My to track it like any other item, and you can also arm it when within Bluetooth range to trigger a loud alarm. If you’re within range when the alarm goes off, you’re notified, too.

I got a deal on an Aventon e-bike several months ago, and—besides its excellent range and price—one of its selling points is a built-in GPS and cellular tracker. Even more remarkably, the first year is free, and subsequent years cost $20.

However, the Aventon tracker pushes the bike’s most recent location to your paired e-bike app only when the bike is powered down. You can activate Lost Mode, which then triggers location pings even when the bike is “off,” disabling the electric-motor assist, locking the bike’s rear wheel, and displaying an error code.

That’s all great, and I have insured the bike. But I also installed an AirTag using the Elevation Lab case. This gives me the best of both worlds: using an AirTag that’s difficult to remove, I can actively track the bike at any given time; if it’s stolen, I can engage the Aventon system to improve my odds of finding it or getting it back if a thief pries off the AirTag case.

Things that get wet

Depending on your item, you may need to consider whether it’s water-resistant—especially if it’s likely to be exposed to rain or even dunked. For portable items, here’s an incomplete selection of ratings:

  • AirTags (2021 and 2026 models) have a rating of IP67, offering protection against water intrusion from sprays, rain, and high-pressure water jets. They can also survive immersion in water up to 3.3 feet (one meter) deep for up to 30 minutes.
  • ElevationLab offers what it calls a “waterproof” TagVault in keychain and pet-collar attachment versions of AirTags. It doesn’t disclose an IP rating, but I tested one in a glass of water for several minutes with no ill effects.
  • The Chipolo ONE Spot tracker has an IPX5 rating, or resistance from water up through low-pressure water jets or sprays. The Pebblebee Clip 5 tracker is even better at IP66, which protects against high-pressure jets. Neither protects against immersion.
Tags: Find My, iOS

We are all fallible, and the way of all flesh is to age—and sometimes we forget things. I can’t tell you how many times I have “forgotten” a password because I try to remember it, but fortunately I then try to use my fingers to type it, and they “remember” it for me.

If you can’t log in to your main account on your Mac because the password isn’t accepted, you have several options.

Resetting your password on a Mac locks your login keychain, because it’s permanently locked to the account password; see how the Mac keychain works. As a result, you will lose access to locally stored entries, and may have to reset or create a new login keychain manually.

If you forgot the password, try another account

Is there another account you’ve created and can log in to, or another user on the Mac with administrator access? Log in to that administrator account, then go to System Settings > Users & Groups and unlock the pane.

Select your locked-out account and click Reset Password. Now enter and verify the password, adding a hint if you want, and click Change Password. Log out, or use Fast User Switching, then log in to your account with that password.

Reset with the FileVault Recovery Key

FileVault recovery begins when you power on or restart your computer (see how to turn on FileVault). The process takes place using Recovery Assistant. Here’s what to do:

“Apple Account or recovery key” means something different starting in Tahoe than it used to. With Tahoe and Golden Gate, you can either enter the recovery key directly after restarting, or use another of your devices that is also logged in to the same Apple Account to retrieve the recovery key from Passwords. You can no longer use an Apple Account to trigger a macOS password reset if FileVault is enabled.

  1. Go to the login window. To get there, restart your Mac or choose Apple menu > Log Out Account Name.
  2. In the login window, select an account if one isn’t already selected. Then click the question-mark button to the right of the password field.
  3. Click the right-pointing arrow button to restart.
  4. After your Mac restarts, you see the Reset Password utility as the primary screen. This is a special restart mode that doesn’t let you exit into macOS Recovery. Enter your Recovery Key — you can type it in lowercase without dashes, and the utility adds them — then click Next.
  5. If accepted, you’re asked to enter a new password with a hint, and then verify it. Click Reset Password and Verify Password.
  6. Your Mac restarts. Log in with your account and the new password.

If you have upgraded to Tahoe through version 26.3 and have your FileVault Recovery Key stored in your iCloud account, I recommend resetting the key to provide better access to it across your devices, among other advantages. See where to find your FileVault Recovery Key. If you’ve updated to 26.4 or Golden Gate, Apple already made you do this!

Reset via Activation Lock

On Macs with a Secure Enclave coprocessor without FileVault enabled, you can use your Apple Account to reset your password through Activation Lock. Here’s how:

  1. Follow steps 1 to 3 above.
  2. Your Mac restarts and displays an Activation Lock login, showing part of your associated Apple Account. Enter your account name, click Next, then enter the password and click Next.
  3. If successful, a screen appears that notes “Authentication succeeded.” If not, work through the first three steps again.
  4. Click Exit to Recovery Utilities.
  5. Choose Utilities > Terminal.
  6. Type resetpassword and press Return. This opens the Reset Password utility.
  7. Select “I forgot my password” and click Next.
  8. Create a new password as above: enter, verify, and add a hint. Click Reset Password. Your Mac restarts.
  9. Log in with your account and the new password.

This process is also how you reactivate a Mac if it’s been set as lost in Find My.

Reset from recovery mode

There’s a command-line password reset utility available in recovery mode, also, which you can use without having to know the administrator password. Here’s how to reset your password on an Apple silicon Mac:

  1. Choose Apple menu > Shut Down. When your Mac has powered down, hold the power button until you see a prompt that says “Loading startup options.”
  2. Click Options.
  3. Click “Forgot all passwords?”
  4. Choose Utilities > Terminal.
  5. Type resetpassword and press Return. This opens the Reset Password utility, but without the prompt for a Recovery Key.
  6. Select “I forgot my password” and click Next.
  7. Create a new password as above: enter, verify, and add a hint. Click Reset Password. Your Mac restarts.
  8. Log in with your account and the new password.

Pairing an AirTag is remarkably simple. Here’s how.

Set up an AirTag

  1. Unwrap the plastic around the AirTag and then pull the connected strip that’s part of it, preventing the battery from touching the internal contacts. The AirTag makes a “tweetle” sound (something like “tuh TWEE tuh WEE dull”).
  2. Hold a 2nd-generation AirTag close to an iPhone or iPad with iOS 26.2.1/iPadOS 26.2.1 or later installed; a first-generation AirTag can be held near an iPhone or iPad with iOS 14.5/iPadOS 14.5 or later. The device recognizes an unpaired AirTag using NFC.
  3. This prompts the phone to display a connection dialog. Tap Connect.
  4. You can then name it and assign an emoji, from a preset list or a custom one.
  5. Once the AirTag is paired, Apple warns you about its appropriate use and potential legal consequences. Tap Agree.
  6. Apple provides a summary of details about the item and actions you can take.
  7. Tap View in Find My App, or Done, to finish. Third-party items show a slightly different list here.

Before you ask: No, there’s no way to pair a 2nd-generation AirTag with a device that isn’t running those minimum versions of iOS 26/iPadOS 26.

Change the name or emoji of an AirTag

  1. Go to the Find My app 656662b1-6b5c-469e-9d04-915022f44dae on your iPhone.
  2. Tap Items b44f9563-4315-48bf-8490-64ca27d3e29c, tap the AirTag whose name or emoji you want to change, then tap the More button.
  3. Tap “Change Name and Emoji.”
  4. Choose a name from the list or choose Custom Name to type a name and select an emoji.
  5. Tap the Done button.

View more details about an AirTag

After you add an AirTag to your Apple Account, you can view more details about it in the Find My app.

  1. Go to the Find My app 656662b1-6b5c-469e-9d04-915022f44dae on your iPhone.
  2. Tap Items b44f9563-4315-48bf-8490-64ca27d3e29c, tap the AirTag you want to see more details about, then tap the More button.
  3. Tap the address of the AirTag to see the model, serial number, and the firmware version.

If the battery level is low, a message appears below the location of the AirTag. You can also see a low battery indicator next to the name of the AirTag in the Items list.

If the AirTag isn’t automatically recognized, tap the plus button in the upper-right corner of the People, Devices, or Items list at the bottom of the screen and tap Add AirTag.

The warning about being linked to your Apple Account is pertinent, as Apple doesn’t consider illegal use of an AirTag as something that it preserves user privacy over. See how Apple and Google detect an unwanted AirTag.

The limit is 32 items

Apple limits you to having access to 32 items in Find My, which includes both the ones you’ve paired and items shared by others. However, that limit is lower than it appears because earbud versions of AirPods count as two or more items. The AirPods and AirPods Pro 1 count as two; AirPods Pro 2 and later count as three. (It still seems unlikely most people will surpass 32.) While AirPods and Beats hardware show up in the Devices tab, they’re items at heart; see how to find a lost iPhone, Mac or AirPods.